Jump to content
Fly Tying
Harold Ray

Tying Classic Salmon Fly bodies_the foundation of the fly

Recommended Posts

My fly is still a work in progress. Below is a picture of my second or third body. I realize it doesn't look good, but I was in a cigarette-shaped body mode at the time:

IPB Image

 

With Dave's help, some from Ephemerella, and an image Oatka posted of Bud Guidry's method of building fly bodies, plus an image he entered in a thread on the topic:

Bud Guidry's Classic Salmon Fly body:

IPB Image

 

I am now here. I can't figure out exactly what I need to do to make my body more like his. How about some suggestions, Bud, Dave, Charlie, Matt or anyone who has gotten this down and has a good suggestion:

My Classic Salmon Fly body:

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

 

What do I need to do to make mine more like his, other than tie a few hundred or thousand Classic Salmon Flies?

 

Everyone is posting their flies now; I'm not because I don't have one yet. I just keep chugging along. I figure that if I learn to build a good Classic body, that's one big step. Next, I'll be asking about tails.

 

Thanks,

 

Ray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like you're off to a great start on that underbody Harold. I make mine the same as Bud does(not with such great results though). Make sure you keep your thread flat. Also after each new layer I'll burnish to keep it smooth. It's a lot easier to have a smooth floss(or wool) body when your underbody is already smooth.

 

Looks like you only need a couple more layers on that front part of the body. Be careful though that you don't have too sharp of a taper coming down to the head though. Remember too that the fly Bud was tying when he did that tutorial wasn't what we are tying for the seminar. Look at Long's underbody in the CSS literature and try and use Bud's technique to get that shape.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray, my reccomendation is to not make tapered bodies until you have the rest of the techinques down. In theory, you will be cutting apart a few flies early into their construction so why take a chance you'll spend all that time doing an underbody just to loose it. Once the basics are learned, it will be a cinch to do the cigars.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have to agree with Ronn

 

the bodies i do takes pefect thread control. i don't burnish each pass of thread either like Alex does. my wraps are placed edge to edge and at both ends the thread is flattened. in the middle part of the body i do not flatten the thread . i want the bulk to build up there so i leave the thread rounded and not flattened. when i get close to the area i will make a transition to another direction i then flatten the thread for better control. the body id then burnished when i have the diesired shape and size i need. i replace the thread at the head with 70. move it tothe tag and then burnish this one layer of 70 and then begin apllying materials.

 

my style of tying takes what you mentioned. a good foundation. clean and smooth. i've been rangling the thought of making a tutorial on cassette. i just wonder if it would be worth making one.

 

i'll think more about this but i would have to buy a movie camera and recorder. and sell it at a reasonable price to get my money back for the equipment needed to make this.

 

Bud

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If tying a body like this is not the way to learn, how is the best way to start off? And, with what material, thread, floss?

 

Thanks!

 

Ray

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just looked at the first lesson and see that Long did build up an underbody. Since this pattern has a yarn body, it is less important that the underbody be totally smooth. Same would be true of a dubbed body. So, go ahead and taper it if that is what you want to do. Just remember that under a floss or tinsel body, the underbody MUST be smooth. It is much more difficult to do a smooth one than not so if you learn or settle for less now, it may be more difficult to get it right when crunch time comes. I would still leave that element out at the beginning. Not my call though.

 

Without an underbody, you just follow the rest of the instructions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ray,

 

Here's an option. I can set up my web cam and walk you thru the two different ways and materials that I know, and it will get you started on the the Classic Seminar stuff.

 

How's Tomorrow evening at say 5:30 Pacific Time ?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Harold, I think what Ronn is saying is that on this fly, it doesn't make sense to take the 20 mins. or more that it takes to make up the perfect floss underbody like Bud uses on his beauties because you are covering it up with Magenta Wool, not floss. Use dental tape, 280 denier thread, floss or anything you want to quickly make the cigar shape on this one. In lesson 3 will be the time to create the smooth underbody as it has a floss body.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How's Tomorrow evening at say 5:30 Pacific Time ?

 

Royce,

 

I would love to do this because I'm sure it would help me a lot, but I can't tomorrow night. I already have promised to work then. We're opening a new emergency clinic and tomorrow night is a work night for all of us, getting everything ready for the opening May 1st, maybe a night next week, Monday, Tuesday? Usually I can have time practically any night.

 

Thanks for the offer; I really appreciate it!

 

Ray

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Matt,

 

I understand. Under the floss you have to worry much more about the underbody because it fits so tightly against its backing, the underbody, and will show any defect, which yarn-like material hides many flaws. Right?

 

Thanks!

 

Ray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Exactly. If you look at the tutorial, Long's body does not resemble Bud's body as Long's is much rougher because he knew that he was going to apply the wool body. The general shape is important, getting all of the little bumps is not as important under wool, seal's fur, dubbing bodies as it is with floss or tinsel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ronn,

 

I always appreciate your advice; please keep it coming.

 

Did you get my e-mail about your hooks? I sent it a couple of nights ago and it may have gone astray. I hadn't heard from you so figured you hadn't gotten it. If it didn't come through, let me know and I send it again.

 

Thanks again,

 

Ray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If you look at the tutorial, Long's body does not resemble Bud's body as Long's is much rougher because he knew that he was going to apply the wool body.

 

Yes, I see that. I'm going to tear down the body above and go for Long's body conture. I tried on this body ontwice before, but now I understand more about getting the job done correctly. I'll give it another try and see how it comes out. I can guarantee you already it is going to be considerably better than before.

 

Ray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...