stony 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 I am tying some Cloussers for a fly swap. I got the recipe from my Orvis book and it said to use the 3/0 thread. I did on the first one and it looked pretty good. Meaning the head was nicely shaped. I did have a constant problem though with the thread breaking so I switched to 6/0 without any difficulty. The problem now though is that the head seems to be too big and not what the picture looks like. How do you keep your thread from breaking but still be able keep enough tension to pull down the material? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe Hard 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 You have got me, are you sure it was not the other way around, as 3/0 is the stronger thicker thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redwings1 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 Could be an old spool...UV damaged and brittle, or are you catching in on the hook point (common problem tying Clouser style flies)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Al Beatty 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 Hi stony, Joe is right - 6/0 is smaller and 3/0 is about twice as big. That said let's look at the thread breaking problem. Listed below are several questions/answers that may provide a solution: 1. Are you using the same bobbin? If yes, then how long have you had the thread? Shelf life for a spool of thread is seldom more than a couple of years. Once it starts to dry rot it can break fairly easy. If you have a spool of dry rotted thread often you can "get down to" good thread by getting rid of the outside layers. 2. If you are using a different bobbin then check to be certain the bobbin doesn't have a "burr" at the entrance or exit of the tube. Usually ceramic bobbins are less likely to cut/break the thread. I get rid of burrs in bobbin barrels by polishing the inside of the tube with a Dremmel Tool and a pointed bit I made out of a short section of 10 gage copper wire. I shaped a point on one end of the copper wire using a belt sander. Use the pointed end to ream out the ends of the bobbin tube. Let us know if you find the problem. Take care & ... Tight Lines - Al Beatty www.btsflyfishing.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deeky 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 Head size may not be an issue with thread size on Clousers. Check these ideas if you haven't already: 1. Make sure you aren't tying them with too much material. My first ones used half of a bucktail each (almost). More material means a bigger head. 2. When you tie in each bunch of hair. Make a couple of wraps at the back of the head. Then grab the butt ends, pulling them up, and cut the ends at an angle, creating a taper. 3. When tying in each bunch of hair, use just enough wraps of thread to keep the butts held down. Only completely cover everything with a nice head when all materials are on the hook and you are ready to finish. Like material, less thread means a smaller head. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hairstacker 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 Despite the instruction in the book to use 3/0 thread, I think many folks who tie a lot of Clousers prefer to use Danville Flat Waxed Nylon. You'll find this latter thread is plenty strong and will create a less bulky, smoother head. Personally, I won't tie Clousers with anything else. -- Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stony 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 I am using the same bobbin and it's pretty much brand new so I don't think it's fraying it at the tip. I guess I'm off on the size because it's thinner than the 6/0 thread that I'm using. Still a tying noob. When I look at the thread though, it is frayed all the way through, no matter how much I pull off. Just small threads sticking off. I guess I should probably huck it in the trash now. I'll try that flat waxed nylon thread though and see how that works. thanks for your input everybody. This forum rox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 It could be the bobbin thats fraying the thread! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don Stracener 0 Report post Posted August 31, 2006 stony, I had some 8.0 that did that. The thread wasn't a uniform thickness. I would get some new 3.0. On the Clousers you can also cut the hair at a slight taper then start your wrap. This will make for a nicer looking head. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redleg 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2006 Make sure you give it a chance to unwind as you go. It'll break easier when it' gets really twisted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JockeH 0 Report post Posted October 2, 2006 I use nearly almost Bennechi's 12/0 thread it have the same strenght as Dannvilles 8/0, 16oz. One tip. Tie on the thread on a hook and pull it til it break, do it a couple of times and after a while you will learn the strenght of your thread. /Jocke H Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maddog48 0 Report post Posted October 2, 2006 If you can look at the spool and see it's frayed all the way through, you're right. It's time to toss it. A couple bucks for a spool of thread isn't worth the aggravation. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ted patlen 0 Report post Posted October 2, 2006 how you pull down on the thread can also cause breakage ...pull so the thread does NOT touch the tube end...pull so the tube is always 90 degrees to the hook shank..as soon as you angle the bobbin away from perpendicular to the shank the thread contacts the edge of the bobbin and can easily break at that fulcrum..the greaterthe angle the easier it is to break the thread twisting the thread by spinning the bobbin after it is tied in will strengthen the thread and make a 3/o into a 6/0..etc. waxing will further strengthen the thread... however some thread spools just don't work, just chuck it and get another Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jklett 0 Report post Posted October 3, 2006 I've always used regular 4# mono for tying clousers and have never had a problem with it breaking. Might be worth a try. As an added bonus, it lets the material color show through and turns almost invisible with a light coat of epoxy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyboyutah 0 Report post Posted October 3, 2006 i had basicly the same problem. a few things i found out was 1. on the smaller treads i switched to a good ceramic bobbin 2. check the tensen of spool and bobbin fit ( take the thread end in thumb and finger of one hand and with other hand pull bobbin down , it should only take a slight amount of pull for the spool to spin between the bobbin then you can control the amount of tension on the thread the amount of "squeeze" you put on the bobbin "legs". 3. keeping the bobbin tube clean 4. dont let the thread twist. 5. AND LIKE MY BUDDY TOLD ME WHEN I FIRST STARTED PRATICE PRACTICE PRACTICE hope it helps u Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites