COMike 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Hi foks!!! My first two Zebra Midge variants (Black Beauties) came out fairly well. I have a question about using different types of hooks, specifically a straight shank hook with a down eye. Our class is using TMC 2457-8 size hooks...using the hook/hackle gauge I have it appears to be an eight or a ten ...these were provided to us for our Project Healing Waters class. The size aside, my question comes to how far down should I bring the thread and the wire? If I go just to the bend in the hook the midge is perfectly straight. The other zebra patterns I have tried were on curved (scud/emerger?) hooks from a sample pack and they took the wraps down halfway through the bend. My question is how far should I bring the wrapping (thread and wire) down the hook? Should it go halfway through the bend or should it go to just where the bend starts? Thanks for the help!!!! Mike PS...these are for trout here in Colorado. I also realize that there are generally accepted standards when tying flies but I don't have a pattern for this with a straight shank hook. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Google buzzers and look at some UK sites. You'll only see tying into the bend on curved hooks (someone will prove that wrong now) and many straight hooks are tied short. So you present a dressing of a size 14 on a bigger hook for when bigger overwintered fish are about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaydub 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 There is no reason a midge larva or pupa has to be curved. If I was tying one on a straight shank hook, I would tie it on the straight part of the hook. You could tie slightly down the bend if you prefer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 use these images as an example https://www.google.com/search?q=zebra+midge&safe=active&hl=en&gbv=2&prmd=ivns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=9HZNU7-vJcK4rgffZg&ved=0CAUQ_AU to me, hook style for a zebra midge is irrelevant. if tying on a straight hook stop at the bend. if on a curved hook use the example in the link above Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ROTW 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 I agree with Flytire. I tie mine on a 1xl tmc hook and start just into the bend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMike 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks everyone!!!! I got some inspiration from the pictures Flytire!!! I think we are using the straight shanks to help in the class demonstrate some techniques. Personally I like the curved hooks myself but will see how these straight ones turn out! Piker....I'll check out the things you suggested now. Thanks! Jaydub, the way we were taught in class was to take it to the bend but not further. Please correct me if I am wrong here but sometimes some creativity is in order correct? I had some larger glass multicolored beads laying around in my Bass bag and took a few out. I just tied a couple with a translucent blue bead. It looks neat to me but who knows....I suppose only the fish does!!!! I just tied these up over the past hour......still experimenting with techniques! I was using the Hook & Hackle "Euro" thread on my previous flies but am now using the Danville 6/0 that was given to us for the tying class. I will be honest, I like the H&H thread better as the Danville tends to fray a bit..... Please let me know what you think of these midges! Cheers, Mike PS....this site is absolutely incredible...thanks to you all!!!! The support here is amazing!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 All those flies are fine. Your own wants and fancies are totally allowed. I'd say try to work on the spacing of your ribbing and ensure they are all equal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMike 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks Piker! Should they be closer together or is the spacing fine? I agree and realize that there are a few gaps between the wire that are not spaced evenly.....I will fix that on my next round!!!! If you have a chance to look at the head portion.....should the size be bigger a bit? pls excuse the beaded one...LOL..... I looked at beads online and the prices were pretty high for beads. I have to keep things as simple as I can to appease my wife so I am trying to use stuff from my Bass/Salt days if I can. The beads I have are multi colored but are (in my opinion) a tad bit to big for the flies I want to tie in the future. My wife and I are heading to Michael's and Hobby Lobby for some things she needs but told me that they have a ton of beads. Cheers, Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 I like the heads as is. I tend to make between 7 and 5 wraps depending on the hook length. Check out the segments on this pic and base you decision around what you like and what you are tryng to achieve. I have a few tied with very narrow heads and some tied with big fat heads. All fish on their day. I personally dont think the fish think 'oh, theres a chironomid i'll eat that'. I think the flies just look like a variety of larvae fish see and they taste it to try. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMike 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks for the Pic Piker!!!! I feel a bit better now! I searched for "midge videos" but got a lot of kids in the pool stuff....LOL! The pic you posted was very helpful!!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMike 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 OK....looked at some videos.....seems like the "midge" has a good sized head with a segmented body...... Is this more like it???? Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 As I say, I liked the heads on the last lot. That ones fine too but watch the ribbing if its anglers and not fish you are catching Also I dont think you are coating your bodies with any varnish or similar? You dont have to but 3 thin coats of sally hansens or similar is very common in UK on buzzers. Helps them last more than a fish or two. Also helps them sink a bit better. Not always something you want though so keep some uncoated ones in the box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMike 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Piker....I am NOT coating any of these midges..... Funny you mentioned the Sally Hansen's stuff.... I can't get into my wife's stuff but I asked her the other day and we will get some soon! what is the diff between the Sally stuff and Head cement? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Sally is a great consistency, dries very quick. Cheaper for me than a 'head cement' from fly shop. I also use other nail varnishes. So long as they have a hardener in them, normally nylon or similar they work really well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMike 0 Report post Posted April 16, 2014 Thanks Piker! I'll "consult" my wife and have her give me the best place to pick some up. If I raid her "supplies" I will be left sleeping in the garage...LOL! I did this once when adding some details to one of my pistols I shoot in competition and she lost it.....the pistols looked great but using her stuff without asking put me in the doghouse for a bit...LOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites