RichK 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 I'm getting to ready to order a bunch of stuff to get into tying. Do I need to have both 6/0 and 8/0 thread on hand or will 6/0 cover it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riffleriversteelheadslayer 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 6/0 is a bit thicker and stronger then 8/0 but with the propper thread control you shouldn't have to worry about bulk to much 6/0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
switch10 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 What size flies do you tie? I usually only use 6/0 thread on flies larger than size #12. Otherwise I use 8/0.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scott.bearden 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 Just stick with one size for right now. There is no apples to apples comparison of thread brands when it comes to measuring by the #/0 system. Denier is more equal footing and there are a few charts out there to show how thin each brand/size of thread really is. 6/0 of most brands will serve you well starting off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichK 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 Thanks, I'll just start off with some 6/0. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockworm 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 I have heard tyers say they use 8/0 (or 12/0 or 14/0) for all their tying, arguing this is a good way to minimize buildup. But judicious (read: thoughtful) use of thread is really a better way to achieve a low-bulk fly. The great advantage of 6/0 (or Pearsall's Gossamer, which has a similar diameter) is that it takes fewer turns of thread to cover the same length. (Translate that as less time to tye each fly.) I would start with the 6/0. You don't really need a smaller thread until you start tying below #16 or so. Conversely, you may want a spool of 3/0 for flies larger than about #6. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 buy 1 of each and try them out. Â thread is inexpensive. Â tie some thread on a hook and then break it. that will tell you how strong the thread is and how much tension you can wrap with it. break thread! Â i use 8/0 on sizes 2 - 26 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 I'm getting to ready to order a bunch of stuff to get into tying. Do I need to have both 6/0 and 8/0 thread on hand or will 6/0 cover it? Â Â There is no standard for the "aught" thread labeling system. One manufacturer's 8-0 can be another manufacturer's 12-0. Â The reliable system is by denier but other than UTC, no one else uses it much. See the chart below. Â Gudebrod 8/0 and and Bennechi 12/0 are both made of 70 denier polyester and both break at 15 ozs of tension. Â Uni 6/0 and Danville 6/0 are both nylon but Uni (130 denier) breaks at 29 oz tension and Danville (70 denier) breaks at 11 oz tension because is much thinner. Â If I were you, I would buy UTC because it is a non bonded thread. The tier controls how flat or rounded the tread lies and it can be split for split thread loop dubbing.UTC is nylon and nylon stretches before breaking. With experience, the stretch gives the tier a warning when the thread is about to break. Nylon also takes color very well. Â Whatever thread you buy, try to stick with that brand for a while to learn what you can and cannot do with it. Â Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrookTroutAngler 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2013 I pretty much agree with what has been said. I mainly tie dries and nymphs size 10-22, and I use 8/0 or 70 denier for all of that. I'll even use 8/0 on a size 6 woolly bugger. I reserve 6/0 and 3/0 for tying BIG streamers. Â I'd recommend 8/0. But like flytire said buy both and try them out to see what works best for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wvfishn 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2013 Without beating a dead horse, I agree with starting out with 6/0 and as you progress in tying you will find that other size thread works better for the particular size fly you are tying. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roofish 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2013 I could be wrong but my understanding of thread is this....... http://suite101.com/article/fly-tying-thread-and-explained-a358547 Â Â Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrequentTyer 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2013 The reliable system is by denier but other than UTC, no one else uses it much. See the chart below. Â No one else uses it (anymore) because it's not more reliable. If you are interested in diameter or breaking strength across threads of a given brand by a given manufacturer, then either system is fine. If you want to compare across manufacturers, no system works and you just have to try them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crackaig 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2013 One of the great sayings of the gentleman who taught me was, "You should use your thread as if it cost £5 an inch (which, if you buy it off me, it does)" That means I agree with what Mr Rockworm says. For the best examples of tying like this take a look at Hans Weilenmann's videos. The best example of tying this way I can cite.  Originally the finest silk that could be spun was called No1, Then they worked out how to spin one half that size so they called it "0" Each time they reduced it by half they added a "0" Writing out "00000000000000000" is cumbersome (and will not fit onto a small spool) so the convention became 2/0 (00) 3/0 (000) and so on. 7/0 would be half the size of 6/0 and 8/0 half the size of 7/0. Is any makers 8/0 1/4 the size of their 6/0? I've never seen any that is. That would mean that they do not stick to the size system. In other words not only is it no use in comparing between different makes, it means nothing even for one make. At best all it says is this thread is finer or thicker than that thread in the same range for the same manufacturer.  Denier is little better. It is based on the weight of a given length of a thread. This only takes us one step further. It is useful to compare threads of one kind with each other. But it doesn't work to compare across brands. I don't know what the difference in density between nylon and polyester is, but a conversion factor based on comparative density would have to be applied in order to use denier to compare Uni (polyester) with UTC (nylon) So that doesn't help much more.  A simple measurement of the thread will not work. Some threads are made to lie flat, (Danvills, UTC MP Split Second) some is braided or bonded. Some stretches others don't stretch as much.  All in all there is no useful system for sizing thread for fly tying. Get several different threads, find one you like to work with and stick to it. The wider the range you try, the more informed your decision becomes. Sorry its a learning curve you need to go through. No short cuts.  Cheers, C.  Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2013 All in all there is no useful system for sizing thread for fly tying. Get several different threads, find one you like to work with and stick to it. The wider the range you try, the more informed your decision becomes. Sorry its a learning curve you need to go through. No short cuts. BINGO!! well said Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riffleriversteelheadslayer 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2013 All in all there is no useful system for sizing thread for fly tying. Get several different threads, find one you like to work with and stick to it. The wider the range you try, the more informed your decision becomes. Sorry its a learning curve you need to go through. No short cuts. BINGO!! well said And another thing you might find out you will like different makers for different applications Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites