The problem with high-grade capes

[SilverCreek 0]

I made a post many years ago on buying and grading hackle. It is not longer available so I cannot link to it, Here is what is what I wrote:

 

1. You must know what patterns you actually use enough of, so that tyeing your own would save you the most money.

2. Then you must decide what sizes of those patterns you use enough of, that tyeing your own would save you the most money.

Once you know that, you will know what kind of hackle to buy.

For example, I use parachute dry flies much more often than the Catskill type of dry flies. Most mayflies that I fish are size 12-16. I also have some midge patterns like Griffith's Gnat. Size 14 to 16 are the sizes I use most often so I can use the same hackle for my parachutes.

Saddles will tie 3 sizes of flies. Most of the hackle will be one size with some that are 1 size larger and 1 size smaller. Therefore a saddle that is centered on size 14 will have mostly size 14 with some size 12 and some size 16. 

So I buy size 14 saddles in the colors for the dry flies I want to tie.

Since the parachute hackle on dry flies DO NOT represent the wings of the mayfly, you can even tie a fly that is larger or smaller than the size you should use if you just need a few flies our of the size range of the hackle and don't want to buy the proper size.

Then there is the quality of the hackle to consider. It used to be that hackle came in grade 1,2, and 3 with grade 1 being the best and most expensive. Now there is "Platinum, Gold, Silver, and Bronze" as the top grades for Whiting hackle and below that is the "Pro grade".

I buy the Pro grade hackle. I have tied for over 40 years and I know how to grade hackle. Hackle graders have to work fast and they make mistakes.

Sometimes they overgrade hackle and sometimes they under grade hackle. So I try to find the hackle that is undergraded so I get even more of a bargain like a bronze saddle for the cost of a pro grade saddle.

Here is a crash course on grading hackle. In 50 years of fly tying I've seen a lot of hackle. It pays to learn how to "grade" hackle and I think anyone can learn to do it.

Grading hackle is a matter of actually taking the necks and saddles out of the package and inspecting them for barb length, barb density, and whether the stems will twist when wrapped, etc.

I always take a white lined 3x5 index card with me. I use white unlined side as a background when I spread the hackle feather to gauge the hackle length and quality. A white background really helps as does a pair of reading glasses for magnification. It helps me see any subtle irregularity in the hackle like curved tips.

The lined side of the 3x5 card can be used by beginners for measuring hackle sizes by placing marker vertical lines on the horizontal lines of the card for the hooks you actually use. Place the hooks on the horizontal lines on the card and mark and label the sizes. Then you will have a hook gauge that is customized for your own hooks.

You can also use this gauge for choosing which hackle to pull of the neck or saddle to use when tying.

Without removing the feather from the neck, bend individual feathers into an arc and compare the length of the individual hackle fibers against the 3x5” white card or home made hackle gauge. I don’t need a gauge but a beginner should use one. Measure the feathers at the top (narrowest) portion of the neck to see what the smallest fly can be tied. Also estimate the number of those feathers on the the neck.

Better hackles have minimal webbing at the base. You don't want to use that portion of the hackle which has over 20-25% of its length taken up by webbing so only that portion of the feather that has less than this is useable. So grade the neck by the length of the USEABLE hackle and not the gross feather length.

Note also the density of hackle fibers per length of feather. Denser hackle requires fewer turns to get the same floatation. Also look at the tips of the individual fibers. They should not be hooked but straight and sharp. Gauge the stiffness of the hackle by pushing against your lips which are more sensitive than your fingers. Stiffer is better. Try to get some sense of whether the hackle stem will twist when wound around a hook. The longer feathers will give you a sense of this when bent into an arc.

Check the coloration of the neck. It should be consistent without mottling if possible. Look at the feathers underneath the surface feathers to see if there is color variation. Another part is knowing what the color looks like on the cape or saddle and what it looks like on the hook. Because the feathers are layered, the colors are darker on the skin. Pay attention when you tie to the color on the skin and the color on the hook when you tie. Then pay attention to the color on the skin and how they actual feather looks like when separated and bent when you are grading the hackle.

If you can take the hackle package to a window that has some natural light coming in, you will get a truer impression of the color that under artificial light.

Learn by handling necks and saddles so you know what the grades are and how they differ. It is experience. For me, I look for necks and saddles that are under graded. I want an cheaper neck or saddle that is better than it's price and grade. I mainly buy prograde necks and saddles because I know what I am looking for.

For example, if I need hackle for a size 14 dry fly (the most popular size) I look for a saddle that has lots of size 14's and relatively fewer 12s and 16s. For example, there will be pro grade necks with more 16 than 14s and I do not buy those. The ability bend a saddle and quickly tell the dominant size allows me to go through a bunch and pick the best one for me.

There is also a reason for a beginner to try pro grade necks and saddles. The reason is that the beginner needs to buy more colors of hackle than a long time tyer that already has a supply of hackle and is looking to add a specific size or color to replace or add to his supply. So for a beginner, they can get a wider selection of color and sizes for the same amount of money and get the best "bang for their buck".

[Sandan 0]

Cleaned it up for you SilverCreek. Great advice given. Thanks.

[Moshup 0]

Lol.  Silver Creek for the years I’ve been away from this site I’m happy to see you’re posting that same old Whiting comparison chart. 
Good for you. A Whiting man till the end.

Gene L.   It’s been a while . Hope you are well.  You might inquire with the dealers that  carry the Whiting Heritage line.  High quality

and expensive but they do host larger gauge hackle for tying the Catskill classics. (The best dry flies ever created) Yes good spade feathers have but disappeared on the designer necks long ago. If you ever come across some old Metz capes for cheap you will find that they usually have the tailing material you are looking for. I have a small inventory of Spanish rooster spades that I use for tailing.  Got to be careful as they are so stiff and sharp they’ll prick your finger if you’re not careful.😉