Sealing Foam?

[ColonelMel 0]

I've been tying a smaller version of Breambusters Predator fly (14 2X hook) for bluegill and it works great! But after a few casts, and a couple of fish, the amount of foam is so small it gets soaked and begins to sink. Has anyone tried sealing foam in some way? I'm thinking the epoxy or varnish or enamel or whatever will simply soak in and make it heavy anyway. Thought I'd ask before beginning to experiment!

[flytire 0]

might be the type of foam youre using

[perchjerker 0]

I have been making and fishing foam bugs for about 15 years now, and have never had this problem after only a couple of fish, as you state. However, after numerous fish, and an hour or two of use, they do soak up some water. I simply squeeze the water out and keep fishing. A good paste-type dry fly floatant should work. As flytirenoted, it also may be the type of foam you are using. I use the "Fun Foam" available in the craft stores.

 

perchjerker

[BigBrownTrout 0]

I will use Scotch Guard on my foam flies before fishing. It helps keep them clean and floating much longer than anything else I've tried.

[northerfly 0]

I came across this link with a video demonstrating an ant pattern that uses foam coated with clear Goo or something similar. Not sure how it will work but it looks interesting.

 

http://dailyflytyer.com/2011/07/hard-body-ant-curtis-fry

[MowestFlyfisher 0]

i coat my poppers i make out of foam with sally hansens and it seems to work just fine but it maybe because they are bigger flies.

[Horseshoes 0]

I will use Scotch Guard on my foam flies before fishing. It helps keep them clean and floating much longer than anything else I've tried.

 

 

I use scotch guard for all my dries. It is a great product.

[ColonelMel 0]

Flytire, I'm using the craft foam, I got it at Wally World. Is something else better?

[bowfin47 0]

I'm old school and still like the denser foam found in flip flops. Craft foam is much lighter than flip flop foam, but flip flop foam will never absorb water...

 

FYI

 

I was first shown how to tie with flip flop foam by the late Doug Christian in 1984. Doug was a member of the Ozark Fly Fishers of St Louis, Mo. An accomplished fly tier and twice the recipient of the Southern Council’s Fly Tyer of the Year Award (1993 & 2001). Doug was a true gentleman, a tremendous educator, and a consummate fly tyer and fisherman. Doug became well know for his pioneering work with craft foam. Although, he'd have laughed at that "pioneering statement. Here is one of Doug's patterns:

 

Doug's Craw - http://www.ozarkflyfishers.org/fly/dougcryfish.html

[CoachBob 0]

Okay, here's how it works.

Craft foam (EVA)comes in various thicknesses, usually 2mm, 3mm, 6mm and 5/8inch.

The thinner the foam the less air in the cells and the less flotation. EVA foam does not readily absorb water. Coating the foam with CA glue, or silicone, or polish may make the fly more durable but hasn't been seen to increase flotation (based on 1000s of flies tied).

Smaller foam bodies require smaller/lighter hooks and shorter/lighter legs. A single width of 2mm foam has very little float strength and can be submerged simply from the water on the fly caused by surface tension or downward drag from tippet.

As a foam addict I freely admit that tiny dries can float as well with other materials than foam. For anything using a size 12 or larger hook, foam is the best way to go.

[Al Beatty 0]

Okay, here's how it works.

Craft foam (EVA)comes in various thicknesses, usually 2mm, 3mm, 6mm and 5/8inch.

The thinner the foam the less air in the cells and the less flotation. EVA foam does not readily absorb water. Coating the foam with CA glue, or silicone, or polish may make the fly more durable but hasn't been seen to increase flotation (based on 1000s of flies tied).

Smaller foam bodies require smaller/lighter hooks and shorter/lighter legs. A single width of 2mm foam has very little float strength and can be submerged simply from the water on the fly caused by surface tension or downward drag from tippet.

As a foam addict I freely admit that tiny dries can float as well with other materials than foam. For anything using a size 12 or larger hook, foam is the best way to go.

 

Hi CoachBob & group,

 

Gretchen & I have learned over the years when tying with Craft Foam (like the stuff from Walmart)that stretching it so it lays in place real nice (and smooth) tends to squeeze much of the floatation out of the foam and can cause a fly to sink very soon after hitting the water. With that thought in mind we cut our foam strips to shape so they LAY in place to form a smooth body rather than having to stretch the strip to make a smooth body. In other words we kind of push the foam strip in place on the hook rather than pull on the strip. It takes some practice but "pushing the foam in place" rather than "pulling on the strip to stretch in in place" really inproves the fly's floatation. Take care & ...

 

Tight Lines - Gretchen & Al Beatty

www.btsflyfishing.com

[flybeetlefly 0]

Go to Wal-mart or Kmart and pick up a bottle of Sally Hanson's hard as nails. It is with the finger nail polish.

Coat your bodies with it and let it dry and you will be floating high and dry.

[iso18 0]

Go to Wal-mart or Kmart and pick up a bottle of Sally Hanson's hard as nails. It is with the finger nail polish.

Coat your bodies with it and let it dry and you will be floating high and dry.

I agree!

shane

[ColonelMel 0]

Thanks for all the input. But I can just see it now, hanging over the tying bench.. half a dozen pairs of flip flops in different colors......

[bowfin47 0]

Thanks for all the input. But I can just see it now, hanging over the tying bench.. half a dozen pairs of flip flops in different colors......

 

Just a half dozen??? Heck, I've got a lot more than just six! HA!