Floating fly line loop

[mikechell 0]

As I said, I've never trusted the superglue bond to keep my leader attached. I knot it. So, I thought I do a video to show how I do it.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xYfj8s7xzE

[Spanky29ca 0]

Thanks for the video on this Mike, I wasn't exactly sure what you meant exactly in your posts but your video cleared that up for me nicely.

[mikechell 0]

Thank you and you're welcome. But I've been told that it's still hard to see and understand what I am doing. I will probably try to do one in the house, with good lighting and close up work.

 

Glad to hear this video cleared things up for you.

[SilverCreek 0]

If a floating line's SG is, say, 0.98 ... without water in it, then with water in it, it could be well be above 1.00 and would then sink. I believe fly line IS like a boat. By your own definition, it's the glass beads (air bubbles) that make it float, not the material of the line itself. If you get enough water in it ... like any boat, it can sink.

I know water in a floating line makes it sink, because my line will float when I first start fishing, and sinks after I've been fishing for a while.

Some of the lines I had on were cracked, and they would sink where the cracks were, but not up or down the line from there.

 

Fly lines float for 3 reasons. They are glass beads to lower specific gravity, hydrophobic line coatings, and the surface tension of water. Hydrophobic coating that repel water and surface tension result from the fact that a water is a polar molecule and are attracted to each other but repel non polar molecules.

 

I did an experiment. I got an old 4 wt fly line, actually my original 4 wt fly line from the 1980's. It had multiple cracks in the first foot so water could enter the braided core in multiple places. I fished it for an hour and the first foot sank under the water.

 

Then I coated that part of the line with a thick silicone fly paste and line treatment. The treatment coated the line and filled in the cracks. The line then floated. Silicone fly floatant is hydrophobic and when to coated the line, it allowed the surface tension to float the line.

 

Modern fly lines are supposed to renew their plasticizers and hydrophobic coating by slowly releasing it from the line coating and keeping the line slick and water repellant (hydrophobic). This is how fly lines coatings become brittle and crack.

 

The reason even new fly line sink is that they get dirty and the coating is no longer next to the water. The dirt on the coating is. So they sink. Clean the line and it will float again or treat the line with line treatment.

 

"Believe it or not, a fly line can get dirty from water as well. Dirt, algae and dust that are dissolved in water will adhere to the outer skin of a fly line. This is why we make most of our fly lines hydrophobic - they repel water. After wiping the line clean, apply a light coating of a fly line dressing. This will help to re-lubricate the line and gives the fly line a slick and clean finish."

 

"Within the balance of the coating are a number of chemicals that essentially act as moisturizers. These chemicals keep the plastic coating supple and strong and prevent it from drying out, or de-plasticizing. The course of time and ultra-violet rays has an aging process that will eventually make the fly lines dry out and crack."

 

http://www.rioproducts.com/fishing-tips/cleaning-fly-lines/

 

If the fly line won't float and you are on the river, use a Scientific Anglers micro abrasive cleaning cloth to remove the dirt and treat the line.

 

http://www.scientificanglers.com/plan-your-trip/fly-fishing-tips/cleaning-and-dressing-fly-lines

[hairwing 0]

I think that most folks should consider that the more micro-bubbles are in the fly line coating the better the line will float. The heavier the fly weight the thicker the fly line but hence more micro-bubbles because the diam. is bigger. Your 2,3 and 4 weight lines just don't have the capacity for bubbles as it tapers to the end. The end of the fly line will sink with the accumulation of any debris on these thin diameter lines. Even the heavier weight lines taper to a point where the diameter of the line restricts the amount of micro-bubbles and added debris weight helps to sink the tip.

....and whats wrong with fishing a 6-7-8 floating bigger weight line to fish trout in delicate situations, nothing as far as I am concerned. Your leader gives you the fine end you need for both the size of the fly and delicacy needed to present the fly softly to the target not the fly line taper.

In my thinking a "level" fly line with a properly tapered leader will satisfy the cast of most fisherman. It would satisfy my requirements. 99% couldn't tell what they were casting and the difference.

A level end in the line has the most micro-bubbles because it's bigger ! More bubbles and it floats better ? I like a foating line tip.

The question is all about preference and the decision is yours but I'd like you to consider the relationship between the line and the leader and where your "delicate" cast happens for your best fishing results..My comments are all about dry fly presentation but to me wets ,nymphs and streamers follow my thinking.

[JSzymczyk 0]

 

....and whats wrong with fishing a 6-7-8 floating bigger weight line to fish trout in delicate situations, nothing as far as I am concerned.

 

It is more about using a balanced tackle system which suits the conditions you are likely to encounter. For "normal" stream trout fishing where the average fish is reasonably going to be 10-14 inches for example, I wouldn't have much fun with my 8 weight. Yeah the tip of the line might float like a balloon, but what fun would it be?

[ditz2 0]

Nice write up Hairwing. I sure agree with you on the level line satisfying many casters. There is little difference between a level line and a DT and most casters would never tell the difference. For roll casting there is almost no difference. I do, however, believe that the real long front taper WF lines will roll cast better and medium length casts will also be aided to some extent. The short front tapered WF with heavy heads will aid in throwing heavy or wind resistant flies. I am really wanting to try one of the new very short front taper lines with a long rear taper. SA sells a floating version but for some reason it is advertised at being one line wt heavier than standard. That has confused me and I have yet to decide whether to buy the stated line wt or to get one a line wt less than stated on the box. I guess I need to send them an email.....