Head Cement - Some Casual Research

[DrLogik 0]

I recently did some casual research on various head "coatings" (as not all were "Head cement") on heavy cardboard. The cardboard was the back of one of the TU note pads we get each year. I thought that fitting.

I wanted to see which ones actually penetrated and which ones remained on the surface only. They were a wide range of coatings, some solvent-based and others water based and one that was denatured alcohol based. Most results I got were expected but I did get a couple of surprises.

They had to leave a sheen/shine on the surface but they also had to penetrate through the cardboard. Of the 11 different coatings, only 4 penetrated. Of those 4, only one left a sheen on the surface - shiny actually. Plus one more that partially penetrated and left a shine. Two penetrated and did not leave a shine. Those two were Fly-Tite and Pharmacist Formula.

Guess what, the one that had the sheen and penetrated isn't head cement and neither was the one that partially penetrated! The winner? Sally Hansen's! I was not really expecting that. I may post the results on my web site and post the link.

The one that partially penetrated and left a shine was.............. New Skin! Yep, that liquid wound covering stuff....and it's flexible too! and to a degree waterproof.

The other surprise was Cellire. It left a very shiny surface but did not penetrate at all.

I don't think people that are users of Sally Hansen need vindication but I have to admit that I never really liked the stuff. I mean, it's nail polish. I'm starting to change my mind.

[niveker 0]

Interesting.  Thanks for posting.  I can't remember what I used to use before Sally's, but I much prefer Sally's.  

[vicrider 0]

So, the one everyone laughs about using is the one better than all the overpriced formulas (formulae) developed just for us fly fishermen. I wonder though, did you try any of the UV formulas in your experiment? They definitely leave a hard glossy finish on the head, especially nice on streamers, but I doubt they penetrate at all and when they chip the threads are just exposed. Since thread coming apart is a very small problem even without a glue I like the UV on streamer heads. On other flies I just use a super glue dabbed on the threads on the last 1/2" before I pull the whip finish tight. I think I will put Sally Hansen's on the list for pickup though. Used to use but ran out or wife stole it.

[Heff2 0]

Interesting. @DrLogik You definitely missed an opportunity to drop a “in this case” when delivering the winner.  

I do want something thinner than sally hensen’s at times I’m sure acetone would work thin it, I just haven’t bothered and stick to thinned wapsi glossy. 

I did prefer using bone dry UV to head cement but I found I had an allergic reaction to it, mild but I still put it away.  Was gonna use it tying outside but lucky my brain worked that day and realized the issue with that.  

[DrLogik 0]

Heff2,

From what I read Sally Hansen has a combination of solvents.  "They" recommend their own thinner, can't recall the name but it's not rocket science.  I would think any nail polish thinner would work.  I'm not sure I would use polish remover though. Is it different than the thinner?  I don't know.   In the scheme of things it's probably cheap to use.

[cebe 0]

I have to ask, which Sally Hansens product did you use? I looke dat the drug store and there were six or more types of SH products.

[Heff2 0]

In this case, Sally Hensen’s Hard as Nails 

 

[DrLogik 0]

Hard as Nails, the clear bottle that is kind of plain-jane looking, not feminine like the other bottles.

[DrLogik 0]

Quote

did you try any of the UV formulas in your experiment?

Vicrider,

No, I didn't.  I use the UV once in a while and you're right, it just kind of sits on top of the threads.  Solarez is what I use and they have a real runny formula for fly tyers.  I might test that now that you mention it.  I'm thinking it won't soak through though. It doesn't have a solvent carrier, but who knows.  Good call-out.

 

[Capt Bob LeMay 0]

I'll use Sally Hansens occasionally for bonefish bugs - but only after a light treatment with thin CA glue (Krazy Glue... the cheap stuff from any drug store..). it will be labeled "original formula".  Super penetrating, locks up hard enough that you'll be needing a new single edge razor blade to remove it.  The downside is that you have to be very careful to use only a tiny amount since it will be drawn up into nearby materials if you're using too much.  I used to tell my students when I was teaching or doing fly tying demos to first squeeze out a tiny amount off the tip -then touch it wherever needed... No, it does not leave a shiny finish at all - so for presentation purposes I'll follow it up with Hard as Nails (Sally Hansen).... Hope this helps - it will also seal up a thread head which is needed if you intend to paint on eyes on top of thread... Here's a pic or two... 

for coating a thread head I use it like a tiny paintbrush - just enough to wet the surface of the thread...

You must seal the thread first, allow it to dry - then you can paint on the eyes... this is my version of Flip Pallot's famous Prince of Tides pattern

a tiny drop on the whipped finish of each palmered collar on these SpeedBugs is all I ever do to complete them.  The stand that tube of Krazy Glue is in?  Nothing more than the plastic end cap that covers the ends of bicycle axles to prevent them from poking through each cardboard box they come in... That same Krazy Glue is also what secured each soft foam popper head to the hook before tying the tail in place - but that's another story... 

[flytire 0]

I'm a fan of Solarez bone dry uv resin. I think it is thin enough to penetrate a couple of layers of thread but not enough to get to the hook shank

I will also on occasion use super glue on the thread and then wrap the head

[SalarMan 0]

Compliments of flytire, I am a fan of Solarez Bone Dry.

I recently posted a Claret Scott on the site in the classic salmon fly forum. I was not happy with the wing and decided to remove it and try again. Gently/carefully cutting through the head was like cutting through concrete. That stuff makes for one tough fly and I know it would be a fly that would be VERY durable for fishing. It is so good it really doesn't need to penetrate more than a layer or 2 of thread.

I've tried them all over the years and the Bone Dry is tops on my list for strength and finish.

[Poopdeck 0]

Most times I don’t use any glue because I’m not overly concerned about durability or how it looks to my eye. When I do I use SHHAN simply because of its wide spread availability. I can grab a bottle at will at any pharmacy or grocery store I walk into. Glad to know that it tested out well so thanks for your casual observations. 

[Gene L 0]

23 hours ago, DrLogik said:

Heff2,

From what I read Sally Hansen has a combination of solvents.  "They" recommend their own thinner, can't recall the name but it's not rocket science.  I would think any nail polish thinner would work.  I'm not sure I would use polish remover though. Is it different than the thinner?  I don't know.   In the scheme of things it's probably cheap to use.

Don't do what I did, which is to buy in haste nail polish remover (thinner) containing no acetone.  It didn't work when mixed with acetone; left a disgusting mess.  Better off using acetone on laquer.

[Capt Bob LeMay 0]

Here's a trick that's served me well when I was using large amounts of Sally Hansens and the stuff thickened enough to be nearly unusable... I simply bought a second bottle, poured half of the new finish into the old bottle, and saved the remaining new finish carefully sealed to repeat the process when needed a month or two down the road.  The addition of the new finish into the old bottle, when shaken thoroughly, was the perfect thinner.  I had tried lacquer thinner and acetone as thinners with bad results... this was a pretty good solution instead of just tossing the old bottle when it was no longer usable..