Floating fly line loop

[Spanky29ca 0]

I bought some fly line for my wife (pink and purple of course) and it doesn't have a connection loop at the end, she's just learning to fly fish and I think it would help her to have a loop to loop connection rather than have her tying complicated knots right off the bat. Is there a way to make a loop without compromising the floating of the line.

[SilverCreek 0]

Tie the leader on the end of the fly line with a nail knot.

 

Once this leader is worn out, cut it back to about 10" from the fly line and tie a perfection loop to the end. You will then have about a 5" long section of leader butt with a perfection loop nail knotted to the end of the fly line.

 

Use the loop on it to connect the new leader with a loop to loop connection. The leader butt diameter of the new leader should match the diameter of the old leader, so you will get a smooth energy transfer from fly line to the new leader.

[Spanky29ca 0]

Geez, I didn't even think about doing it that way, thanks for the tip. That makes a heck of a lot more sense than what I was thinking. Thanks SilverCreek

[ScottK 0]

I use furled leaders quite a bit, I like the fly line loops. There are differing opinions on this of course, but on my 3 wt. line I did a "whipped loop" with tying thread and coated it all with Sallys. Doesn't seem to affect floatability of the line and its holding up well so far, will need to keep an eye on it to make sure it is still sealed (didn't have any UV resin which would probably be a better choice). Here's one way:

 

http://www.ginkandgasoline.com/gink-gasoline-fly-patterns/diy-fly-line-loop/

[BlueEyedSon 0]

I don't know how good of an option it is because I'm just learning how to fly fish myself, but I had a similar issue and discovered something called a braided line / leader loop connector. It's basically like a Chinese finger trap that is open on one end that allows you to slide it over the fly line. The other end has a loop that can then allow for the loop to loop connections for changing leaders. It was easy to put on and has held up well. Again, I don't know if this is the best solution, but it seems to have worked well enough for me, though, again, I'm just learning ...

[heavynets 0]

For a professional job try this:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpXGTLxHt5s&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[ditz2 0]

That is slick Heavynets......Never seen that done. I have just always done a whip with tying thread and a bobbin and then topping it off with pliobond or other rubberized adhesive so the joint will remain pliable. I don't think my heat gun has a nozzle such as shown in the video. Too bad ...I would try that for fresh water. Not sure it is strong enough for some the saltie heavy weights with big rods and lines.

[utyer 0]

Cortland also makes braided loop connectors you can slip on the end of a fly line.

[Spanky29ca 0]

Thanks for all the replies, originally I did tie a loop using a bobbin and thread and then coated it with Sally hansons and also with uv resin, even though I did a nice job doing it I just wasn't sure how well it would float. So like usual I questioned myself before trying it and cut it off. Some really good tips here though Thanks everyone

[SilverCreek 0]

One consideration is that whatever connection you use, with longer leaders, the connection knot and loop to loop connection will enter the rod tip when landing the fish. This presents a problem if the fish runs or jerks against a knot that get caught up in a rod guide or tip top guide.

 

So I coat the nail knot with Pliobond Cement that is flexible.

 

If you use the braided loop connection, whip finish the end and coat it with Pliobond.

 

 

​Using a Nailess Nail knot is the simplest way IMHO. It requires no special equipment and you do not

need to buy a braided loop. Gary has explained on his blog below and with a video that follows.

 

http://www.garyborger.com/equipment/nailless-nail-knot/

 

 

[McGnat 0]

Memory may be failing me, but I believe it was Dave Whitlock who had an interesting method. He ran a needle into the end of the fly line and out the side maybe a quarter of an inch. He pushed the mono leader butt up the end of the line and out the side of the fly line with about an inch of the butt sticking out. He then put a small amount of superglue on the leader just off the end of the fly line. The butt of the leader sticking out the side of the line was pulled drawing the superglued leader into the line. When the glue set, he trimmed the leader butt at the side of the line flush with the line.

[mikechell 0]

For a beginner ... air knots are a pretty sure phenomenon. I don't use them much any more, but I use to love the pin/eyelet. It's like a hook eye with the shank, and a couple of barbs. You slide it into the end of the fly line, the barbs hold it, and you tie your leader to the eye. It's works well, I never had one pull out on a fish. If you get an air knot or two, you just cut the line off and tie on a new piece.

 

Now I use a sewing needle to run the mono about 1/4 to 1/2 inch into the fly line (as McGnat states above), but I never trusted the superglue thing. I pull through enough line to tie a cinch knot. When I am ready to tighten the knot, I place it just far enough back from the hole the line comes through so it fits nicely against the fly line when tightened.

[McGnat 0]

When I started out in the early 80's I used a thing called a leader link. It is a small tapered plastic cylinder with a lengthwise hole and a crosswise slot in the middle. The line was slipped through the hole and out the slot. An overhand knot was tied in the line and pulled back into the slot. The same was done for the leader. Quick and easy. A Silvercreek mentioned, this hard plastic "link" created a hinge at the tip top if you tried to bring the leader in the rod while fighting a fish. They still make them. I never tried the barbed eyelet because I was afraid they would pull out over time. Apparently I was wrong about that.

[SilverCreek 0]

Memory may be failing me, but I believe it was Dave Whitlock who had an interesting method. He ran a needle into the end of the fly line and out the side maybe a quarter of an inch. He pushed the mono leader butt up the end of the line and out the side of the fly line with about an inch of the butt sticking out. He then put a small amount of superglue on the leader just off the end of the fly line. The butt of the leader sticking out the side of the line was pulled drawing the superglued leader into the line. When the glue set, he trimmed the leader butt at the side of the line flush with the line.

 

Your memory is perfect.

 

It makes for a smooth connection BUT it does have one problem.

 

It stiffens the end of the fly line that has the mono butt in it and it hinges and the line coating cracks at that transition point. You would think that a nail knot would have the same problem but it does not. There is not as as an abrupt transition from flexible to stiff. The flexible Pliobond transition that overlaps the knot also helps I think.

 

So I've gone back to the nail knot.

[hairwing 0]

Very easy knot for beginners and solid fly fishing knots that have been around for a long time, a surgeons loop (water knot) in the butt end of the leader and a sheet bend connection with the fly line (some refer to the sheet bend knot as a Castwell knot).

To make a surgeons loop double the mono and simply tie a knot in the loop...that's it.

The sheet bend or Castwell knot is basicly a handshake or loop to loop knot that just gets the tag end of the fly line tucked and trimmed. A url....http://www.flyanglersonline.com/begin/knots/castwell.php. Around the leader loop with the fly line, over itself and back down the loop. Hard ?

I think the problem with most line hangups at the tip guide is operator error....if the rod is held up at a 90 degree angle to the line, I don't care what you got, the connection has a hard time getting over the guide edge in this case because it has to make a transition. There has to be a dip of the rod to allow the connection to pass through. Vis. versa to allow the connection to go back out the tip. The best position to get the knot through the guide is a low rod.

For what it's worth I use a whipped loop in the fly line and a leader with a perfection loop at the butt, but check out the pic for the easy-peasy surgeon loop and sheet bend. The knot on the right is a simple surgeons knot and sheet bend with the tags clipped. The knot on the right is a perfection loop in the leader and the connection is the sheet bend or Castwell knot with the tag ends left untrimmed.

You can grab both sides of this connection and pull to your hearts content ...it will not break !

Another connection is the tippet and for noobs I'd vote for a tippet ring and a clinch knot.