Dry fly Hackle

[H.Champagne 0]

Just started tying. Looking for some tips about tying on hackle. I am having a hard time tying the hackle on and having it make a full, even circle. Also, my hackle doesnt point straight out, some of it leans back, and some leans forward. I am probably just missing some really obvious part to this process but i guess this is the best outlet to get answers for such questions.

 

thanks

[JSzymczyk 0]

one important thing I learned about dry flies, is make sure you tye your hackle in by the "butt" end of the feather- in other words don't tie it in by the tip. Leave a full wrap worth of bare stem out too, so your first wrap is nothing but stem, no barbs. It helps align the rest of the wraps. Using very good quality hackle makes a difference. I know it is expensive, but it's worth it. Leave yourself a LOT of room to wrap the hackle. On a standard dry fly hook, you should give yourself almost half the hook shank on which to wrap your hackles, it's easier to learn that way. The more wraps you can make, snug up against each other, the fuller your hackle collar will look, I usually try for 6 or more full wraps of hackle. If You just started tying, perhaps do a day's worth of work hackling wet flies like woolly worms and buggers, just to get used to working with it. Get practice tying tying flies you can actually SEE, before trying to go too small. Flies like a large (10 or 12 or so) Griffith's Gnat are good practice, because you wrap the hackle through a supporting material, which helps it go perpendicular, and they catch a ton of fish.

 

I still struggle with dry flies from time to time, after many years.

 

There are a lot of good tutorials on line, and a lot of good instructions in books too. Two of the best I've seen are "Charlie Craven's Basic Fly Tying" and "Benchside Introduction to Fly Tying" from Leeson and Schollmeyer. A good book or two is always worth it. Craven's Basic Fly Tying is a really good one.

 

Others on here are MUCH more talented at dry flies than I, and hopefully someone will bring on a few other more important tips.

[Jaydub 0]

Make sure you have a smooth base of thread to wrap over. A lumpy base can cause the fibers to lean in all directions. Strip enough fibers off of the butt fo the stem to get to the "sweet spot". You can strip a few more fibers off the the leading side of the feather. Hold the hackle so the fibers are in a vertical plane while wrapping. Use good quality dry fly hackle. Twisted stems can make it very difficult to get a good looking hackle.

[David Legg 0]

Also, make sure you are moving continually toward the hook eye while wrapping... don't wind back and forth over the hackle you have already wound on, as that would push barbs in all directions. Also, if you use hackle pliars, you can easily keep from twisting the hackle as you wrap it... technique varies. If it is a simple spring clamp, putting your finger through the loop and letting it turn as you move your finger around the hook works. If you are holding the hackle in one hand, and just wrapping it, it will twist badly. If you have no hackle pliars, you need to pass the hackle back and forth between your hands as you wrap to keep the fibers continually in the same plane so that the hackle does not twist.

[twohearted 0]

Good comments guys. That is what I love about the forum, what a wealth of knowledge.

 

Champagne, this might be the most difficult aspect of fly tying to learn. All the points made are very helpfull with emphasis placed on tying in at the butt end. If I could put two cents in I would say always be consistant and be mindful of what yoy are doing from fly to fly. That way when you do make an adjustment and the fly turns out great you know what to do to repeat your success. One thing I found very helpful is to make sure when tying in the butt end that I place the concave - bottom, non-shiny side - of the feather toward me and then wrap the hackle "Away and over the top." It is good to get in the habbit of going "Away and over the top."

 

I have tied with some guys - God love'em - that either didn't go "Away and over the top" or could not recall which way they wrapped their materials. Tying was not easy for them until they made the change. Whatever you do, once you find what works stay consistant.

 

In addition, the comment made regarding hackle pliers is right on. Their are a couple different styles, if you have the money try one of each - like three types - they are one of the cheaper tools to buy. I found the rotary type suit me but make sure you get a pair that hold tight. Some slip easily, the hackle unwinds, and well....add nausium.

 

I also agree most with the comment regarding the quality of hackle. Capes and saddles are fun to look at but can get really pricey. This is a shameless plug, but I prefer Whiting 100's - enough for 100 flies - as each feather is specifically sized and you get well over 100 flies per pack. As a means of saving a buck or two I often find someone to split with so we can buy multiple colors and sizes. I also cheat and use the size I purchase to tie the size up and the size down, killing three birds with one stone....or is that one bird with three stones? Anyway, best of luck with tying dries. I found them the hardest to learn but for me they are the most satisfying. Be diligent, patient, and you will soon be an artist.

 

Two Hearted

[rockworm 0]

Good recommendations all. Especially those suggesting you use good quality feathers, create a smooth area for the tye in, and practice. Also, this problem seems to occur less often when using saddle hackles. My two cents:

 

If your hackle fibers are leaning both forward and backward I would guess your feather has twisted just a little and the feather is meeting the hook shank on its face not and on its side. More often than not this happens because the rachis (stem) is too thick. There are two ways to fix this.

 

First, if using cock neck, make sure you strip away all the webby fibers from the base. I often go a step further and strip away the fibers from the thick part of the rachis. (Sometimes this means using only the top half of the feather.)

 

Second, if the feather still wants to twist as you start winding, take the feather and pull it firmly straight out over the hook eye. This often (but not always) will reseat the butt at the tye in point.

 

One final note. Some professional tyers go out of their way (by wrapping the hackle back and forth) to make the fibers stick out at all angles because, as they point out, the legs of the insect stick out forward, backward and to the sides.