sniksoh 0 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 i think imj gonna go with the ross fly stik 10wt. what size line should i get with this? or does anyone have any suggestion on line type. i dont want to spend to much on line, was thinkin of getting bass pro shops bass bug line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flyfish Dog 0 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 I like wulff bass taper but any bass specific taper will. But keep in mind the best money is spent on line though. Rio Clouser taper line is great also as I use Intermediate a lot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
salmonid 0 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 http://www.statesman.com/sports/outdoors/p...has-wealth-of-… This link may not work so if not, Google; Austin Statesman Bob Pool and look for bass fishing stories. This guy is unbelievable!! He describes what he looks for in a bass rod. "Tie a red shop rag onto your leader and punch out a 60' cast. If the rod won't do it, it isn't a good bass rod." He mentions liking several of the stiff, shorter, heavy line weight rods, like TFO's and others. Look this guy up and pick his brain. Just a terrific fisherman and program presenter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sniksoh 0 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 what size line should i go with. do i match it to the rod or the reel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
day5 0 Report post Posted October 28, 2010 What the heck are you casting with a 10wt? Do you need a rod that big? Over lining makes the rod load faster (less line out) but also makes for shorter casts. Under lining the rod makes for longer casts but you have to carry more to get the rod to load. Me I like my lines at the rating but ratings are a crap shoot so ........it is what it is...... Check out the new smallmouth tapper line from rio. It should be a nice casting line. You should also have a full sink line and a intermediate line. Intermediate lines are a MUST for lake bass. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sniksoh 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2010 What the heck are you casting with a 10wt? Do you need a rod that big? Over lining makes the rod load faster (less line out) but also makes for shorter casts. Under lining the rod makes for longer casts but you have to carry more to get the rod to load. Me I like my lines at the rating but ratings are a crap shoot so ........it is what it is...... Check out the new smallmouth tapper line from rio. It should be a nice casting line. You should also have a full sink line and a intermediate line. Intermediate lines are a MUST for lake bass. well i have a six weight now and i have a hard time pulling bass out of weeds and muck with it. i fish the kdm rat fly alot wich is on top of the mats and when the bass grab it and pull it through i just want a rod that i can pull them out with. do you think i will be ok with an 8 weight? an intermediate is a full sink line isnt it? as you can tell i havnt bought much line or rods and im trying to get toknow more about em. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
day5 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2010 Get an 8wt. I think a 10 is to heavy and I think you will end up regretting it. The intermediate is a slow sinking line. But it will keep a straighter line between you fly and the rod. This will give you a much better feel for the strike. Its a must for 10 fow and shallower. I like a 15 foot intermediate head. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayneb 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2010 Hi Sniksoh; A good, inexpensive bass bug taper floating line would be an Orvis clearwater line. They are 1/2 weight heavier than normal and a front loaded taper, great for turning over heavy, wind resistant flies. I kinda feel as others do that a 10wt is overkill 8wt or 9wt max should be more than adequate but, to each his own. I typically cast an 8wt glass rod and can cast the big wind resistant stuff with ease. A 9wt glass rod such as a Garcia 2406 glass rod, could probably cast baitcasting lures if you wanted it to. TFO pro and/or Lefty Kreh series rods are really good too. I have a tfo pro 9ft 8wt and it's a great caster and a real bargain. I'm biased towards fiberglass rods and you could pick up an 8wt/9wt glass rod off ebay for a fraction of what you would pay for a new rod. Advantages: glass rods are more durable, slower action makes it easier to cast open loops that assist in casting some of the big,heavy, wind resistant bugs. Disadvantage: glass rods are heavy. good luck with your choices; Wayneb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JSzymczyk 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2010 Get a 9 foot 8 weight. Cut the tip off at a foot or so down and put a top guide on. Get a 9 weight "bass" or "pike" taper line. Cut off the tip of the line just as it starts to level out at the tip. Put on a heavy leader and a big fly. Take 10 minutes to learn how to cast it. You should be able to handle nearly any largemouth in heavy cover with this, or just about any other freshwater fish. LMB fishing is often about getting fish away from cover, and they're not long runners. In my experiences down in Alabama and Florida, the reel's drag was never used. The reel simply holds the line, so there is no need to get stupid about an expensive reel for LMB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flyfish Dog 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2010 When you get the opportunity to catch a big bass you are going to wishing you had a 10wt. Especially around weeds and scructures. Sure you can do it with a 6wt but it definetly does not stop a bulldozering bass heading back away to its hideout and every time you will lose it. A fast 8wt may be a good starting point but it still not as good as 10wt. Targeting big bass wont get you a lot of fish either but the constant use of rather large flies in the 6-8"+ range will not be benefical on anything lighter than a 9 wt overlined with 10 wt line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
day5 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2010 If I can keep a 12 pound steelhead out of the brush in current with a 7wt or an 8wt a 10 wt is over kill for a 7 pound LMB in a lake. IMHO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pelhament 0 Report post Posted October 29, 2010 TFO makes a 7'6" 8wt that I love using for bass. It can throw a full bass taper line with a monster deer hair bug and pull 15lb carp out of the weeds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flyfish Dog 0 Report post Posted October 30, 2010 The flies I use are in no way able to throw with a 8wt without wearing full protective armour. I would rather use the right gear to throw some of my biggest meanest flies then to just simply try to lop a fly out as it only so far with that ker plunk feeling and most likely slam it against your rod on thforward cast and breaking it! Why beat yourself? Like trying use your fist to pound a board in and you have a have a framing hammer by your feet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curtis Fry 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2010 My 3 cents on the matter... I fish for bass and panfish a good portion of the year and mostly from a big bass boat. I usually string up 4 to 6 rods. I don't like 9 footers as much for the mere fact that they don't fit nicely on the boat. Seems silly, but it makes a world of difference. I also find myself "flipping" heavier flies into cover and it's much more difficult for me to do it with a 9 footer. Also, when fishing overhanging trees, bushes etc, the shorter length is another advantage. As far as regular casting, I can adjust the stroke to fit the length of rod I'm throwing. Now the big thing I run into is matching the fly and cover to the rod -- NOT the size of the fish. People too many times get hung up on the fish size aspect, but IMO, that's really not got as much to do with it. I've caught huge trout and big bass on my 6 weight with no problemo. Try casting a heavily weighted striper minnow 50 feet into a boil with a 6 weight. Ain't pretty and you can't keep it up for more than a few casts without getting a flacid casting arm. I like the Sage Bass lineup (6, 8, 10 wts) and fish them along with another 6 wt and a smaller 4 wt for the smallish 'Gills. I fish the 10 wt in order to throw big topwater or very heavily weighted weedless creations into the muckety-muck. I can't do that with any accuracy or efficiency with a 6 or even 8 wt. That way, rather than switch flies, I switch rods. My gear buddy has something like 20 rods stored on board all rigged up, so I'm trying to at least keep up with that... But, of course, everyone will give you advice on what they have and use personally. Go to a shop and have them string up some rods for you. Try casting with all sizes and weights of flies as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henry Franklin 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2010 Hey, sniksoh. This topic is helping me out a great deal, thanks for bringing it up. It might help people out , if we could get some leader info. for casting the big bugs and streamers. (maybe a how to make your own) The pole, line and leader all need to work together. My apologies if I should not have brought this up in your topic. Henry F. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites