It just doesn't make sense.

[m_grieb 0]

I've been tying for years now and when tying elk hair caddis, I have never used the copper ribbing like some people do. What is the point of the copper ribbing? Wouldn't it just add more unneeded weight? That is why I've never done it. What do you all think is the purpose?

[williamhj 0]

I use it on stimulators, rarely on elk hair caddis. When you counter wrap the wire over the hackle it prevents it from unraveling if the hackle stem breaks.

 

Also, some people tie the wire in by the tail, dub the body and tie the hackle in at the top of the abdomen. Then wrap the hackle back and use the wire wraps to secure it. However I don't know the advantage of doing it this way, rather than tying them both in at the back.

[cheech 0]

I use it on stimulators, rarely on elk hair caddis. When you counter wrap the wire over the hackle it prevents it from unraveling if the hackle stem breaks.

 

Also, some people tie the wire in by the tail, dub the body and tie the hackle in at the top of the abdomen. Then wrap the hackle back and use the wire wraps to secure it. However I don't know the advantage of doing it this way, rather than tying them both in at the back.

 

The key is to make sure that you are wrapping the wire across the hackle stem in the opposite direction so it traps the stem with each turn. Whether you counter wrap when you tie both the hackle and wire in from the back, or if you tie the wire in at the back, and the hackle in at the front... Doesn't really make a difference.

 

I typically tie my palmered hackle dries with 5X mono, but small or x-small wire doesn't really affect the buoyancy very much.

[shoebop 0]

As I understand it, the wire is primarily for durability and ,to a lesser degree, to suggest segmentation. Fine or ultra fine wire doesn't add enough weight to affect floatability.

[flytire 0]

the weight of a few turns of fine copper wire ribbing is really insignificant on dry flies as well as any other types of flies that use it

 

the hackle stem will be exposed wherever the the wire is not touching it so fish teeth are gonna break the hackle stem whether its counterwrapped or not

[Jaydub 0]

To get the taper and angle of hackle I prefer, I can either tie the hackle in by the tip at the rear of the body, or tie it in by the butt at the front of the body and wrap back. I find it easier and get better results by reverse hackling. Plus the rib adds durability without significant weight.

 

the hackle stem will be exposed wherever the the wire is not touching it so fish teeth are gonna break the hackle stem whether its counterwrapped or not

 

Yes, but when it breaks only a small bit comes loose and not the whole hackle.

[JohnP 0]

I've never bothered with the wire rib, and my EHC's hold up just fine. But then, I mostly fish for trout, not barracuda.

[m_grieb 0]

I've never bothered with the wire rib, and my EHC's hold up just fine. But then, I mostly fish for trout, not barracuda.

yeah I just usually rib it with the tag end of the thread that I have after I've started my fly. that seems to work just fine with me.

 

Matt

[whatfly 0]

Well if you want to just futz with the pattern, why not omit the hackle and wire altogether? That's how we ended up with the X-caddis...

[JohnP 0]

Well if you want to just futz with the pattern, why not omit the hackle and wire altogether? That's how we ended up with the X-caddis...

Funny you should mention that. X-caddis are mostly what I tie and fish with now. Very simple to tie and effective.

[utyer 0]

Go one more step, and tie the Opal X Caddis. The body is wrapped with flashabou (pearl,) Over the shuck then counter-wrapped with 6 or 7 x mono. Then just add the deer hair wing, keeping it short of the hook bend, and clip the hair butts leaving a small head. I find this one pattern will work in many different types of caddis hatches, and there is no need to have different bodies.

[hopperfisher 0]

I use a foam wrapped body in a tan or medium brown to suggest segmentation and coat it 360 degress with super glue or head cement and then (while the glue is still wet) wrap the hackle (usually darker brown or reddish brown) forward, never had one unravel and after several fish the hackle is still in great shape.

[hopperfisher 0]

I also use fine brown rubber legs in the thread wraps that hold he elk hair down. They suggest legs (duh) and stabilized the fly in the water. The foam helps the fly float so you can cut the bottoms off the hackle so the fly sits lower and doesn't crush in your fly box. Hope this helps!

[JohnP 0]

Utyer, I would love to see the Opal X-caddis. And Hopper, your approach sounds interesting; if you can, post a pic, please.

[JSzymczyk 0]

It just doesn't make sense.

 

There, you just described 99% of fly tying. It is a creative outlet, and does not have to "make sense".

 

Because each one of our brains works differently (some work VERY differently...) in a creative or artistic context, what "makes sense" to you doesn't to someone else. I look at most "artwork" and see a load of crap. Regarding flies, if something in a pattern doesn't make sense to you, just don't do it.

 

We could get along just fine for the rest of time with 14 or 15 patterns which would catch nearly any fish, any where, any time. Even the Holy Most Worshipful Trout. That would "make sense" but it would be very boring.

 

I have taken to tying all my palmer-hackled flies with a wire, thread, or other rib tied in at the tail, then the hackle tied in at the head and wrapped back with the ribbing counter-wrapped forward. I tied, fished and caught truckloads of fish over the years with hackles tied in at the tail and wrapped forward with no rib. I had extremely few hackle failures. So really there is no sensible reason for me to tie with a different style now, other than I just seem to like it better.