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Isonychia

Macro flash setup test photo

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The desire for higher fstop numbers is to enable absorbing of more light.

I shall propose an example employing the sunny sixteen rule.

Clear day, medium sunshine just a generally all around sunny day. No excess cloud cover.

 

Never fail recipe. Shoot at an f16 and a speek of 60. All numbers (to my knowledge) double, therefore.....

 

each of these numbers are equal

32 @ 1/15

22 @ 30

16 @ 60

11 @ 120

8 @ 240

The fstop doesn't quite double all the time but the speed sure does.

 

Why would this be relevant? At a speed of 60 things can blur readily. perhaps not at 240. Also, it explains how a longer light exposure could enhance a close up of a fly for instance. Waiting for the shutter to close on a 4 second shot thinking - all the little pieces ..get all the little pieces.....

 

later

Fred

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Hey sturgeon_catcher,

 

Thanks for sharing... I see that you use f/16 and 60, so, I'm asuming your film is ISO 60? My understanding of the (sometimes usable) Sunny 16 rule is f/16 and a shutter speed equal to your ISO. I often use ISO 100, which would mean f/16 120 would work, asuming an EV of 15 is desirable.

 

The link below is to a site that has some interesting info relating to exposure values, this guy really likes the Sunny 16 Rule....Fred Parker - THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER

 

The book that seems to have become my photography bible is Understanding Exposure, by Bryan Peterson, who is not so fond of the Sunny F16 Rule, or any rules, just different ways to get desired exposures, in varying conditions.

 

I'm reading it for the third time now, and taking notes.... To keep in my camera bag for reference... Some of the great tips are things like: when to meter off the surface of water instead of the sky, to add a negative EV of 2/3 when metering off greenery, etc.. Fascinating stuff.... I bought a gray card the other day, made a list of meter readings in different light conditions, and at the same time metered the palm of my hand, and now have notes that tell me how much of an exposure value to add or subtract when I decide to meter off my hand instead of a subject, assuming my hand is in the same lighting conditions of something I don't want to scare away by getting too close to photograph, like wildlife. Learning when not to believe your light meter seems to be very important, as long as you know the right amount to compensate for the correct exposure. I think it will take me many many years to know these things instinctively as opposed to pulling out my note pad.

 

 

Cheers,

Graham

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