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bhaase

Bobbin Question

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Hi there,

 

Any recommendations for a specific bobbin when using Pearsall's gossamer silk? I just received my first few spools and I hadn't realized how much smaller they are compared to a normal spool of thread. I currently use only one bobbin, a Griffin ceramic, and it's served me just fine. Ironically, just last night I was thinking that I should invest in a few more bobbins for different threads. I've found that just the idea of having to switch threads using the same bobbin in enough for me to sometimes call it a night.

 

Also, when using thicker (4 strand) silk do you usually set that up in a bobbin too? I've found it pretty difficult at certain points using the bobbin...specifically, with finish the fly it tends to unravel on me. Recently, I've started cutting off a few inches of it and tying it in - therefore, using thread to finish it, not floss.

 

Thanks,

Blake

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Back in the day flies were tied using silk without the aid of a bobbin.

 

You could try that, but you have to be careful to keep your hands clean so as to avoid

messing up the silk. They used to have a 'thread stop' to keep the tension on the silk;

this was usually a rubber button screwed to the edge of the bench, where the silk could

be wrapped round temporarily, while other materials were being assembled.

 

Bobbin wise, ceramic is good so as to avoid damage to the fibers, although you'll get

away with non-ceramic for a while - just stay on the lookout for damage to the silk.

 

There are two ways you can go - dedicate a bobbin - bend the legs so they fit the smaller

silk spool, or, keep an empty thread spool and transfer your silk onto it.

 

With the 4-strand stuff, if it mis-behaves, unreel a bunch from the spool and re-wind it,

coaxing it to stay 'roped' - that usually helps.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the reply. You made a lot of good points. I think I have to go back to one of my books by Nemes or Hughes...aren't a lot of, or most, soft hackled flies finished with thread? I think I've been doing these wrong by finishing the head in silk floss.

Funny point about watching the hands. I climb a lot and just the other night, while tying, I was having a hell of a time with the floss getting stuck on calluses on my finger tips. I definately have to start watching that.

 

Thanks again,

Blake

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Again, 'back in the day', silk was the actual tying thread, used to tie the whole fly.

 

Actually, to those guys, the terms 'silk' and 'tying thread' are interchangeable/one-in-the-same.

 

Can't vouch for Nemes and can't recall what Dave Hughes does - don't have my books to hand.

 

I'm pretty sure that Leisenring used silk throughout on his silk thread wets - this is the recipe I follow,

but then I'm all for keeping it simple - why use two threads when one will do ?

 

If your flies look the part and catch fish, then they can't be 'wrong' ....

 

A nice tip for getting a tapered silk body - wrap a tapered body using dubbing and cover it with silk.

It's quicker than using many many wraps of silk to build up the taper. You can fool around with

different dubbing colors to see what 'shows through' the wet silk if you think that is important.

 

Can't say I'd recommend whip finishing with the 4 strand stuff though ..... (I'm guessing

you're referring to Marabou Silk Floss, or similar).

 

Haven't used the mult-strand stuff for a long time - I just clip off what I need and use a separate tying

thread.

 

 

 

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Thanks again. I think you're probably right on all fronts. I'm going to try the dubbing advice before wrapping the body. That sounds like a good plan.

 

B

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Wasatch makes a bobbin specifically for those small spools. As for the four strand floss, you don't use a bobbin. You use one or two strands and cut off only what you need.

 

Rough hands will destroy floss, silk or synthetic. You can buy a pumice stone at the drug store and use the stone to remove the rough edges, or wear silk gloves. You can get the gloves from Cabelas for $10.

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