Jump to content
Fly Tying
mcfly

Knotless connecters

Recommended Posts

Today I picked up some Cortland slip on leader loops so that I can try the knotless leader approach. I must admit they do look pretty slick but for the life of me I can't seem to melt the band without melting the strands of line on the webbing. I ended up using superglue and it seems to have worked fine.

 

After finally getting a good strong connection on my fly line I tied in a perfection loop on the leader and put the whole thing together.

 

I plan on giving this a run tomorrow but the whole thing looks kind of bulky compared to a simple nail knot. Am I one of the last few still using nail knots for my leaders and is the slip on leader loops by Cortland the best option for knotless connections?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I gave up on the braided loop connectors. The convenience of changing leaders is great but I found that the braided loop connectors tend to collect water and sink the end of my floating line. Maybe it's just a pet peave but it drove me crazy. crazy.gif

 

I now take some stiff mono - like 30# Maxima, attach it to the fly line with a nail knot and tie a loop in that. Allows my fly line to stay floating and I still have the convenience of the loop to loop connection.

 

-Bamboo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought this cute little tool for tying nail knots. It was only $3 or $4. It clips very convienently into a holder in the spine of my C&F Fly Box. I have never been able to make such nice tight nail knots. The knot holds together so well that you can trim the excess down very close. I have very little problems with anything getting hung up on the knot.

 

Last time I was in the fly shop, some guy had just bought a new reel and had the backing and line installed. He asked Kyle (salesman and awesome fly tier) to tie a leader on for him. Kyle tied on a very heavy leader using the same nail knot tool I use and then tied a loop in that. They customer was shown how to change leaders quickly using the loops.

 

Personally, I don't change leaders that often. I use this tool to tie a fresh leader on with a good nail knot. I keep several sizes of tippet material in a vest pocket and just replace the tippet (and sometimes a length of the next higher diameter above that) very regularly.

 

More later,

Ken S.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have no problem tying the nail knots but it seemed to me everyone was using knotless connectors so I decided to give them a try. I haven't tested my nail knot on a steelhead but they haven't broken yet even on the biggest of trees. smile.gif

 

I use a tool as well to make it quicker and at times tie a nailless nail knot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

McFLy,

 

I got away from them for the same reasons Bamboo mention.

 

I also lost a HUGE steelhead to one last year. I have caught numerous fish on the line, but when I hooked in the this one female, she took off to the lake. I put the stick to her to try and turn her. I get her turned and I am gaining line back, all the sudden the line went slack. I thought the hook broke or pulled out.

 

Damn braided loop connector came off my line. wallbash.gif

 

Now I have 30 lb mono nail knotted with a perfection loop at the end.

Much better !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have some braided leaders left over from a past investment so I still use them for trout and don't have a problem with them. They do sink. I prefer a heavy pice of mono with a loop nail knotted onto the end of the fly line. I also don't trust the braided loops for Salmon and steelhead.

 

Chip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

You should prepair your feruled leaders with floatant.

you can't expect feruled leaders to float without floatant

 

OSD.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I set my Flyline up with the Dave Whitlock's No-Knot Connection. I have to admit that it took me a while to get it set up but for me, it was well worth it.

 

I change my leader frequently so I have the loop to loop connection.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

QUOTE (Bear Coat @ May 6 2004, 05:31 PM)


I change my leader frequently so I have the loop to loop connection.

I agree with you on that one B.C i am the same way about changing leaders all the time.

 

I haven't had any exp. with the "connectors" that are out there but they have always kinda "scared me" when i looked at the way they are attached. dunno.gif

 

SD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also have a nail knot tying tool on my clippers. It fold back like the deal on a pair of finger nail clippers. This makes tying nail knots very easy. I do not like the cortland product. If you want to go this route, I noticed the other day that Rio's Grand fly line has a loop built in to the end of the fly line. This looked like a very good product. I have not used this, but am thinking of trying it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

QUOTE (steeldrifter @ May 6 2004, 07:02 PM)
I haven't had any exp. with the "connectors" that are out there but they have always kinda "scared me" when i looked at the way they are attached. dunno.gif

SD

The Dave Whitlock No-Knot Connections us using the core of the Flyline to make the loop so it is not likely to come off.

 

Here is a Site that gives instructions on setting up this connection:

 

http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/dwknotless/

 

It can also be found in the December 2003 issue of "Fly Fisherman" Magazine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use dave whitlocks system for 5wt. and under. and make my own braided ends for my 6wt. and larger lines. I also don't like the heat shrink ends for heat weakens the line. I whip the end of the braid and then super glue.(I like to seal the connection with pliobond so no moisture gets in the end of the core and sinks the tip)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the loop to loop system. It's far and away the best way to switch leaders or put on a sink head. To solve the problems that many of the above point out, I thread the loop as far onto my flyline and I can - this helps float it. Secondly, when trying to melt the shrink tube, use the top of a lit light bulb - roll the connection on it until tight. Take care to keep it moving so it doesn't stick to the bulb. Thirdly, put a drop of Zap-a-Gap just above the heat shrink tubing, just enough to go around the flyline.

I promise you it won't come off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i use the leader loops also. i also just started using a new leader called frog hair i think it is? it already has a loop on the end lol(talk about lazy!!) but it helps a lot in low light conditions! i also snake it on the line as far as it can go then use a light bulb to melt the shrink wrap. takes a little longer but last a VERY long time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you use these, you absolutely MUST super glue them. I have had 2 come off on Kings. With a steady pull, there is no way they'll come off. But fish don't pull that way. When you've got a big fish pulsing on the line, the braided material loosens and then pulls tight over and over again. This action will cause it to creep down your fly line and eventually pull free. Others I have talked to have had the same problem.

 

The first time this happened, I thought it was just a fluke and so put another on. It then happened again. Super glue will prevent this, but with big fish, I now use a nail knot connection. I have yet to have this fail.

 

The Whitlock knotless connection is intriguing. I wonder if it would hold up on big fish. I may have to give it a try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...