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Fly Tying
Robert M

Tip of the Day

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I'm sure this theme has floated around many times before but can't think of a better place to put it :)

 

 

If your hands have become work or weather chapped, rough and dry it can bugger up your tying thread and make handling materials a royal pain.

Keep a piece of emory cloth, fine sandpaper, nail file or a pumice stone with your tying gear. If you find the materials sticking and fraying from your fingers then file/sand the area that is offending until it is smooth. At night rub some lotion into your hands before you go to sleep to help them heal back up or better yet rub some lotion onto your significant other does the same thing but more fun. ;)

Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Hand Cream is one of the best ones for repairing dryness to your hands.

 

 

Heres another one, buy a package of dental flosser/picks the kind that has a point on one end and floss trapped between two posts. These things are great for spreading super glue on lead bodies or just getting on your thread wraps. For lead bodies apply glue to the wrapped lead then rub down the length with the flosser it helps to spread the glue and allows it to sink in quicker. If you want to just apply a small amount of glue to a little area put a drop on a different surface or directly to the thread on the flosser then carefully touch the wetted floss to the location you need the glue rotate it around the hook and your done. The pick end is nice for mixing small batches of epoxy and applying it or when you don't want to get cement on your bodkin. Just chunk it when your done.

 

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Thread control.

 

Go slow and minimize the amount of thread you have out. At most I have 1 inch of thread between my hook and the tip of my bobbin. Also remember as you are wrapping your thread around the hook; the thread is slowly twisting in the area between your hook and your spool and after a while it won't lay flat. To avoid this after every 10-20 or so wraps I spin my bobbin to take the twists out.

 

Ian

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Add a half hitch after tying in materials. If your thread breaks they won't fall out. and it keeps the fly somewhat more durable. That's my 2 cents

 

-Mark

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Add a half hitch after tying in materials. If your thread breaks they won't fall out. and it keeps the fly somewhat more durable. That's my 2 cents

 

-Mark

 

Cuts down on thread build up too. Good tip!

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Have fun and enjoy yourself. Fly tying isn't something to get all frustrated and worked-up about. Enjoy doing it while you can. There may come a time when you are injured and can't do the stuff you like to do..... <_<

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Fly tying isn't something to get all frustrated and worked-up about...

 

 

Oooops. I've been doing something terribly...terribly wrong then, Joel. 'Cause sometimes

I curse. :wallbash: :P

 

 

 

Mike

 

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As you complete a part of the fly (for example, the tail or some other part), stop and take a critical eye to it . . . if it's supposed to be on top of the hook shank, is it there or has it rolled over to the other side? Are the proportions right? Is it the right length, the right thickness, is it tapered properly, etc.? Does this part begin and end at the right points on the hook shank? In other words, get each part "right" before moving on to the next part. If the part isn't correct now, it won't be after you've finished tying the fly either. Might as well unwind and re-do as many times as necessary to get it right before moving on to the next part. This will train and inform you to do very specific things correctly as you go, rather than study a crappy fly at the end and wonder in general terms what might have gone wrong and what you might do different next time.

 

Mediocre parts make a mediocre fly. So . . . repeat this mantra when you're dreaming about fly tying: It is the sum of great parts that makes a great fly.

 

-- Mike

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Crystal Flash, Flashabou, etc. can be evened up in a hair stacker. Perhaps I'm a little slow, but that was my 'AHA!' moment of the day yesterday...no more trimming to even the ends up.

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Wet marabou when working with it especially when palmering it around a body or hook shank.

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I save all my scraps and twice a year I cut them all up and mix it well, throw it in a dubbing loop and tie a bunch of cased caddis'.

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Use the tips of your good scissors only to cut the finest little unwanted protrusions. Dont even try to use the tips for clumps of stuff or anything that takes even a little effort to cut.

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If you can't tie in natural sunlight get a good desk light that puts out natural type light.

Ott light is the one that all the rest are compared too. If you can't afford one look for

knock offs at your local big box hardware store I have found several at reasonable cost.

Also some of the craft stores put out 50 or 40 percent off coupons on a regular basis most

of them carry Ott lights or similar natural light lamps for artists.

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