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i did the whole cloves in each bag

i was at walmart this morning looking for a dog flea collar and they were all under lock and key. i am surprised there wasnt an armed guard near the cabinet

water-gun-b4222ede-205b-49bd-8420-226a0a

i didnt buy one 

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I use the cycle freezing method below:

https://globalflyfisher.com/tie-better/cleaning-fly-tying-material

"Until proven otherwise, any new material to a collection is to be considered contaminated - no matter what the source.

  1. Until proven otherwise, a room of tying materials is contaminated by "bugs" - always be on the lookout.
  2. Some bug killers are carciciogenic, so take care in handling and avoid prolonged breathing.
  3. Microwawing cannot be depended on to kill eggs, larvae and/or adults.
  4. Freezing will kill larvae and adults but cannot be depended upon to kill eggs.
  5. To kill, commercial bug sprays can be sprayed/poured onto a rag which is then sealed in a container with buggy materials. Again, this may not kill all eggs. After this process, wash the material to remove the insecticide
  6. If moth crystals are used, seal them with the material
    1. This fumigates the material
    2. It reduces fumes in the storage area.
    3. Reduces waste of crystals (slows evaporation).
    4. Pararadichlorobenzene kills, naphthalene deters.
  7. Specifically for vanegated Carpet Beeles, a way to kill them is to cycle them. Their hatching is cyclic over a period ot about 30-45 days. Place the material into a plastic bag in the freezer for overnight. Then bring the material out and place in a room temperature, dark location for 30-45 days Again place the material back into the freezer. Another solution is to periodically open up the entire room to extremes of hot or cold. For instance during the heat of summer or cold of winter open the window to the room that your tying materials are in. These bugs do not tolerate extremes of hot or cold. Prepare the room accordingly so that nothing is damaged by these extreme climate changes, such as moisture on furniture, etc."

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34 minutes ago, SilverCreek said:

I use the cycle freezing method below:

https://globalflyfisher.com/tie-better/cleaning-fly-tying-material

"Until proven otherwise, any new material to a collection is to be considered contaminated - no matter what the source.

  1. Until proven otherwise, a room of tying materials is contaminated by "bugs" - always be on the lookout.
  2. Some bug killers are carciciogenic, so take care in handling and avoid prolonged breathing.
  3. Microwawing cannot be depended on to kill eggs, larvae and/or adults.
  4. Freezing will kill larvae and adults but cannot be depended upon to kill eggs.
  5. To kill, commercial bug sprays can be sprayed/poured onto a rag which is then sealed in a container with buggy materials. Again, this may not kill all eggs. After this process, wash the material to remove the insecticide
  6. If moth crystals are used, seal them with the material
    1. This fumigates the material
    2. It reduces fumes in the storage area.
    3. Reduces waste of crystals (slows evaporation).
    4. Pararadichlorobenzene kills, naphthalene deters.
  7. Specifically for vanegated Carpet Beeles, a way to kill them is to cycle them. Their hatching is cyclic over a period ot about 30-45 days. Place the material into a plastic bag in the freezer for overnight. Then bring the material out and place in a room temperature, dark location for 30-45 days Again place the material back into the freezer. Another solution is to periodically open up the entire room to extremes of hot or cold. For instance during the heat of summer or cold of winter open the window to the room that your tying materials are in. These bugs do not tolerate extremes of hot or cold. Prepare the room accordingly so that nothing is damaged by these extreme climate changes, such as moisture on furniture, etc."

Very well said SilverCreek!! I would also add I use Hot Shot no pest strips. They come in strips about 9" x 3" which I cut into 1" x 1.5" pieces and put them into sealed containers with the materials. They last approximately 3 months and they KILL EVERYTHING at all stages. Just be sure to carefully follow instructions, use rubber or vinyl gloves then wash hands thoroughly.

Good luck!!!

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One other thing...Cloves and or clove oil are effective insect repellents, but they kill nothing.

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15 hours ago, Gene L said:

Not many insects eat feathers.  Moths do and so do carpet beetles, which would be my guess.  I put mothballs in with my feathers to ward off evil.

I thought one used garlic for that.👿

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i NEVER said or intended for whole cloves to KILL any bugs i found in my hackle bags

if anything, my tying room smells like grandmas baked ham rather than grandmas stinky moth ball attic

6H5A5952.ham_-768x568.jpg

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17 hours ago, SalarMan said:

One other thing...Cloves and or clove oil are effective insect repellents, but they kill nothing.

Good point. 

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19 minutes ago, DarrellP said:

I would rather have moths than moth balls.

Is that moth balls...or moth's balls? HA HA HA 

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28 minutes ago, SalarMan said:

Is that moth balls...or moth's balls? HA HA HA 

Both!

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2 hours ago, DarrellP said:

I would rather have moths than moth balls.

A couple of years ago the hackle guy Charlie Collins was a guest speaker at my fly tying club. During his Q&A session he was asked about protecting his product for both his business and what he recommended for tyers and their materials. The answer...paradichlorobenzene crystals or balls. He had used this for many years with no ill effects, and I have done the same for quite some time...again with no ill effects. My material containers all seal TIGHT and I detect no odor when I walk into my office/tying room.

I believe the key is common sense safe handling and those tightly sealed containers. Quarantine any new materials with those crystals/balls for 30 days...no matter the source. With 50+ years of tying behind me, never a bug...period!!

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