Getting very frustrated!! Need some tips..

[JSzymczyk 0]

I also prefer to wrap with the rotary function of a vise, I think it's easier to maintain steady pressure on the herl that way.

 

:thumbsup:

 

[Robert M 0]

You may want to soak some of the peacock herl in some warm water with a little oil in it for about 10 minutes prior to wrapping it in. It sometimes helps with older brittle herl or cheap craft store herl. But the ticket is using several strands at once with or without thread backup.

[c-denby 0]

Thanks everyone.. I really appreciate the feedback I have received... I am definitely more confident working with herl now.. BUT am still curious as to what you guys do when you can only use 1 strand of herl when making a body or thorax on a very small wet or dry fly??? I could possibly twist it together with a strand of thread but sometimes i've tried making such a small body that if I twist the herl it causes too much bulk?? am I just trying to make it "too" perfect??

 

 

Cheers

Chris

[fishabuoy 0]

Chris -

 

how small of a fly are we talking here? what size hook / pattern are you tying? You might get a slightly different answer for specific techniques/ties.

[Silver Doctor 0]

If you are talking small wraps of peacock like on a Royal Coachman first of all use the herl close to the eye of the feather, better Herl and stronger. The second tip I can give you is practice, tie, tie, tie. I tied commercially for 35 years now. Take some classes from a qualified instructor.

[JSzymczyk 0]

herl from the eye of a peacock feather is much smaller than the herl from the rest of it. Packages of "strung" herl are not from the eye.

[c-denby 0]

I am tying a custom pattern that a friend made up for brookies.. It is being tied on a #20 Sedge hook.. and the herl will make up about 1/3 of the body! this is why I get frustrated.. I was just grinding the herl in a coffee grinder and touch dubbing it, Which does work BUT does not give you quite the full dense look to the body.. But at the same time it needs to remain very small..

 

I know this is an isolated incident where I need to use only 1 strand of herl and have to be very careful not to build the body up too quickly.. Most of the tips/techniques that you guys have told me will work great for basically every other fly pattern that I might encounter but for doing one so small I guess I will just have to take my time and remember not to get upset even after i'm tying in attempt number 7.. I do understand that when working with such brittle materials and in such a narrow work space that extreme patience is absolutely necessary and I will make sure I take me time from now on..

 

If I ever do finish a few of these flies, I'll post some pics so you can all see how small it really is..

Thanks again..

 

Cheers

Chris

[Robert M 0]

I am tying a custom pattern that a friend made up for brookies.. It is being tied on a #20 Sedge hook.. and the herl will make up about 1/3 of the body! this is why I get frustrated.. I was just grinding the herl in a coffee grinder and touch dubbing it, Which does work BUT does not give you quite the full dense look to the body.. But at the same time it needs to remain very small..

 

I know this is an isolated incident where I need to use only 1 strand of herl and have to be very careful not to build the body up too quickly.. Most of the tips/techniques that you guys have told me will work great for basically every other fly pattern that I might encounter but for doing one so small I guess I will just have to take my time and remember not to get upset even after i'm tying in attempt number 7.. I do understand that when working with such brittle materials and in such a narrow work space that extreme patience is absolutely necessary and I will make sure I take me time from now on..

 

If I ever do finish a few of these flies, I'll post some pics so you can all see how small it really is..

Thanks again..

 

Cheers

Chris

 

 

Chris try presoaking the herl before tying in it might help. When I tied 100 flies for a caddis swap many moons ago the pattern was 90% herl and until I learned that tying several pieces at once was the ticket I presoaked the herl in some hair conditioner and water. It did help.

[fishabuoy 0]

Chris -

 

I think spinning the herl around a loop of your choice of fine thread should work just fine on that. Just make each wrap count, take as few as possible to tie in and secure your materials, and as you say, patience with steady but light pressure in your wraps.... Part of the "fun" (for me at least) in tying small flies is the challenge of working in such a small space - especially if you've seen my notoriously "flubber" digits

 

enjoy!

BV

[flytire 0]

tie a couple on a bigger size to get comfortable with tying the herl

 

if its tied on a 20, youll probably only need 2-3 wraps of herl at most.

 

i dont see how wetting the herl will stop it from breaking. all it would do is matte the herls.

 

if you are tying the herl in by the tips, you will have to trim them down an inch or two

[flytyer56 0]

When I tie with herl I always wrap the herl around the thread, and then wrap the thread and herl together like the other guys. It works great and the herls don't break while winding.

[Rob Knisely 0]

Simpler than it seems...

 

Before you tie it in: Grab the peacock herl by the butt end in one hand, the tip in the other. Give a good yank and it will break at the weakest point... this is your starting tie-in point for the feather.

 

Then, tie it (whether one or four herls are used) starting with a "fairly" loose thread wrap, another almost loose wrap in front of the first, then a tight one for the third thread wrap. Gives a bit of a "cushion" for the fragile stem. If you start off tightly cinching the herl to the shank you will cut into the stem, then pulling it to the side to wrap pretty much rips it. Needs a little give that gradually gets tighter. I see why this works in my head but it's hard to explain. Perhaps distribution of force in gradually decreasing degrees?

 

Finally, BE GENTLE! For added durability on an non-reinforced body you can lay down a coat of cement just before wrapping the herl on. Wrap the herl almost to the breaking point. And pay attention to the little details, like how the stem flattens around the shank and how the fibers stick out in a certain direction, front or back of the stem, as you wrap.