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agn54

Bob's banger

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Here is my first go at Bob's Banger. It's with a 2/0 Mustad 3407 and a 1/2 foam head. I know the pattern calls for long shank hook but I didn't have one to match the foam cylinders I had so I just trimmed down the foam to hopefully not crowd the gape too much. Does anyone have any idea of how to match up foam cylinders with smaller sizes, like a size 1 or 2 to get the best proportions?

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Here is one I tied up just messing around. I hope the reds and trout like it

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Not sure what you mean Andy - do you want to cut your own cylinders? The banger looks great - I wonder if using a tube and tying the body/tail directly onto the tube would eliminate the need for a long-shanked hook and keep the gape clear.

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I would say use the bead sizing chart as a starting point for the foam diameter and then just shave the portion at the bend a bit more if you want to.

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PJ, I use the foam cylinders sold by Wapsi (Rainey makes them also I believe) and they come in different size diameters. So far, I have only seen bangers tied in larger sizes using the 1/2 in or 5/8 in cylinders which I would think would be too large for smaller hooks. Piker's idea of looking at the bead charts seems like a good one, I'll look into it. I really love the idea of trying one on a tube, that may be the answer. I'll give it a go and see how it turns out, thanks for the tip

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Andy, I have a set of hole punches like the ones below, and they do a decent job of cutting cylinders, especially after being sharpened a bit. I've seen them at Walmart in their tool section. Also, Sleazy Steve (Soggy Bottom Fly Shop) sells a bunch of foam-working tools and foam blocks. Don't know if this is relevant, but I use this stencil for measuring diameters. Can't remember where I got it, (Michael's?) but it comes in handy.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-HOLE-Hollow-PUNCH-SET-tempered-steel-leather-gasket-/360298828525?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e37bd2ed

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i think he want to shorten the length of the cylinder so it doesnt crowd the hook.

 

if the 1/2 inch diameter cylinder is too big for the hook size drop down to 3/8 inch diameter and cut to length as required

 

repeat for smaller hooks with smaller diameter cylinders

 

i googled and could not find diameter sizes to go with hook sizes

 

cylinders should come in 1/8 inch diameter increments such as 5/8, 1/2, 3/8, 1/4, 1/8 etc

 

try to make the length of the cylinder equal to the diameter. 1/2 inch diameter x 1/2 inch long etc.

 

be creative, experiment

 

Bob's Banger


Hook: 4X-long saltwater hook (e.g. Mustad 34011), size 2/0-4/0.
First Thread: White, 6/0 or 140 denier.
Tails: White bucktail.
Adhesive: Zap-A-Gap.
Midsection: Estaz or Cactus Chenille.
Head: Wapsi Foam Cylinder, 1/2-inch.
Head covering: Yellow Fishscale Witchcraft Tape.
Eyes: Prismatic Silver Witchcraft Tape Flat Lure Eyes, 1/2-inch.
Note: You can experiment with different sizes and colors, as well as make warmwater versions tied on freshwater hooks.

 

i'm puzzled

 

how does a bead chart have anything to do with the diameter or length of the foam cylinder use for a bob's banger??

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Andys concern was crowding his hook gape, the bead chart might help suggest dia that suit hook size he can apply to the foam cylinders?

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...I wonder if using a tube and tying the body/tail directly onto the tube would eliminate the need for a long-shanked hook and keep the gape clear.

PJ, you have some good ideas sometimes.

That will change the center of gravity and likely make it sit vertical in the water which isn't a bad thing but if that effects the pop and it needs to rest on a more shallow angle to get a good pop, a little lead glued to the bottom of the tube should counteract the weight of the hook extending out the back - this is all speculation though.

 

Kirk

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Good stuff guys thanks. Flytire, I was actually wondering about both the length and diameter of the cylinders, not only for crowding the gape but also how the fly balances and its action like Kirk mentioned. For instance, I would think that a 1/2 cylinder on a #2 hook would not only crowd the gape but the smaller and lighter hook would cause the fly to sit funny, but I could be wrong. I think you are right that I pretty much need to experiment with the smaller sizes to see what happens. I'll try matching the diameter with length. A bead chart I saw matches a 1/4 in bead to a #4 so that will be worth trying. I'll let everyone know how this works out

 

Kirk, I was actually thing of trying something similar the other day with the lead under the foam. I was thinking maybe adding lead wraps on the shank to get the fly under water and trimming the head at an angle like a wiggle minnow could make it emulate a gotcha plug, but I'm not sure it would work.

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I see that the hook is pushed thru dead center ...This does tend to interfere with the hook gap which is at least part of the reason for the long shank hook. Is there a specific reason for the hook being centered? Does it create more noise when done this way? It would be a little more durable because of less leverage but I always locate my popper bodies high on the hook shand but then glue is a needed which is not needed with this design.

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Ditz, I usually tie my popper heads on top as well but that is how I have seen all bangers tied. I hope to get out tomorrow and see how different the action is. Just messing in a tub I can't tell much of a difference but I don't think I get a true gauge of the popper action that way anyway. One thing i have also noticed about having the heads tied high is that it's easier to lift the fly out of the water to recast with out popping it.

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PJ, you have some good ideas sometimes.

 

Kirk

 

Sounds like I'm being damned with faint praise here, but it's still a step up from the responses I usually get, so I'll take it. Guess I should have considered the consequences when I decided to become a career moron.

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Don't let it go to your head PJ, we will return to hurling insults soon enough.

 

For what it's worth, here is a really cool video on the banger: link

 

He says the cylinder is pierced in the center to it can rotate and not be knocked out of position

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PJ, these guys must be sleeping because I left it open for the classic, "even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now-n-then", and no one siezed the opportunity.

 

AGN, for size of head to hook I generally use the hook gap as a gauge use heads that are not larger in diamter than the hook gape. As far as length, I would go from in back of the hook eye to a point on the shank above the tip of the hook point. Maybe Bob didn't have any good glue for him to be worried about the head twisting. I don't think you would have that problem with the CA glue or even epoxy that we have today.

 

Kirk

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Thanks a lot for the tips Kirk. I glued mine on with CA glue but I think Bob purposefully left it out so he could make the heads interchangeable when they got damaged or he wanted a smaller head for casting in the wind

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