salty fly 0 Report post Posted April 8, 2013 I was wondering if you could do that with a shell casing cut down after the taper or where can one get their hands on that kind of tubing? Blane Most hardware stores have The brass tube, I got this stuff from ACE hardware.I guess you could a old bullet shell. What the heck its just makein stuff, makein stuff to make stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riffleriversteelheadslayer 0 Report post Posted April 8, 2013 I was thinking the same thing as Blane I got a couple 7mm mag casings I am going to try for panfish poppers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kirk Dietrich 0 Report post Posted April 8, 2013 Perchjerker, whom I haven't seen post in a while told me that when he does it, he doesn't drill all the way through the block so that he can pull the tube out of the block or rather doesn't have to push/pull the dowel out of the tube. After he drills the cylinders in the block to within a quarter inch or so from the bottom, he lays the block on its side and cuts the bottom off where the tube stopped. He then dumps out his dowels. He said, sometimes he glues the bottom back on and uses the block with holes for a tying tool holder. Kirk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phish 0 Report post Posted April 8, 2013 Only just helping the dude if one does not have the it. But yea there is absolutly no fun in it not making your own. As far as rifle cartridge brass, they tend to taper down to the rim so itm ay be ideal. Ace and Hobby Lobby or better yet support your local hobby store will have the tubular brass. Although I dont do it this way since I got the Steve Winters tools to turn out the bodies on the dremel but only the the smaller stuff tho. The bigger stuff go in drill press to turn down. If you know a machinist in your area you can have them cut teeths in the end of the brass tubes, it makes it easier to pull the plugs out after cutting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
salty fly 0 Report post Posted April 8, 2013 Perchjerker, whom I haven't seen post in a while told me that when he does it, he doesn't drill all the way through the block so that he can pull the tube out of the block or rather doesn't have to push/pull the dowel out of the tube. After he drills the cylinders in the block to within a quarter inch or so from the bottom, he lays the block on its side and cuts the bottom off where the tube stopped. He then dumps out his dowels. He said, sometimes he glues the bottom back on and uses the block with holes for a tying tool holder. Kirk Yes, Kirk is right, I do not drill all the way through the block,cut the block and all the plugs fall out of the block, getting the plug out of the block is a pain Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ditz2 0 Report post Posted April 9, 2013 I have a 9mm brass that I push the primer out and sharpened the rim with a fine file that I use to cut circles out of craft foam. I then glue the circles into cylinders for some small poppers. I sandwich rubber legs in between the disks on some of them. Not good for mass production but works for making a hand full at a time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yonkerj3 0 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Hey Salty Fly, I have just started making my own balsa poppers but am having a small issue. I am sure that you can help: what do you use to cut the slit/ channel for the hook? I have been using a dremel to make a channel but it always ends up being too wide. Do you just use a hobby saw? Thank you, J Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jolly Red 0 Report post Posted March 6, 2014 I cut the slot with a hacksaw blade. Wrap one end with some tape to make a handle. The rub the side fo the popper on some sandpaper held flat on a table top. This will leave a "line" aligned with the axis of the popper body. Use this "line" to align the saw for cutting the slot. Cut no deeper than necessary to get the hook completely below the surface of the body. This method is from the book "Fly Tying and Fisheing for Bass and Panfish" by Tom Nixon. Works really good. Just remember to not push down too hard on the saw blade while cutting. Oh, yes, before using the hacksaw blade, lay it on a flat surface and use a file to remove the set of the teeth, which is the projection of the teeth to the side. This will get the width of the cut just about right for most popper hooks. Care in cutting the slot will make it easy to get the hook glued in right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted March 6, 2014 Seconding Jolly Red's suggestion: I use a grinding wheel, though. If you look directly at the teeth of the standard hack saw blade, you'll see it's wavy. High dollar saws might not be so obvious, as the teeth might be slightly offset to each other. As Jolly says, this is the "Set," or (I believe) the kerf of the saw, designed as relief so the saw continues to cut and not bind. You don't need this relief, since you are cutting so shallow. File or grind the sides of the saw teeth to make it a straight line. Now your saw will cut a line only as wide as the metal of the saw, not the width of the kerf. When I use balsa or other woods, I actually like to go in about two or three times the width of the hook wire. I wrap one layer of thread on the hook and tie off. I put glue into the slot of the body, slide it onto the hook, then top it off with more glue. I've never had a body "crack" off the hook after doing this. I have had bodies glued on at surface level do that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted March 8, 2014 I don't trust the balsa not to split so wrap with thread after glueing in da hooks into a slot cut w/knife. Not a problem cutting and shaping them with knife and emery paper...ain't making them by the hundreds though. And I'd rather use cork...seems stronger... Splitting/ chipping when fishing...$.02. DL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yonkerj3 0 Report post Posted March 11, 2014 Denduke, those are great looking bugs. I really like how you wrap them with thread after the glue. Great idea. Thank you all for the responses. -J Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crotalus 0 Report post Posted March 14, 2014 Will the copper tube work on foam blocks or would it melt? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jolly Red 0 Report post Posted March 15, 2014 A quick spray of WD40 or other silicone spray on the cutter will help a lot when cutting foam. Just don't overdo the spray, or can make a problem with painting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites