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SBPatt

June Flies From the Vise

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Waste Basket Muddler

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Unpacked the tying kit after extended road trip; everything here came from scraps in the trash collector except the hook and deer hair so the color scheme is a bit off.

hook - WFC Model 6 #6
thread - Uni 6/0 tan 
tag - medium tinsel holo copper
rib - small wire copper
body - Ice Dub Hare’s Ear
body hackle - badger 
shoulder - chukar dyed golden olive (2 Tsp Rit Golden Yellow, 1/4 Tsp Rit Camel/2 cups water)
collar/head - deer hair

Regards,
Scott

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Rivergod Emerger - This mayfly emerger pattern was first tied by Dennis Potter from Grand Rapids in 1985.  The below pictured pattern is a PMD, but this can be tied in other colors to match the hatch.

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Hook - TMC 100, 12-20 or TMC 2488, 22-24

Thread - to match insect

Tail - wood duck flank fibers

Shuck - Hi-Vis Wing material, tied 2/3rds length of tail (gold antron used)

Abdomen - for size 16 or smaller use tying thread, for larger sizes use dry fly dubbing

Wing - dark Z-lon (grey antron used here)

Thorax - dry fly dubbing, 1 turn behind wing then rest tied for thorax

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Charlie Craven's Fat Angie.

Hook: Dai Ichi 1167 size 18

Thread: Red Uni 8-0

Foam: 2mm black

Abdomen/Thorax: Rusty brown Superfine

Legs: Black round rubber

Wing: Tan macramé yarn and UV blue Ice ripple fiber

Hackle: Dark barred ginger (cause that's what I had handy)

 

fatangie.jpg

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Tak's Split Wing Caddis. Rick Takahashi pattern. He tied one for me at a show a while back.

Hook: U203

Thread: Olive 8/0 Uni

Tail: Amber antron tied sparsely

Abdomen/Thorax: Caddis green superfine

Wing: Premium yearling elk tied sparsely.

Cut out the middle of the wing.

 

 

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3 hours ago, chugbug27 said:

Nice stuff there Michael. 

Thank you sir. Appreciate it.

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Yellow Muddler

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The partridge is a bit short for the shoulder.

hook - WFC Model 6 #6
thread - UTC 140 
tag - Orvis saltwater fluoro orange/resin
rib - small wire copper
body - Ice Dub Orange
body hackle - grizzly dyed yellow (1 Tbs Rit Golden Yellow/1 cup water)
shoulder - partridge dyed yellow
collar/head - pronghorn dyed yellow

Regards,
Scott

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Robber Fly - This "Michigan" dry pattern was actually first tied by a Pennsylvanian!  Chauncy Lively first tied this fly in 1967 to represent the non-aquatic dipteran robber flies he saw while fishing on the south branch of the Au Sable River.  Mr. Lively spent summers in Michigan at the time though he did eventually move to Michigan in 1974.  Fish this fly the same way you'd fish any hopper pattern - near weeds near the shore.  The robber fly is a predacious insect that hunts and feeds on other insects and can be found sitting on the water.

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Hook - standard dry, 14

Thread - tan - for abdomen, black - for the rest of the fly

Tail/Abdomen - greyish tan deer hair, tied extended and a little thicker than a wooden matchstick with a tan thread crisscross

Body/Thorax - peacock herl

Wings - deer hair, divided and tied down delta style

Hackle - brown and grizzly, mixed

 

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Here is a good baby tarpon fly- Drew Chicone's Snake Fly variant that he calls "The Devil's Daughter". 

Pattern was found in his great resource book, "Feather Brain". 

Daiichi 2546 Size 1/0
Tail- Ostrich Herl and Peacock
Body- Marabou Plumes
Head- Deer Body Hair Mixed with Peacock Herl. 

In the water, the peacock "glows" an orange color. 

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That baby tarpon fly will work... I've just tied up a few bugs for baby tarpon as well (these babies are in the one to ten pound category.... ) and everyone I've worked up is white in color... I'll have to take a few pics and post them up.  We did pretty well with them the other day for both small tarpon and small snook... 

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Rockhopper - A pattern developed by Al Rockwood back in 1938 when he was 16 years old.  Al went on to become a well-known professional tyer later in his life.  This pre-WWII pattern uses kapok, a popular tying material that became quite scarce during the war and is now coming back in favor, so if you are looking for pattern to use some of your new supply, this is a good one to try.  NOTE:  The preferred method to apply kapok is by using the split thread dubbing method as kapok is a great floating material BUT it is to short for a noodle dub and a dubbing loop tends to add unnecessary bulk.

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Hook - Mustad 98431, 8-14

Thread - yellow

Body - kapok   NOTE:  Pre-WWII kapok ONLY came in its natural color as this material was next to impossible to dye.  One reason the new material has become popular is that they have a                                         new dying process that will take.  Try a color or two that will best imitate the hoppers in your area.

Underwing - black calftail

Top Wing - turkey, the 2 quills to be treated with Fleximent or an art spray fixative and tied on both sides of the underwing

Hackle - brown and grizzly, mixed

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Copper Muddler

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General attractor; could possibly pass as an October Caddis

hook - WFC Model 6 #6
thread - Uni 6/0 fire orange 
tag - Orvis saltwater fluoro orange/resin
rib - small wire copper
body - Starburst dubbing copper
body hackle - grizzly dyed copper olive (2 Tsp Rit Golden Yellow, 1/4Tsp Rit Camel/1 cup water)
shoulder - chukar dyed copper olive
collar/head - pronghorn dyed brown (1 Tbs Rit Golden Yellow, 1/4 Tsp Rit Dark Brown/1 cup water)

Regards,
Scott

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8 hours ago, Capt Bob LeMay said:

That baby tarpon fly will work... I've just tied up a few bugs for baby tarpon as well (these babies are in the one to ten pound category.... ) and everyone I've worked up is white in color... I'll have to take a few pics and post them up.  We did pretty well with them the other day for both small tarpon and small snook... 

Yea I tend to have way more white/lighter baitfish patterns- but I needed something for those low light days for higher contrast. We shall see- would love to see some of your flies

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