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exosubjekt73

my first 2 flies

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great flies but need to be in focus lol!!!

 

any way i would recommend the book called stillwater solutions recipes by brian chan and phil rowley

 

great book has an outline of a bunch of materials for you.

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exosubjekt73

 

You are going to make a GREAT production tyer! Your two flies are IDENTICAL!

 

As to materials for dry flies and nymphs. I suggest you search the net to find a couple of flies you like and then just get the materials listed in the pattern recipes. You can also find step-by-step instructions for tying on the internet. I also suggest you buy yourself a good book. I think there is a thread here somewhere regarding recommended beginner's books.

 

 

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From you pictures, it looks like you need a camera that can do close ups. Or at least learn where the macro setting is on your camera. If your going to post pictures, they need to be in focus.

 

Now as to materials: Dry flies are meant to float, and nymphs (for the most part) are supposed to sink.

 

Fine or ultra fine synthetic dubbing will be good for dry fly bodies. These dubbings would tie up into thin clean bodies that won't absorb much water (especailly if treated with floatant.) Fur dubbing and the corser synthetics or blends will be better suited to nymphs. You should start with a range of light to dark olives, tans, and browns. Find out what insects live in your local waters and get colors to match those also. Quill bodies can be wrapped for either nymphs or dry flies. Wool and synthetic yarns make excellent fly tying materials. The yarn plys can be seperated for smaller bodies, or the yarn can be chopped and blended to make dubbings. If you know anyone who knits, ask for the scraps. Pheasant tail fibers are used in the Pheasant tail nymph and other nymph patterns. Turkey tails can be used the same way to make a darker version of the same pattern.

 

Hackle for nymphs will be soft and webby, from either game birds (partridge, pheasant, grouse) or from the lowest grade saddle hackles and hen necks and saddles. I save any use the webby bases of many dry fly hackles for nymphs too. Many times, the thorax area can be picked or brushed out to tease out enough of the dubbing to make legs, and no hackle at all is needed. Many nymphs call for wing cases or wing pads. These are made of various wing feathers, and tail feathers (goose, turkey, pheasant, peacock.) Wing pads can also be made from clear or colored plastic bags, sparkle ribbon many other materials. Wing pads can also be made with small beads of 5 minute epoxie or Knot Sence glue.

 

Hackle for dry flys will be stiff and shiny. The best dry fly hackle will come from domestic rooster necks and saddles. These will be bread to give the longest feathers with stiff barbs and a long taper. Many times the saddles will be long enough to tie two or three flies from one feather. To start out, look for grizzley, brown, ginger, and dun (gray.)

 

Dry fly wings can be made from flank feathers from Wood Ducks, Mallards, and other ducks. Hair from calf tails are used for many attractor flies or synthetic poly materials can be substituted. Deer hair is used on a lot of dry fly wings (look up the comparadun fly.) Elk hair is also used for the Elk Hair Caddis, and on Stone fly and hopper patterns.

 

These materials should get you started.

 

I have ties for more than 50 years, and I am still finding new things to tie flies with.

 

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