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sky-pilot

Silvergrey variant 5/0

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Hi. Made a new one today. Change a couples of things from the orginal Maxwell pattern. I use red and blue macaw as horns instead for blue and yellow macaw, and I have used a claret hackel in the throat. Head is too big and some will probably say hackel is too long. Hope you like it :)

 

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I think it looks great. I tend to like the hackle a little longer so this one matches my eye well.

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Another dressing from you with the wing completely filling the topping framework. Inspired perhaps by Mr. Carne's work?

 

Your flies always have a solid look to them and I much appreciate the style. Great fly!!!

 

DaveG

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Thanks. I see now that the jungel cock is on wrong place after the pattern and ribbing is shabby. Silkwork in tag could also be better, I must get me some burnisher tool. More focus on my next one :) :)

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I love how you tied this one :headbang: Especially the tinsel body, it looks awesome!

 

From my limited experience, I've found that I don't like burnishing the floss, seems to dull it's sheen. Maybe it's just what I'm using as a burnishing tool :dunno: So I like to burnish the underbody. Then if I have a bump anywhere in my floss I know it's from an error I made wrapping the floss and not from a bump in the underbody, plus my floss will stay shiny.

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Over-burnishing WILL knacker the finish on your floss - if it's rough enough to need lumps bashing flat then it's too rough to improve with a burnisher.

 

A glass cocktail stirrer or old smooth glass themometer makes a good burnisher - the one I use (which is the best I've come across) is an agate gold leaf burnisher as used in illuminated manuscripts etc - not as hard to find (or at about $30) as expensive as you'd think... However I only use it VERY gently.

 

Dave

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Thanks Dave! I think I'll try the thermometer, then I can play in the mercury :D

 

Not to go too far off topic from SP's fly, but are there any materials that one should stay away from when deciding to try to use something as a burnishing tool? As far as brass, plastic, stone, glass, etc.?

 

How gentle? Say your underbody is smooth, but you've got a bump in your floss and it just won't go away. Is there a point where you have to press so hard that you're better off rewrapping your floss, or will you just press as hard as you have to to remove that bump?

 

How long will you burnish the bump? Just a few strokes or does it take a minute or so?

 

And finally(get used to all these questions). Assuming the underbody is smooth and the bump occured while you were wrapping it. I've had a bump in my floss bodies before that I just couldn't figure out why/how it got there. Underbody was smooth, tension and the wrapping angle was no different than times when I didn't get a bump. Yet there it was and I just couldn't figure out why or how it got there. What are the causes for a bump in the floss?

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Basically I just run the burnisher gently over the body for about a minute total - pretty lightly - you're using it to pat down the floss rather than hammer it down flat - certainly a lump in the underbody won't smooth out without knackering the floss over it... To find out how far you can go with the various different floss types you'll need to ruin a few flies.

 

A lot of people use the tube of a bobbin holder (especially a poncy tiemco type all ceramic one) - steer clear of brass, copper and aluminium as their oxides may in themselves stain the floss. I know Bud uses a polished agate pebble - it's whatever you get on with really.

 

Dave

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Great looking fly, S-P! Terrific profile and overall appearance.

 

I'll second Dave C's recommendation of an agate burnishing tool. I got one earlier this winter. My floss bodies were pretty smooth before I got it. Now they're even smoother. The cool thing about the agate is that the silk polishes the agate at the same time the agate is polishing the silk. Pretty cool symbiotic relationship.

 

John

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