eastern fly 0 Report post Posted February 1, 2015 What are some good set ups for a leader for these fish? What are you using? Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smokymountaineer 0 Report post Posted February 1, 2015 For musky I like the following: 24" 50# mono --> 24" 30/40# mono --> 18" bite guard (Either 80# fluoro or 30/40# wire bite tippet). I attach the fly using a figure 8 loop knot (100% knot strength, used for tarpon) although I know several people who use the saltwater grade duo-lock snaps for quick changes -- the snaps make me nervous. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smokymountaineer 0 Report post Posted February 1, 2015 I should've mentioned: I use a loop to loop connection from leader to bite tippet, precluding need for the duo-lock snaps. I like to keep a handful of favorite flies rigged with bite tippet for quick changes in the boat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hatchet Jack 0 Report post Posted February 2, 2015 Maxima Chameleon mono of various lengths, 40# ------->30#------>15#--------->then a 17# wire tippet to a re-worked Duo-Lock snap (a needle nose pliers is required to change flies at the snap). Loop-to-loop from fly line to 40#, then blood knots & Zap-A-Gap on other mono knots, then an Albright knot at the mono to wire tippet. The 15# mono to 17# tippet acts as a fuse in the event of an unreachable snag. Loses a fly, but saves a $95 fly line. The Maxima mono is a very good monofilament line! Good knot strength, excellent abrasion resistance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smokymountaineer 0 Report post Posted February 2, 2015 I have too have used a short 15-20# "just in case" segment, it's a good idea! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hatchet Jack 0 Report post Posted February 2, 2015 Yup. Deep logs are veritable pit bulls. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVUontheFLY 0 Report post Posted February 2, 2015 I make "furled" leaders using 12-18.5 lb tippet in various tapes and lengths depending on the conditions 4-7' with butt sections that are are 50-72# strength and taper down to 24-37# strength. Then I do a loop to loop connection to a 10-24" section of 20# wire bite leader with a duo-snap on the end. I mostly fish streams and small rivers where I can get my flies. Worst case scenario I cut the leader as far as I can reach and loop another one on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Christopher K 0 Report post Posted February 2, 2015 I make "furled" leaders using 12-18.5 lb tippet in various tapes and lengths depending on the conditions 4-7' with butt sections that are are 50-72# strength and taper down to 24-37# strength. Then I do a loop to loop connection to a 10-24" section of 20# wire bite leader with a duo-snap on the end. I mostly fish streams and small rivers where I can get my flies. Worst case scenario I cut the leader as far as I can reach and loop another one on I've been wanting to try furled leaders for a while now, I know you said that you make your own but have you tried any commercial brands? Is there anyone who makes a fluorocarbon one heavy enough for a 10 wt? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly 0 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 When I fish for pike, I use just a straight piece of 25-30 lb fluorocarbon. If I get a bite off, I'll add a piece of 50# to the lighter fluorocarbon. I picked one from Feathercraft. The only thing I didn't like was the metal connector ring. I'd rather have a loop. Once I get rid of the ring. It turned my larger flies over nicely. That said they carry four that are designed for 7 to 10 wgt rods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVUontheFLY 0 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 I make "furled" leaders using 12-18.5 lb tippet in various tapes and lengths depending on the conditions 4-7' with butt sections that are are 50-72# strength and taper down to 24-37# strength. Then I do a loop to loop connection to a 10-24" section of 20# wire bite leader with a duo-snap on the end. I mostly fish streams and small rivers where I can get my flies. Worst case scenario I cut the leader as far as I can reach and loop another one on I've been wanting to try furled leaders for a while now, I know you said that you make your own but have you tried any commercial brands? Is there anyone who makes a fluorocarbon one heavy enough for a 10 wt? It is really easy to make your own and it is a lot cheaper than buying one. I bought 300 yards of mono for a whopping $3.00 and can make about 35-40 leaders depending on how heavy I want the butt section and overall length to be. Just look it up on youtube and then it just takes a little trial and error to get the right dimensions for what you want to throw. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nomadic_pescador 0 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 I also run a loop to loop connection leaving it easy to swap between flies without having to tie a knot in 60 or 80# fluoro every half hour. 60# + Heavy Mason mono line is stout enough to turn over those bricks we call flies and I've been using the Yozuri pink HD fluorocarbon to the fly with no real complaints so far. On my lazy river days I've also been known to just throw 3 feet of 50# for river pike and they don't see to care about the lack of line in the water. Don't forget to put in a 12-15# piece in between the mason and fluoro if you don't have a boat to get those snagged flies in water too deep to wade or you'll find yourself in a real pickle, usually resulting in a brief swimming lesson...I've seen it happen and its always good for a laugh. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 I was talking with richmc last night. (BTW ... he and the crew at Dupage Fly Fishing Co. are good people. The tying night was great) The subject of furled leaders came up. He throws big stuff, and he likes his. If you wear glasses, like I do, you might not. My main complaint of the time I tried one; Lifting the line and backcasting always brought water with it. I'd get a small splash every time. The water isn't a huge amount, but after just a few casts, I'd have to stop and clean my glasses off. I don't use furled leaders. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
switch10 0 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Has anyone tried Spectra (for the tippet section) instead of the wire leaders? I was testing some out the other day with my scissors, and the stuff seems like it'd be pretty resistant to teeth. I remember using SpiderWire when I was younger when I'd go pike fishing in Canada. I can't remember breaking any off with that stuff either. I also make and use 2 types of furled leaders for about 90% of the fishing that I do (mostly trout these days). I make 5 step, 54" ones with 6/0 Uni-thread on a jig I made. I also make 2 step mono leaders of about the same length. They both have their place for the types of fishing I do. If you are interested in trying a furled leader, I highly recommend making a few for yourself. They've changed the game for me. It's also much, much cheaper than buying knotless tapered leaders, and they should last you years. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Christopher K 0 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Looks like I'm going to have to try making some of these leaders! FYI, spiderwire is a braid, put a #20 spiderwire and #20 mono side by side and that mono will always outlast any braid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 ... put a #20 spiderwire and #20 mono side by side and that mono will always outlast any braid. Not to hijack the thread but ... what ??? I've got braid on bait-caster reels that is close to ten years old, and it's still like new. The only reason I respool a reel is when I've retied or changed lures so many time I've shortened the line too much. You cannot do that with mono. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites