Dwhitt1981 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2009 Is WF line easier to cast? The reason I ask is my buddy brought me so line and I put it on an just started casting. Well my casts aren't that long so I looked and it's level line. So I bought so WF but didn't know if I should change it or not. Also do I realy need to use braided backing? Because I've got so mono on it right now. Last one . Do tapper tippets help the fly or will mono do just as good? Thanks for all the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old Hat 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2009 1. Sometimes, maybe 2. Yes 3. They will help you throw a more controlled cast. Short answers: I am assuming by level line you mean a Double Taper (DT) which has a short taper on the front and back of the line with long even running line in between. Weight Forward (WF) usually has a longer taper in the front which builds in diameter then tapers a little sharper into a long even running line. Each line has it's own uses. It is generally easier for beginners to start with a WF. The trick is to cast with the right amount of line out. Preferabley you want to have the WF section out to get the most out of the line. the box the line came in should describe how long the Weighted section is. Now there is nothing wrong with the DT. Many prefer it. You just have to pay attention to your form a little more to get the same cast. I like double tapers if there is no need to cast long distances. They cast better than a WF for short distance casting, they are easier to mend, and roll cast, and when one end gets worn you can swap the line around and have basically a new line. I have DT on my trout stream rods and WF on most of my lake and steelhead rods. Backing is prefered for its strength, light weight, it's flexibility and is less bulky and fits the spool much better and other reasons. It is inexpensive You can buy tapered mono leaders or build your own with different diameters of mono, furl a leader from thread or mono, or just use mono. The only time I use straight mono is when I am steelhead fishing and casting big streamers, leaches etc or or going after big bass and lake trout. In all these cases, pretty casting is low on the list of neccessities. You are just trying to get a big heavy fly out in the water. If you want to learn to cast properly get some form of tapered leader. A taper leader lets the energy from your cast transfer evenly to your fly allowing you to control the placement of the fly much better. We say it turns your turns your fly and line over in a nice tight controlled loop instead of just chucking the leader and fly through the air. If you are just getting started I highly recommend the book The Curtis Creek Manifesto. It has little bit about everything concerning fly fishing in it and runs under $10 new. It's a fun book to read. It will lay out all the basics you need. As you grow in experience you can take classes or read books a bit more in depth on specific topics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NineZeroSeven 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2009 Backing is prefered for its strength, light weight, it's flexibility and is less bulky and fits the spool much better and other reasons. It is inexpensive In addition to what Old Hat says, I've been told that mono stretches considerably more than the dacron (or comparable) backing. This could create a birds nest effect, should you have a heavy fish run into your backing, in takin line back in, your putting compressed mono on top of loose, uncompressed mono, which can cause the loose to stick out through the tight (theoretically.) Another reason I personally like using dacron is the color. I prefer green flyline over orange dacron, which makes it obvious how much fly line is left when a fish is running - it gives you a visual reference as to how much line you have out. 907 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeO 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2009 If you get new line just pick up another reel if the line is between 4-7 wt you can pick up a good reel for 25 or less or Try a someone else reel with the same weight line it could be the rod not the line. We all know its always the equiptments fault not ours :headbang: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwhitt1981 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2009 Well I just replaced my rod. It's not top of the line but I went from a 7' to a 9'. Also I've only been fly fishing for a total of a week or two. I just want to give myself the best chance I can without breaking the bank. I like most guys out there will do that from time to time. I'm going to try to change the line first I think and if the temp(it's 28 right now) will get up then maybe this weekend give it a try. Is dacron a brank or a type of backing? How do I ty my tippet to my fly line? I think I saw a knot called the perfect loop for a loop to loop.I assume it'swhat I use. Thanks again you all have been a great help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ibboone 0 Report post Posted January 16, 2009 Check out this site. It will give you alot of insight on fly fishing and maybe even help you out in your cross over to the dark side. fly fishing 101 Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NineZeroSeven 0 Report post Posted January 16, 2009 To attach your leader to the flyline you can either do the loops as you mentioned, it's easy, but causes a little more drag, and the knots and loops are a bit more likely to catch any floating weeds, etc. I prefer a nail knot. It takes a minute to tie, but once you've got the hang of it it's not too bad, and it's really smooth casting and in the water. Here's a great how-to: http://www.netknots.com/html/nail_knot.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vilageidiot 0 Report post Posted January 16, 2009 You could also put a slip-on leader-loop by cortland and then you don't even have to tie a knot if you buy looped leaders Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwhitt1981 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2009 A guy at bass pro showed me how to ty the nail knot and talked me into the little tool for tying them. They also told me that they will be having a fly tying class so I sing up for the newsletter. Man I love that place.Thanks for all the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Futzer 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2009 A guy at bass pro showed me how to ty the nail knot and talked me into the little tool for tying them. They also told me that they will be having a fly tying class so I sing up for the newsletter. Man I love that place.Thanks for all the help. Sorry Dwitt, the tube on your bobbin makes a dandy nail knot tool. But it looks like you are having fun, and that is paramount. Futzer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old Hat 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2009 A guy at bass pro showed me how to ty the nail knot and talked me into the little tool for tying them. They also told me that they will be having a fly tying class so I sing up for the newsletter. Man I love that place.Thanks for all the help. I've had a little tool like that for a while, I don't know if it is the same one. Mine has a magnet in one end, a needle that slips into the tube for tying a needle knot and then the tube for the nail knot. I love it and use it all the time for pulling out hooks form my boxes and tying the knots. Has made life much easier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TnTom 0 Report post Posted January 24, 2009 If you tie a nail knot I found a simple way to accomplish the task using no nail or tube. I you have a bobbin threader proceed just like you would with a nail or tube but rather lay the threader in along side and make your wraps, insert the thread in the threader and pull it out. The knot is almost cinched just pull after you use your thumb nail to snug the wraps togeather. It makes for a very neat tight finished nail knot and no diddling. Another good substitute is a simple mono loop along side, wrap...insert...and pull the loop out. snug wraps and tighten. Much easier that any nail knot tool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeO 0 Report post Posted January 24, 2009 Also the lighter the rod the easier it is to cast. I started with a 7 weight because I do a lot of bass fishing and I could go after schoolie stripers with it also and any trout I would just drag him in WF7 floating line I also have 7WF 20 ft sink tip which is even easier to cast. I then got a 5 Wf floating and 5 wf20ft sink tip they are easier to cast. than the 7 wgt and in most situaltion this the rod I use the most I catch bass on it all the time and it also cost probably 1/2 the 7 wt. This past summer I picked up a 9wt with intermediate line for stripers I can cast this pretty good but it also a better rod than the other two. For Christmas I got WF6 intermediate for lake fishing for my 5 wt rod this will be for lake fishing the over weight is suppose to over shoot the cast and give greater distance I will see I still haven't tried that yet all my rods are 9 ft 4 and 2 pc I would like to get a nice 3 or 4 leaning toward 3 for all the small streams around here about 7 1/2 feet long 9 ft keeps hitting the threes. But first I have to finish paying for my new white water canoe :headbang: and the outfitting before I buy another fly rod outfit :headbang: So many hobbies so little time :bugeyes: All that being said A good quality rod and the lightest you need will allow you to cast the farthest especially for a beginner.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites