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letumgo

Ginger Honey Dun Flymph (Leisenring-style hybrid)

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Ginger Honey Dun Flymph

Hook - Mustad Model R50/94848 (Size 12)

Thread - Pearsall's Gossamer Silk (Ash/No. 10)

Hackle - Honey Dun Hen Neck Feather (Natural) - prepared by stripping all the fibers from one side

Thorax - Silk Dubbing Brush (Natural Hares Ear dubbing on Ash Silk waxed with cobblers wax)

Tail - Pheasant Tail Fibers (Bleached Ginger)

 

PREPARATION (done before tying the fly):

- Create a silk dubbing brush by waxing a length of silk with cobblers wax. Lay the silk on a Clarks dubbing block and lay hares ear dubbing along the waxed silk. The dubbing needs to be very sparce, allowing some of the silk color to show thru between the dubbing fibers. Twist the silk to form a dubbing brush, and allow it to set for a while (helps the wax to dry, holding the dubbing fibers in place).

- When selecting the hackle feather, look for one with fiber length between 1.5 to 2 times the hook gap.

- Prepare the hackle feather by stripping off the fuzz at the base of the feather, and then strip all the fibers off the right-side of the feather. You will be left with a feather with fibers radiating from only one side of the hackle stem.

 

DETAILED TYING INSTRUCTIONS:

1) Mount hook in the vice

2) Pull out several inches of silk from the bobbin and wax it with cobblers wax. Wind the silk back onto the spool by twisting the spool. Leave enough silk to grasp onto to start the wraps.

3) Mount the tying thread with two tight wraps, just behind the eye of the hook. The cobblers wax helps hold the silk in place, while grabbing the hackle feather.

4) Tye in the hackle feather by the stem (feather should be facing out over the eye of the hook - tyed in with the good side towards the hook shank).

5) Tye in the silk dubbing brush, parallel to the hook shank (again leave the end hanging out over the eye of the hook).

6) Wrap the tying silk back towards the bend of the hook. Stop wrapping roughly halfway between the barb of the hook and the point.

7) Tye in four strands of pheasant tail fibers with two secure forward wraps. The length of the tail should be roughly the same length as the hook shank. Twist the butt ends of the pheasant tail fibers around the tying thead, then wrap forward to the midpoint of the hook shank. This will be the rear edge of where the thorax will be. Tye off the pheasant tail fibers with two wrap of thread. Untwist the pheasant tail fibers and clip off the excess. The tying thread should be hanging at roughly the midpoint of the hook shank.

7a)Now would be a good time to rewax the tying thread. Well waxed thread will later help strengthen the head of the fly. The wax will help lock-in the whip finish in the last step.

8) Grasp the silk dubbing brush in a hackle pliers. If it has come untwisted, give it a few twists to make sure the dubbing is captured in the twists of the silk. Wrap the dubbing brush back towards the midpoint of the hook, forming the thorax of the fly. Secure it in place with two wraps of the tying thread, then trim off any excess.

9) Grasp the tip of the hackle in a pair of hackle pliers. Make two or three wraps just behind the eye of the hook, then wind it back to the tying thread in three open spiral wraps. Secure the hackle with two wraps of tying thread, at the intersection of the abdomen and thorax (midpoint of shank). While keeping tension on the feather stem, trim off the excess hackle by placing one blade of your open scissors parallel to the hook shank. The scissor blade should be flush with the body. A firm tug on the hackle will slice off the excess, without harming any of the hackle fibers.

10) Wind the tying thread forward to the eye of the hook. Remember to wiggle the silk back-and-forth, as you wrap, so the hackle fibers are not trapped.

11) Pinch the front of the fly, forcing the hackle fibers to tilt back towards the tail. This helps get them out of the way, when forming the head.

12) Make a three turn whip finish to form the head of the fly. Clip off the tying thread and add a small drop of head cement or nail polish.

 

EDIT - PHOTOS ADDED TO CLARIFY TYING INSTRUCTIONS

 

Here are some photo showing the major steps in the tying sequence.

 

Materials all prepared and ready for tying: (prepared silk dubbing brush, hackle stripped, pheasant tail fibers, wax & sissors)

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Hook installed in vice and two wraps of thread: (Step 3)

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Feather tyed in: (Step 4)

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Dubbing brush tyed in and wrapped to the midpoint of the shank. Clip off the tag end of the silk and the butt end of the hackle stem. Now that I think about it, this is an important detail in helping to form the body taper. The silk thread and hackle stem, help build up the front of the fly a tiny bit, helping form a tapered profile in the finished fly. (Step 5/6 - along with a new intermediate detail)

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Tying in the pheasant tail fibers (I should have evened the tips again - oh well, I was focusing on the photos, rather than my tying): (Step 7)

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Pheasant tail and tread wrapped to the midpoint of the shank, secured and ends trimmed off: (Step 7)

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Dubbing brush wrapped back to the midpoint of the hook, secured with the tying thread and excess trimmed off: (Step 8)

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Finished flymph: (Steps 9 thru 12 completed without photos)

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Thanks guys. Glad you like the tutorial. I've gone back and clarified the tying instructions, plus add photos of the major tying steps, to make it easier for folks to try tying this fly. Have fun!

 

Thanks for the link Mike. I had not seen that article before. I have Allen's book, and highly recommend it for soft hackle flies. I actually met him last summer, but was to nervous to as him to sign his book for me. :-)

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