what is the recipe for this??

[colbyjack 0]

anyone know what this is? i bought this at fin and feather for $2. i think itd be killer on the gills here. anyone got a recipe or the name of this? i tried to make it but i cant get it close. the hair im using is elk. this is softer, and not as course. and when i try to wrap that head, the thread keeps slipping off the hook. i cant tie a finish on it. im doing something wrong. thanks -chris

 

 

-chris

 

 

[Guest]

I'll give it a shot. It may just be the pic but I would guess the collar is a soft hackle of some type. I could be way off base but it looks more like hackle than hair from that pic and the fact that you said it was soft.

 

Body: Dubbing with wire ribbing

Collar: Soft hackle(pheasant maybe)

Head: Dubbing spun tight

[Teioneon 0]

The head looks like it might be peacock herl.

 

Grey or natural partridge maybe for the hackle?

 

Makes me think of an emerger pattern.

[day5 0]

yea the soft hackle looks right to me but Im not going to venture a guess on the type. and pea cock herl but dubbind would be good toop. Hey CJ look at the first step on any of the tutorials in/on hatches mag. are you tying in correctly when you start the fly??? If you are you should be able to bend the hook before the thread slips off.

[billtiesflies 0]

Hi Chris, this looks to be one of many caddis pupa patterns out there. The body looks like a caddis green synthetic dubbing, I would also say the a soft hackle was used for the collar, not hair of any kind. The head looks like peacock herl, but it's hard to tell from the pic. Could be a wire rib, maybe copper? I would tie on your thread to the area of the hook barb, tie in the rib and begin dubbing the body, about 2/3 of thehook length. Then tie in a soft hackle by the tip where the body ends. Make a couple of wraps and tie off. Now tie in the peacock herl, probably 3 or 4 strands. Twist the herl in a loop of thread and wrap forward and tie off with a whip finish. you could add a bead and skip the herl or use a lead wrap under body if you need it to sink more. Hope this helps Bill C.

[Joe Hard 0]

The fly looks to be an emerging caddis. I have seen this pattern some where, to tired to find it. I would say it is dark green or black wire and chartreuse dubbing, synthetic. the wing and throat seems to be a soft hackle as others have said. The head looks like peacock herl or a synthetic peacock. You could try tying the herl on at the eye of the hook and reverse wrapping it to where the collar is tied in. Or when you tie in the herl a few strands like 4 twist them all together with your tying thread and then wrap it forward tightly. When you get to the eye separate your thread and tie everything off. Another way is to attach the herl strands then form a dubbing loop to twist in with the herl.

[Alex_F 0]

I'd say chartreuse SLF or similar synthetic dubbing, black UTC wire, brown squirrel, cock Ringneck Pheasant tail or possibly stoat spun in a dubbing loop and definitely peacock herl head. It also looks like it could be weighted too.

 

For the head, have you tried tying in the herl close to the eye facing forward then taking the silk back. You then wind the herl back to where it meets the hackle, tie down and whip finish in between the hearl head and the hackle. Not sure if it'll work as multiple strands of Peacock herl can be a bugger to control at times, worth a try though.

[colbyjack 0]

im going to give it a try tonight. ill keep ya posted. maybe i can keep the thread on if i do it in the right order...hehehe thanks guys look for a pic tonight. im going to try to copy it. -chris

[deeky 0]

As for nto being able to get a finish on the head, from the sounds of it, you are crowding the eye too much, and as the thread slips down the head (to the smallest point), it continues right past the hook eye. Try keeping a small, clear area directly behind the eye, at least smaller than the width of the eye, to catch the thread before it slips over the eye. Also, with curved hooks, I have found it is easier to make sure the hook is tipped back in the vice so that the eye is at least parallel to your desk. This will also help to keep the thread from slipping down over the eye.