utyer 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 This home brew is one of the few things my dad taught me about fly fishing. That was back in 54 or 55. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 Good point Mike. Unleaded gas was a lot different in Bergman's day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FlaFly 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 This brings back memories of an earlier thread in which we thoroughly discussed whether fish would be offended by the smell of stinky stuff on the fly. Seems naphtha would qualify for this discussion. From lots of directions, we're told to use odorizers to make the lure attractive to fish, or alternately to cover up the smell of our shaving lotion, etc., etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stilljerkin 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 So can you use Colman fuel to make this with the wax? That all I wanna know or do I have to find white wax thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 Not sure I understand the question, StillJerkin. Coleman fuel AND wax ... not one or the other. If you go to a Dollar Tree, you can usually find a 12 candle box of unscented tea candles. Buy, and use up, a small jar of your favorite jelly. With the jar 3/4 full of Coleman fuel, two of the tea candles is Shoebop's recipe. I truly can't remember if I use one or two when I made my batch. That was a year ago, and I am just now needing to make a new batch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 gink has worked for me for many years. if it aint broke don't fix it     Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockworm 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 So can you use Colman fuel to make this with the wax? That all I wanna know or do I have to find white wax thanks. If you don't own a camp stove and won't have a use for the gallon of left-over gas, a small bottle of Ronson's lighter fluid is all you need. Coleman Camp Gas and lighter fluid are pretty much the same thing (naphtha; white gas.) The white wax you want can also be found in the grocery store or hardware store where they sell canning supplies. It is called paraffin, comes in 1 lb blocks and is cheaper and cleaner than most candles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steven Wiersma 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 Used lighter fluid instead of white gas, does work. A good, very good, bottle is essential. Â Oh yeah, don't smoke or light a fire while wearing vest with spillage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whatfly 0 Report post Posted June 18, 2014 While all these home remedies are fine, they are also mostly for at the bench waterproofing. Personally I do not like carrying a container of flammable solvent in my vest. So I waterproof at the bench using a commercial version of these recipes called "Watershed" (8 hours before fishing if possible) and on the stream I use Aquel, and Shimazaki Dry Shake. Very useful to carry a piece of chamois (automotive department any big box store) to dry the fly on the stream as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jburge 0 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 Gotta chime in. Â - If your first choice is a commercial product, there are plenty out there. - If you want to DIY, try "Albolene." It's sold as a "makeup remover," but works exceptionally well as a floatant. Â Here's the issue I see. IMHO when you first put your fly on the water, use a "grease" type floatant, because it will insulate the cells in the fibers on the fly from saturation. However, once the original "grease" has worn off you do NOT want to try to reinsulate with more "grease" based product. At that point, you should try a dry shake dessicant, which will repel the water from the now soaked fibers. Â Funny thing is, everybody has an opinion. The best thing to do... get out on the water and try it. Â John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stilljerkin 0 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 I have used gink. And I just like making my own things i don't really know why but I make things everyday. I have lots of Colman fuel laying around the house cuz I run coons and bears with dog and trap and ice fish for smelt so that means I have lots of lanterns. So yes I was wondering if I could take a few ounces of Colman and mix it with the wax you are all talking about and I wanna see how it works. And yes I see you can use Colman fuel to make this. So thank you for answering and ill let you know how she goes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtrout58 0 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 . http://www.drlogik.com/flyfloatants.html  My personal favorite is Dry Magic. It can be used on CDC. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 Gotta chime in.  - If your first choice is a commercial product, there are plenty out there. - If you want to DIY, try "Albolene." It's sold as a "makeup remover," but works exceptionally well as a floatant.  Here's the issue I see. IMHO when you first put your fly on the water, use a "grease" type floatant, because it will insulate the cells in the fibers on the fly from saturation. However, once the original "grease" has worn off you do NOT want to try to reinsulate with more "grease" based product. At that point, you should try a dry shake dessicant, which will repel the water from the now soaked fibers.  Funny thing is, everybody has an opinion. The best thing to do... get out on the water and try it.  John  I agree with your process, however, here is a point of clarification. I have heard well known fly fishers like Tom Rosenbauer and many others confuse desiccants and floatants because they are both chemical compounds based on silica.  Dessicant and powder floatants are two different chemical crystaline silica compounds. Dessicants absorb water and therefore cannot repel water. Floatants repel water and therefore cannot dry or remove the water that has already been absorbed by the fly.  The process of reviving a "drowned fly" is to first absorb the water with amadou, paper towel, or chamois and then use a chemical desiccant to absorb the residual moisture. Then reapply a floatant, or use a combination desiccant and powder floatant like Shimzaki Dry Shake or Loon Top Ride after squeezing out most of the water.  Silica gel is the crystalline desiccant that fly fishers use. The powder floatant that is commonly used in Frog's Fanny and these combination products is hydrophobic fumed silica. Both are based on silica and hence the confusion.  I wrote about the chemistry of floatants here:  http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-discussion/345179-fly-floatants-noobies-what-floats-your-fly.html#post642614 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoebop 0 Report post Posted June 19, 2014 Thanks Silver for the great info. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Adventure568 0 Report post Posted June 20, 2014 Orvis gel floatant is the best for me. It always makes my dries float, no matter what. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites