TOM PRUETT 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 I tried for over 2 hours to tie a fly on a 3906#18 a FIERY MIDGE http://www.nsfa-adventures.com/STEP_BY_STE...Y_MIDGE_FLY.htm I had a hell of a time !!! Do you need special tools / vise for this!! I was using a my renzetti with a ott light 4x mag? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DevinKaradeema 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 dude i love midges!! i have an AA vice and i can tie on that so i don't think it would be the vice.. they do make a smaller bobbin midge bobbin I had to slow down and treat the real small ones as if they were works of art and just take time (24s alot of time for placement) i did start to cheat, lick your finger and wet the spot you want the tails or hackle it does add some tension. and as for personal experience less dubbing lol hope that helps a bit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smallieFanatic 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 Just make sure you've got the right sized thread, after that all you need is practice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockworm 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 Tom You don't say exactly what the problem is, but if you're like me it's probably just fat fingers- and we just have to learn to live with them. You already have good illumination and you're using magnification. As Devin suggested, you should use very little dubbing. And you might try small diameter thread (ie 14/0 or Spiderweb.) I always tye a couple of larger versions before I tackle the small ones. Tye the same pattern in #14 then #16 before tying your #18s. It's surprising how much it helps. Oh yea- unlike most trout fly tying, you have to make every turn of thread count. Superfluous turns can ruin a small fly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SearchingSolitude 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 I don't use special tools for small flies. #18 is average for these parts. Actually it's too large for winter fishing. I/we tie and fish flies down to size 28 from November thru early March, although I tie down to #24 Midge dries myself but that's only because it is hard to source hooks smaller than #24. When I tie #20-#24 I sometimes use a 3x Magnifier attached to my light but the critical thing is thread placement. Don't use three wraps if two will do and tie with 14/0 or at largest 8/0 thread. -Searching!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TOM PRUETT 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 I was using 8/0 thread ! Everything was moving LOL AND my fat fingers were in the WAY :wallbash: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
utyer 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 Patience, and practice are the only cures. Some 8/0 thread is too big for those small hooks. Another thing, in that size the 3906 isn't the best hook. A better hook would be a 3xf wire hook for tiny dry flies. My advice would be to start with a thread midge. Pick a 12/0 thread in the right color, and sStart your thread about 1/4 of the way back. Then start your tail tie in slightly less halfway back. After three wraps, look at your tails, and adjust the size. Its easier to start with them a little long, and pull the butts back to size the tails. Now holding the tips of the tails slightly above the hook shank, wrap back in even touching turns to over the point. Remember to keep your thread flat by unwinding the twists. Revese the direction of the thread wraps and wrap back to the tie in point. Thats enough body. Tie in a hackle, and wrap 4 to 5 turns to the eye. Form a head, and your done. We ALL have fingers that are "too big" for this job, and many of us have eyes that need a little help when tying this small. My next suggestion would be a griffith gnat. This is nothing more than an ulta tiny wooly worm. Start your thread, and tie in a tiny grizzly hackle by the tip over the hook point. Stroke the tip barbs back to keep them from getting tied down. I usually make three wraps of thread behind the hackle and then tie in one or 2 peackock herls just in front of the hackle. Take the thread to the eye, wind the herl in the opposite direction as the thread. Now palmer wind the hackle forward 5 or 6 turns and tie off. You can substitute soft flues from goose wings and turkey wings for different shades in the body. Use the secondary (rounded) feathers not the primary wing quills. Start with an 18, and stick with it until you can make them over and over again, then move down to a 20. When you can tie a dozen all the same, then move down again. Tying flies this small just takes practice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iso18 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 I tie flies down to #32 on my griffin odyssey.Like has been said,practice,small thread,less is more.Usually on #26 and smaller i simply make a thread body and an up right cdc wing.Or thread and anton for a spinner immitation.I thoguht it pretty ridiculous when i started tying #28's and 32's.But after u have 30 + fish days on thread and a cdc wing it gets you to thinking less is usually best.Just keep at it you will get it. shane Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruce Derington 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 Tom, how long have you been tying flies/ how many flies have you tied, total. I think I was reading, not long ago, that you were in pursuit of materials , vice, ect. Tying midges require, as those above mentioned, the correct materials. 8/0 is too big, U Tyer has givin you valuable info, and mastering each pattern before you move to another is some great advice, learn that a razor blade can used when the fly doesn't turn out right. Practice, Practice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FishyboY 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 maybe try an easier midge pattern. like a thread midge. that only requires thread and ribbing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bugsy 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 That step-by-step = :poop: Here is some free reading for you: http://books.google.com/books?id=WxpvoYxhM...p;q&f=false http://books.google.com/books?id=Moe9UglHq...p;q&f=false You should also be able to find plenty of tiny fly patterns on the pattern database here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnP 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 The Griffith gnat is a good one to try. Just peacock herl body and palmered grizzly hackle. Best of all, it catches fish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dezod 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 The single best thing I did was start big. At one point I wanted to be able to tie #18 BWO parachutes. I thought it was impossible. Someone recommentded that I try to tie "down to that size" so I tied one on a #12, then 3 #14, then 6 #16 and then to the #18. I now tie them routinely down to #24. Working down to that size helped me get a feel for the ammount of material I should use as well as proportions which was my main problem getting started. Hope this helps. C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arkansas Mike 0 Report post Posted April 25, 2010 Bruce and Utyer summed it up: Practice. A little time at the vice and you'll be tying #32's with no problem. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TOM PRUETT 0 Report post Posted April 26, 2010 THANKS GUYS!! Iam looking at get a The Midge jaw for The Professional Dyna-King and Midge tools : I tied 10 flys #14 And i think iam going to stay with TIEMCO hook the 200r 3xL 1x fine is a nice hook And work my way up !!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites