Markbob 0 Report post Posted September 2, 2011 I know this fly doesn't specifically imitate any insect in nature but I am sure that there are "proper" proportions for the various parts. I believe I have the tail correct, but I think my soft hackle collar may be a bit too long. Am I right? Anyone have a good tip on selecting the proper sized feather for this purpose? Thanks oh, one more question. Has any of you ever used up a partridge skin to the point of needing a new one? I am thinking of purchasing some that are on sale and thinking I am fine with one but if I should get a second, I need to know. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
perchjerker 0 Report post Posted September 2, 2011 As I have not tied soft hackles in quite sometime, I am putting forth what I recall about hackle length on soft hackles, without resorting to my 'library'. It is my recollection that the hackle tips should extend back just to the point of the hook. If my recollection is anywhere near accurate, then your hackle is definitely too long. I cannot help you on your second question. Sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
utyer 0 Report post Posted September 2, 2011 I have always tied mine after Sylvester Nemes first book (The Soft-Hackled Fly.) He ties shorter bodies (just back to the hook point,) many were just single strand floss. The hackles were slightly longer than the bodies. The lenght should be somewhere about the hook bend. Tails were not used on many of the patterns, but they were included on three. Yours looks pretty good. I have gone through 5 or 6 skins in the last 35 years. Right now I have two skins, one is pretty well used up, and one is about 1/4 gone. I also use hen backs, and pheasant I like the hen pheasant body feathers when I can get them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Markbob 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2011 I have always tied mine after Sylvester Nemes first book (The Soft-Hackled Fly.) He ties shorter bodies (just back to the hook point,) many were just single strand floss. The hackles were slightly longer than the bodies. The lenght should be somewhere about the hook bend. Tails were not used on many of the patterns, but they were included on three. Yours looks pretty good. I have gone through 5 or 6 skins in the last 35 years. Right now I have two skins, one is pretty well used up, and one is about 1/4 gone. I also use hen backs, and pheasant I like the hen pheasant body feathers when I can get them. So ordering one skin in each color that I want will suffice for quite a while. Got it thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FishDragon 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2011 Where is the sale at? I need to get some skins but might have to wait awhile unless it is a really good deal. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Markbob 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2011 Where is the sale at? I need to get some skins but might have to wait awhile unless it is a really good deal. Thanks Feather Craft has them for $20. Its not a crazy good sale but they usually run closer to $25 or $30 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hankaye 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2011 Markbob, Howdy As I'm a learner about most of these things you can take this or leave it. I was reciently offered a copy of Roger Fogg's "A Handbook of North Country Trout Flies" (copyright 1988) at the bottom of page 69 Last sentence then continues on page 70, top paragraph Mr. Fogg states; "There may be a great deal of debate as to the correct proportion of hackle fiber length to body length when dressing a fly. Personal preferences may well play a part and indeed, I do find that I will vary the size of feather according to the specific pattern I am dressing. For example, a beetle imitation would seem to call for a short-fibered hackle while a fly imittating an ephemeral adult would suggest a rather larger hackle. As a working compromise for the average pattern, my advise would be to selecta hackle with a fiber length approximately 1-1/2 to 2 times the length of the body. This advise, of course, depends entirely on your judgement in getting the body length correct, but that matter ought to be clear enough by now." Hoping this helps with the proportions. Can't help ya with the bird hides... hankaye Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnP 0 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 You might check eBay. I found some nice partridge skins for $15 with free shipping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soft-hackle 0 Report post Posted September 6, 2011 Hi, I have read so many books, seen so many wingless wets, and tied many as well. It is my take that hook shank length plays an important part in figuring body length. It is also a matter of preference and geographical location. The same thing goes for hackle length and even the number of turns of hackle. European and tiers from the British Isles use less hackle turns than those in the USA. Also English soft-hackles often have longer hackles. As for me, most of my standard soft hackle bodies are tied so if you draw a straight line down to the barb from the tail end of the body, it will intersect a spot half way between the barb point and its rear point. Of course, I vary this occasionally depending upon what I am trying to represent with the fly. I like my hackles not too long, but not too short Again, it IS a matter of preference. The fish don't measure. Take a look at some of my flies: WOODCOCK & ORANGE This fly, although tied on a standard wet fly hook, is tied traditionally with sparse hackle tied more perpendicular to the hook shank. IRON BLUE DUN This is what is commonly called a flymph because the thread upon which the body is dubbed shows through. Notice the body length. The hackle length is just a bit shorter than I normally tie. TUPS INDISPENSIBLE This fly is proportioned perfectly as far as my preferences. Good luck in your tying, Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites