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Fly Tying
Kirk Dietrich

Balsa Bug, no cut hook slot

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Just thought I'd share a little idea that works for doing my Rabid Dog minnows. Should work with poppers too, just have to use two thicker outer pieces.

If the picture doesn't tell the story, feel free to ask questions.

 

Kirk

 

DSC_4368-1.jpg

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Your work on this one is ridiculous, Kirk. Did you paint it with an airbrush? Thing looks like a Rapala

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Looks great and that is a great idea. I start with the balsa dowels so I just cut the slot. If starting with flat pieces of balsa I can see that your idea would be great.

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Thanks AGN and Pete. I used some gold potatoe wrapper foil rubber cemented to the balsa body and then textured with the checkered grip on my x-acto pen knife. Then I used some thinned out acrylic paint and dabbed it on with foam mascara applicators and of course painted the eye with dowels and the gill with a fine paint brush.

 

Rhen, thanks. I use balsa dowels for some bugs that I cut out with brass tubing but on these larger sizes, I can't chuck the tubing in my drill. I may try make a more blocky shaped one like this and turning it down on a dremel and see if the hook slot stays centered. I actually found myself sanding the sides of my dowels flat when making this minnow bug.

 

This laminating method works pretty good as I make one long laminated stick with a slot in it and cut off the pieces to the size I need for the bodies. The square shape isn't to much of a big deal as once its glued to the hook a sharp knife, sandpaper, emory boards and/or dremel sanding drum make quick work of rounding off the edges and shaping the body. I think I'm going to try some actual popping bugs next.

 

Kirk

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Thanks Tide.

 

BF, I'm using a thick formula CA glue but no reason Elmer's or another wood glue wouldn't work; after all it is top coated with epoxy and when you glue the hook in the slot with CA glue, it wicks up in to the wood from the bottom inside the hook slot.

With the thick CA glue, I can press it together and it is good. With wood glue, I'd be inclined to maybe want to clamp it until dry.

 

Thanks,

Kirk

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hey kirk, just wondering if u have fished any of these yet and if so whats the action like on them? amazing work by the way, very creative

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Bigfoot, you're welcome, I hope you try it and have some success or that it gives you some offshoot ideas.

 

Cruz, thanks, just having fun.

Check out my Pattern Database upload with a tying description and a description on how it works. Its in the weighting and strip/pause/strip to give it the wobble and erratic action. Its not a consistent wobble on a straight pull like a lipped fly but it casts very easily, this 1/0 version that is about an inch and three quarters long casts easily with my 7wt. and I can even cast it with the 5wt but the 7 is better.

 

http://www.flytyingforum.com/pattern12539.html

 

Kirk

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Kirk:

 

Very nice work. Do you by any chance know the breaking strength of the wire you use for the front eye? I've always been curious about that stuff, but I could find no mention of the actual durability of that material (i.e. sure it'll work for black bass, but will it work for stripers?). Thanks.

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Whatfly, thanks. Good question.

 

Here is a link to the product I use. It is .030" SS wire for spinnerbaits. It takes a good solid pair of wire cutters to snip the wire. Not sure what the tensil strength is however with Hard Mason mono, the diameter is usually equal to the pound strength. For example, .020" Hard Mason is equal to about 20 lb. test breaking strength.

 

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/wire-lure-shafts/320608.aspx

 

I'm waiting on some avid redfishing friends to test these out on ten pound class or better redfish. Also, I make a slightly larger one on a tube that may wound up working best for larger fish.

 

Kirk

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yellow Elmers glue is water proof and far stronger than balsa. I am sure that it would also make a good sealer for the balsa after you finish shapeing.

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