Attaching a trailer hook.

[Linesides 0]

Im tying up a few sand eels and the pattern calls for a 1/0 followed 4 inches back by a #2 hook. What type of line do you use and any special knots. My first time tying tandem.

Dave

[crappie 0]

I run the line thru the eye of the tandem hook.

I then wrap the thread over the line down the hook to the bend.

I fold then line back over the hook and wrap back toward the hook eye.

then super glue it and let it dry.

One the front hook I wrap the thread from the bend toward the eye and then flip the line back and wrap over it again. I then super glue it and let it dry. You can then tie the fly.

The line strength will depend on the size fish you are catching. You can match it to your tippett size.

I hope this helps.

 

Crappie

[Trad 0]

The main problem on such flies is getting a link which is stiff enough to hold the hook where you want it to be without sagging etc.

 

Fairly strong nylon is the best I have found for flies that are not used on extremely "toothy critters". Otherwise, you have to use wire of some sort.

 

Strength of the nylon or wire you choose, mainly depends on the weight of the rear hook.

 

For large dressed stinger hooks you need heavier gauge material. Also, nylon monofilament varies considerably, you need stiff mono for such mounts, like the Mason hard mono.

 

TL

MC

[letumgo 0]

I've been using plastic coated stainless steel beading wire (Accu-Flex), which you can pick up from Walmart, JoAnne's, AC Moore. It is carried in the jewelry supply area and is normally used for making necklaces and bracelets. I swiped mine from my wife (please don't tell... ).

 

I tye it to the hook in an open loop along the full shank of the hook. I do not add the trailer hook until after the fly is finished. It is much safer tying that way. Without the trailer hook, there is no chance of accidentally impaling yourself on the trailer hook while tying the fly.

 

Once the fly is finished, take the wire trailing loop and crimp the end of the loop with a pair of flat nose pliers. This will make the end of the wire loop small enough to slide through the eye of a hook. Slide the hook up the wire loop until you can open the loop and pull the hook back through the center of the loop. Now pull the hook back to the end of the loop where it will stay secured. If the hook does not sit properly, just pull it snugly and bend the wire to the right shape.

 

This wire is quite flexible, and yet stiff enough to hang nicely out the back of the fly. Since the wire is made of plastic wrapped stainless steel, there is no chance of it rusting.

 

This method also allows you to change out the trailer hook (single hook, treble hook, no trailer hook, etc.) to suit the type of fishing you are doing and the local fishing regulations. You can also change out the trailer hook if it gets dull or damaged, potentially making a fly last longer.

 

Hopefully my description was clear enough, but let me know if some pictures would help.

[Trad 0]

I've been using plastic coated stainless steel beading wire (Accu-Flex), which you can pick up from Walmart, JoAnne's, AC Moore. It is carried in the jewelry supply area and is normally used for making necklaces and bracelets. I swiped mine from my wife (please don't tell... ).

 

I tye it to the hook in an open loop along the full shank of the hook. I do not add the trailer hook until after the fly is finished. It is much safer tying that way. Without the trailer hook, there is no chance of accidentally impaling yourself on the trailer hook while tying the fly.

 

Once the fly is finished, take the wire trailing loop and crimp the end of the loop with a pair of flat nose pliers. This will make the end of the wire loop small enough to slide through the eye of a hook. Slide the hook up the wire loop until you can open the loop and pull the hook back through the center of the loop. Now pull the hook back to the end of the loop where it will stay secured. If the hook does not sit properly, just pull it snugly and bend the wire to the right shape.

 

This wire is quite flexible, and yet stiff enough to hang nicely out the back of the fly. Since the wire is made of plastic wrapped stainless steel, there is no chance of it rusting.

 

This method also allows you to change out the trailer hook (single hook, treble hook, no trailer hook, etc.) to suit the type of fishing you are doing and the local fishing regulations. You can also change out the trailer hook if it gets dull or damaged, potentially making a fly last longer.

 

Hopefully my description was clear enough, but let me know if some pictures would help.

 

A really excellent idea and method. I would just like to add that one may use a "sleeve" over the loop. These sleeves are the things used to put on the end of cables. One can slide the sleeve down to "lock" the loop tight. I have also used pieces of Q-tip for this. Works well on this sand eel for instance;

 

http://www.mike1.bplaced.net/Wikka/SandEelTube

 

TL

MC

[letumgo 0]

Thanks Mike. I like that "sleeve" idea. I'm going to steal that one for later.

[Trad 0]

The sleeves I mentioned are known as "Core end sleeves", and practically any electrical or similar shop will have them. I have also used these for dressing tube flies;

 

http://lapplimited.lappgroup.com/14/en/web...2317/index.html

 

They can also be used as "crimps" on various wire pike tackles etc. I have also used them to make "propellers" for "Pistol Petes" and the like. They are easy to solder.

 

TL

MC