KOKOEK9 0 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 How do you get a bead on a hook, I got some beads, 5/32 or 3.8 MM, for a 6-10 hook. they won' go on a size 14 what am I doing wrong Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COMike 0 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 Are you using barbless hooks or crimping the barb down? I tried a bunch and found that my barbs were getting in the way.... Basic solution but I am a beginner... Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crackaig 0 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 Its no surprise they will not. There are a couple of reasons why a bead will not go onto a hook. The first obstacle is the barb. I don't think that is your problem here. The second is the bend. This may be your problem, what's worse is it may look like the barb is the problem. You are trying to get a curved piece of wire through a straight hole. If the curve is too tight it will foul. Usually the tightest point of the bend of the hook is where it straightens out to the spear. If the curve is too tight the outside of the bend will foul the inside of the hole in the bend. A sketch may help here... As you can see in my sketch there are three points of contact between the hook and bead (1,2, and 3), caused by the bend of the hook. When you get these three points of contact the bead will jam. The probable reason the bead is not going on your hook is the bend of the hook is not open enough to go through the hole. Notice also the barb is covered by the bead. This is why it may appear that the barb is obstructing the bead. It may not be. Even crushing the barb would not let this bead go onto this hook. If the hook were larger the bend would be more open. With a more open bend the bead will not jam in this way. Only two points of contact. That is why a bead intended for size 6 or 8 hooks will not fit on a size 14. It isn't like many sizes. Larger doesn't mean it will fit but be loose. You need a bead that is a closer match to the size of hook you are using. Cheers, C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dpshr 0 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 That was the best description of bead to hook fouling I have ever read. Great drawing also Thanks Crackaig Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rolf Jacobsen 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 That was the best description of bead to hook fouling I have ever read. Great drawing also Thanks Crackaig The man is right. Awesome information and well explained. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RCFetter 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 I've been using hooks that are labeled/made for a beadhead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
williamhj 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 I picked up some beads from Allen fly fishing that have a slot which helps get the bead around the bend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crackaig 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 Thanks gents, it is the curse of being an engineer! Though I no longer work in engineering, I still suffer the mindset. I wish I had / could use a CAD program. That isn't one of my better drawings, but even a less than perfect picture is worth a thousand words. Cheers, C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KOKOEK9 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 Thanks the drawing explains alot and that the purpose, the beads I have are for 8-10 although they will work on 12s. I will have to get some for smaller hooks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS FROM EXPERIENCE Do not assume ALL beads are equal Do not assume ALL beads are spherical Do not assume all beads have a countersink (some are counter bored) Do not assume ALL hole diameters are the same Do not assume ALL beads are countersunk or counter bored to a shallow depth Do not assume its the beads fault it won't go around the bend. It could actually be the shape of the hook bend Try a fine wire hook vs a heavy wire hook If it don't go around the bend go up 1 size bigger Etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 Double post Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RCFetter 0 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 I recently bought some size 10 nymph hooks. It's a bit of a struggle to get a 1/8th bead on and yes it appears to be the barb but it isn't. At the bend of the hook I have to put extra pressure on the bead and it makes the turn. As I mentioned above, the same brand, Orvis, sells hooks that are labeled as being for a bead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevester 0 Report post Posted April 21, 2014 In addition to the above comments, different bends on different hook styles can effect how a bead will fit. Hook bends like the TMC 200 and its copies make it tough to get some beads on the shank. The real tight curvature right after the barb means you need to use either a smaller bead or one of the slotted types if you want to use a larger one. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted April 21, 2014 I had that problem, the first time I bought craft beads. I didn't even think about the fact that craft beads are meant to go on a string, so the hole through it is straight, from end to end. Crackaig's drawing is perfect for showing what happens when you try to put a straight hole bead on a curved shaft. I've noticed most fly tying beads are counter-bored so that the part with the smallest inside diameter is also the shortest part of the hole .... usually. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KOKOEK9 0 Report post Posted April 22, 2014 Hi, got a question, I am using mustad 3906B nymph hooks sizes 10 12 and 14 what size bead would I need since they are a heavy wire hook thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites