Fureld Leaders?

[FrequentTyer 0]

My board is pretty much 'standard issue'.

Those are some high "standards"! Sounds like a really nice setup.

[perchjerker 0]

It is a major improvement over my original board, which had holes drilled into holes for peg adjustments. I copied Skip Shorb's idea for the micro-switch. The "T" track (sliding drapery track will also work) and a soft (dress makers) tape measure permanently affixed to the top make layout a snap!

 

perchjerker

[ditz2 0]

For those interested....I finished 3 4# mono leaders and 1 leader made of thread. I really like the feel of the mono leaders. I found that the leader made of thread was very limp. I did try one of the mono leaders in the back yard and I did not find it to cast any better than tied leaders, if as good. It was quite windy so I am not sure it was a good test. I have not yet tried the leader made of thread. I am not an outstanding caster so that may have a lot to do with the less than exciting performance that I had expected.

 

The video that I posted earlier does not give you a true furled leader. It produces only a 2 step leader plus the tippet but it does produce a leader that feels very similar to the true furled leaders. I have not yet casted one these leaders yet.

[Faster Fish 0]

I made my own jig with adjustable pegs. That way you can vary the leader formula. I am still expirmenting with different configurations. I use old knotted leader forumlas as a guild for peg placement and thread wraps. they work out great. I also include an orange section for an indicator butt or tip. I use a blind stich thread, it has no "fuzzies". But I sometimes use mono or floro depending on what I want the leader to do. I also bought some mini tippet rings that I tie into the end. I usually put the rings on before I twist the thread, although I have been known to forget now and then. Check this site out http://furledleaders.proboards.com/index.cgi?

[trez 0]

perchjerker,

Would you be willing to share pictures and specs, I'd like to build me one.

Hope so....and thanks,

Trez

[perchjerker 0]

trez:

 

When it comes to posting photos, at least more than one, on such sites, I am a total Ludite. I am more than happy to share information and photos of my set up. Let me give it a try, and if I don't succeed, I will PM you.

 

Here they are!

1) Motor and three gears inside motor/gear box

2) Furling hooks on outside of motor/gear box (on old board)

3) Top view of motor/gear box showing dimmer switch (rheostat)

4) Top lateral view of motor/gear box on board showing both rheostat and ON/OFF toggle switch

5) View down board from tippet end to butt end

6) View down board from butt end to tippet end

7) Open mid-section joint

8) Closed mid-section joint

9, 10, & 11) Back end, lateral (side), and front end views of the satellite gear supports and the 'friction fit' motor box mounting system

12) Tension weight cable pulley at very tip end of the board

13) Tin can containing lead fishing weights as the Tension Weight, suspended by the cable

14 & 15) Tension hook and carrier in place with weight cable barely showing on the left side of the hook, and bottom photo of tension hook carrier to show 'keel' that keeps it in the track. Tippet loop would be around right hook.

16) 'Relief' well at the end of the "T" track. Essential to insert and remove pegs from the track.

 

My pegs are 3/4 inch PVC pipe about 4 inches long, and have a wooden plug epoxied into one end that has been drilled to accept a 1/4" X 20 hex nut, all of which has been epoxied into place. A 1/4" X 20 bolt screws into the end of the peg and tightens against the inside of the"T" track top.

 

I use a sewing machine motor to drive it, and the rheostat to regulate the speed. I also have a micro=switch,not shown, attached on one side of the board that I can move up and down the board to the pre-set reduction point that will turn the motor off when both the twisting and furling reductions have reached that point. Both legs are twisted simultaneously, and when reduced by the desired amount, the motor is automatically turned off. I then manually turn it off by means of a toggle switch mounted on the motor/gear box. At this time, the butt twisting loops are removed from their respective hooks and are both transferred to the central furling hook, and the motor then turned on. The leader begins to lengthen as it starts to furl and regains about one-half of the length lost during twisting; stops, and then resumes reduction until the tension hook carrier contacts the micro-switch actuator, turning things off again. I now have a furled leader that only need loops put into each end.

 

Since these photos were taken, I have put a 200# test ball-bearing snap-swivel between the tippet end threads and the tension weight hook. This allows the leader to "relax" while being furled, eliminating the need to hang it an letting it relax after completion of the furling.

 

I use two old ironing boards to set the board on for making leaders. They work great! No more STOOP LABOR!!

 

I hope this is all clear. If not, please feel free to contact me with any additional questions you may have.

 

Regards

 

perchjerker

[perchjerker 0]

trez:

 

When it comes to posting photos, at least more than one, on such sites, I am a total Ludite. I am more than happy to share information and photos of my set up. Let me give it a try, and if I don' succeed, I will PM you.

 

Here they are!

1) Motor shaft and three gears inside box

2) Furling hooks on outside of motor/gear box (on old board)

3) Top view of motor/gear box showing dimmer switch (rheostat)

4) Top lateral view of motor/gear box on board (new)

5) View down board from tippet end to butt end

6) View down board from butt end to tippet end

7) Open mid-section joint

8) Closed mid-section joint

9, 10, & 11) Back end, lateral (side), and front end views of the satellite gear supports and the 'friction fit' motor box mounting system

12) Tension weight cable pulley at very tip end of the board

13) Tin can containing lead fishing weights as the Tension Weight, suspended by the cable

14 & 15) In place photo, and bottom photo of tension weight connector

16) 'Relief' well at the end of the "T" track. Essential to insert and remove pegs from the track.

 

My pegs are 3/4 inch PVC pipe about 4 inches long, and have a wooden plug epoxied into one end that has been drilled to accept a 1/4" X 20 hex nut, all of which has been epoxied into place. A 1/4" X 20 bolt screws into the end of the peg and tightens against the inside of the"T" track top.

 

I use a sewing machine motor to drive it, and the rheostat to regulate the speed. I also have a micro=switch,not shown, attached on one side of the board that I can move up and down the board to the pre-set reduction point that will turn the motor off when both the twisting and furling reductions have reached that point. Both legs are twisted simultaneously, and when reduced by the desired amount, the motor is automatically turned off. I then manually turn it off by means of a toggle switch mounted on the motor/gear box. At this time, the butt twisting loops are removed from their respective hooks and are both transferred to the central furling hook, and the motor then turned on. The leader begins to lengthen as it starts to furl and regains about one-half of the length lost during twisting; stops, and then resumes reduction until the tension hook carrier contacts the micro-switch actuator, turning things off again. I now have a furled leader that only need loops put into each end.

 

Since these photos were taken, I have put a 200# test ball-bearing snap-swivel between the tippet end threads and the tension weight hook. This allows the leader to "relax" while being furled, eliminating the need to hang it an letting it relax after completion of the furling.

 

I set things up on two old ironing boards. They work great! No more stoop labor!!!

 

I hope this is all clear. If not, please feel free to contact me with any additional questions you may have.

 

Regards

 

perchjerker