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Gene L

When to use split thread dubbing?

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Geen experimenting with split thread dubbing and would like to know more. In what applications is it applicable? I think it would work great for dry flies and bodies that need to be slim, but am I missing something here?

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I seem to use either split thread or a full on wire brush i twist up, but the great advantage of the split thread is that it does not require any special tools (e.g dubbing twister), just requires some 'spinning' of the bobbin and you are good to build bodies. Other applications are only limited by your imagination, but i guess one is leeches. Wow actually you can do a lot, go wild!

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I use split thread alot something you can do with the split thread is make a dubbing loop split the thread on one leg of the loop and add one material like rabbit zonker cut off the hide then split the other leg of the loop and add flash or rubber legs then spin them together for a great effect for a collar on streamers

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IMHO a split thread technique would NOT be good for producing a slim body profile and here's why. Generally speaking, the materials you use for either a "split thread" or "dubbing loop" are bulkier with longer fibers that are hard to twist into the normal "dubbing noodle". The desired effect for a split thread dubbing technique is a spikey, fuzzy or generally "buggy" look. Having said this, flytying is about experimentation and developing your own style. So go ahead and do what you like. There are no real hard and fast rules. If you like it and it works (catches fish), who am I to say you are wrong?

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You can use split thread anytime you have thread that will split (not all will do that or do it well for me) and anywhere you want or need to lay dubbing. It is easy (usually) and fun to do, and it looks good. The final product is smaller than what you can do with a dubbing loop or wire brush, but it depends somewhat, I guess, on the look you want to achieve.

 

I do many split thread dubs, and they look and do well. When I am tying at shows, people always want to see how I'm doing it. It is a popular technique!

 

Ray

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I agree with Shoebop and harold. I only started using the split thread after joining this forum and seeing some of Hans Weilenmanns flies. I can't believe how much more buggy the flies look with split thread.

The dubbing loop always seem to add too much bulk so I only use that with big material on large flies now. i.e. rarely.

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I use splt thread generally on smaller flies, when I want a spikey effect without the thread build-up of a loop. With a loop, you have to form the loop, have two strands in the loop and tie it off. All of which adds extra layers of thread and bulk at the tie off point. With split thread there is no bulky tie off point, just a smooth transition from dubbing to thread.

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What commonly available threads (give size too, please) are easiest to split?

I've tried to split Danville 6/0 waxed nylon with a fairly typical stout-wire

bodkin and have found it difficul to near-impossible.

 

-Halfie

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Regardless of thread size, it is the 'lay' of the thread that is important. "Flat" threads will split much easier than a "Twisted" thread, as the fibers in a "flat" thread run parallel to one another. Those in a "twisted" thread are just that; twisted around each other, complicating separation, or splitting.

 

It seems only logical that the large the thread diameter, the easier it will be to 'split' it. The fineness of the point on the instrument you use to do the splitting with will also play a major role in the ease/difficulty realm.

 

Hope this helps.

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I use flat waxed threads, as mentioned above, for thread splitting usually. I like working with flat, waxed threads over others if I have them. They come in a few different sizes. Generally, I use a little larger thread, but whatever size I am using, I have the fly I am tying in the vise with the thread and bobbin hanging down below that. At that point, I slip my LEFT index finger (I am RIGHT handed) behind the hanging thread and let it rest and flatten out against that finger. Then with a sharply pointed instrument, bodkin, needle, etc., of some kind with a very small point (with NO burs) I separate the thread.

 

If I am using a twisted thread (non-flattened thread) or if my thread has spun while hanging, as thread often does, I spin it counter clockwise a few times before doing the split. That often seems to help me, as the motion untwists the hanging thread, and once the dubbing material is inserted, I spin it clockwise again until it is as tight as I would like it.

 

As mentioned above, though, I prefer flattened thread; it's easier that way.

 

I tie flies from around 22s to 5/0 or 6/0s, and I use split-thread dubbing techniques on any that I dub. I occasionally use loops if I want the dubbed area heavier, but I enjoy doing the split thread so much, it is by far my favorite.

 

Ray

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I've used 14/0 Gudbrod and 70 Denier flat thread (it's the brand with the triangle on the spool) and they're both a bit challenging, but I've not failed to split them with a regular bodkin.

 

I've not tried on other threads, I chose these because they're flat.

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i use 8/0 6/0 and 14/0. Sometimes I need to give a longer drop from the vice to allow the bobbin to untwist. Few occasions I need to unwind a wind, don't know why but it just doesn't intwist until I do?? But so far not had any couldn't split with a needle point.

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I use split thread alot something you can do with the split thread is make a dubbing loop split the thread on one leg of the loop and add one material like rabbit zonker cut off the hide then split the other leg of the loop and add flash or rubber legs then spin them together for a great effect for a collar on streamers

 

I would like to see this done. Does anyone know of a video on this?

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