Dubbing (to many options)

[Freddo 0]

No gator's up here. Maybe big pickerel but "Rico" will not be attached to a hook. Now if he bites me maybe... (kidding - we are blessed - this pet is sweet).

 

Thanks for your input on the allergy issue. It dawned on me as I never gave iot a second thought when diving in. Now that I'm shopping for a rod/reel combo, I hope I'm not allergic to graphite and cork (ha!).

[crazy4oldcars 0]

In which case there is fiberglass rods and composite (foam) handles!

You ain't gettin' off that easy, lol

 

Good luck with the shopping. I won't offer suggestions on that. You'll get enough of that elsewhere.

 

Kirk

[Freddo 0]

Hi Kirk -

 

Thanks but I know I'm OK around graphite and cork. I'm heading to a fly shop this morning for some items and I'll talk about my fly rod needs there to hopefully confirm what I think from gleaning info off the Internet for rod and line weights and all.

 

When I was a kid and had a fly rod, it was what I could get for ~$30 done and said. I recall having a little thing I poked into the end of the fly line to connect the leader to. It was metal, had an eye and a straight barbed shank on it. Are those "history" because all I see is "nail knots" now? Well this is off topic for this thread but thanks again Kirk (and all).

 

Regarding teh allergies - I've been fine and I'm sure to stay fine. The guinea pig lives to see another day and I'm off to the fly shop and craft store this morning.

[crazy4oldcars 0]

Freddo,

Off topic, Schmoff topic. Its your thread.

Yeah, the eyelets are not recommended. I think you can still get them. Current theory is nail knots, splicing in a piece of heavy mono with a loop, or whipping or welding a loop on the end of the line. Oops. Forgot about the constriction sleeves. They work like the Chinese finger cuffs we used to play with as a kid. I have used them, but I always whip them to the fly line. One thing to note, regardless of the method, make sure you put a drop of some kind of sealant on the end of the fly line to keep it from wicking up water and sinking (faster).

 

Have fun at the fly shop. Good luck.

 

Kirk

[utyer 0]

Those poke in leader connections are HISTORY more because they FAIL at the critical time. They are also too small to put a good sized leader butt on to the fly line.

 

A needle or nail knot connection is a much better way to go, There are some fly lines that now come with a loop built into the end of the fly line that enables you to simply put a looped leader butt through and use a "handshake" connection. Its much better than a the pokey leader connecitons, but I prefer a needle knot.

 

I have used the shrink web tubes and was OK with them, but they can be stripped off if they get caught in the guides or tip top.

[phg 0]

Cortland is who used to use the inserts. I still have a couple laying around somewhere. A nail knot it so easy to tie, though, that's all I use. As suggested above, I nail knot on a 6" length of 20# or 30# Maxima, and tie a perfection loop in that. Then it's just a simple loop to loop connection to my leader (usually a furled leader.) It does help to coat your nail knot with some kind of resin (epoxy, UV, etc.) to make it easier to get the knot through the guides, ...and to prevent snagging on it on those extremely rare occasions when you just happen to throw a tailing loop....

[mikechell 0]

You can still buy the pin ends for fly line. They are much harder to find, but I still see them from time to time. I used to use them and I loved them. But, you have to inspect them regularly. They show through the fly line when they start to rust and it's time to replace it.

I "sew" a the leader through the fly line end and tie a cinch knot now. It was just easier than trying to find new pin eyes when I ran out the last time.

[Freddo 0]

You guys are awesome! And thanks! So I was to the fly shop and a terrific young guy working there offered to take me out when I'm geared up. He's 17 and was on the US Olympic Fly-fishing Team. That should be a hoot! I'll treat him well even though he told me I didn't need to pay him (he'll get a "gift" then and lunch and dinner - fish or no fish).

 

"John" helped me through the thick and thin of what I should start out with and we agreed on a 5WT. Now for rod length, I "prefer" shorter mayeb becase I'm used to UL trout fishing (featherweight 4'-6" rods) and 2lb test. [Am I allowed to reference spinning gear on here without being flogged?] Anyway, I'll go with a 8'-6" rod (John likes 'em long (11' with 5WT). I'm set on size so now brand. Hi showed me the Orvis Encounter combo (very nice). Then there's the Orvis Clearwater combo, the Cabela's Three Forks/Wind River Fly Combo,a nd I need to look at the Redington line. While I'm sure there's others, I'l start by asking if anyone's using any of these as I'm open for ideas and your thoughts. From dubbing to rod/reel combos - but Kirk says it's my thread .

 

Thanks to all - I haven't wet a line yet and I've learned SO MUCH here. I look forward to being able to hep the newbie's after getting some real-time on the water and behind my vise!

[Adam Saarinen 0]

I hope you got your dubbing sorted out Tim?

[phg 0]

Orvis Clearwater and Cabela's Three Forks are both reasonable outfits for a beginner. I don't think you'll go wrong with either one.

[mikechell 0]

There's fly fishing in the Olympics?

[utyer 0]

I have used the Three Forks, and the Redington rods, and for me they worked just fine. I also have had a few Orvis rods, which were won at auctions or prizes at events. The less expensive Clearwater rods are very good. The important thing about all of these choices is that they all come with lifetime replacement policies. I have broken a few rods, and the no fault replacements saved me a lot over having to buy a new rod.

 

The Redington Crosswater is one of my favorite 4 weight rods. The Three forks feel just a bit heavy to me, and a line one size heavier works seems to work better for me. I put a 7 weight line on my 6 weight Three Forks. On my Orvis rod, the listed line (#6,) is a better choice. I don't see the point is spending more for a rod when these will work just fine.

[Freddo 0]

I have used the Three Forks, and the Redington rods, and for me they worked just fine. I also have had a few Orvis rods, which were won at auctions or prizes at events. The less expensive Clearwater rods are very good. The important thing about all of these choices is that they all come with lifetime replacement policies. I have broken a few rods, and the no fault replacements saved me a lot over having to buy a new rod.

 

The Redington Crosswater is one of my favorite 4 weight rods. The Three forks feel just a bit heavy to me, and a line one size heavier works seems to work better for me. I put a 7 weight line on my 6 weight Three Forks. On my Orvis rod, the listed line (#6,) is a better choice. I don't see the point is spending more for a rod when these will work just fine.

Hey there Utyer,

 

Thanks for this.. Then maybe the Redington Path combo would be best with the rod having a lifetime warranty. The Orvis Clearwater has a 25 year which is good but I plan to out-live that warranty (my plan anyway). The Redington combo is $120 *LESS* than the Orvis Clearwater and that may seal the deal unless the Orvis is clearly a better choce for a combo,.

[utyer 0]

I spent a long time working in sporting goods and tackle shops. I was able to purchase, and try out dozens of different rods all the time. Every year there was some new magic rod or material that was supposed to revolutionize fly casting. These came and went on a regular basis, and not one of them ever made me develop better technique or improved my casting.

 

Along the way I was fortunate enough to get casting instruction from some very accomplished instructors. Now THAT helped me more than any rod and I finally developed better technique and improved my casting. That improvement stayed no matter what new rod I tried. I decided that if I could cast 50' that was far enough for trout fishing. I could do that with ease, with a rod costing $50. If all the claims made by the rod companies were true, then with a five hundred dollar rod, I should be able to cast ten times as far. Well I couldn't and no one else can either.

 

The world record distance for a single handed fly rod is just under 250 feet. The world record for double handed rods is right at 300 feet.

 

Point being, there is no rod that will improve your casting. Save the money and get some good instruction. That will be a better used of the difference between a Redington and an Orvis outfit.

[mikechell 0]

 

Point being, there is no rod that will improve your casting. Save the money and get some good instruction. That will be a better used of the difference between a Redington and an Orvis outfit.

First, let me say I am NOT supporting the purchase of high dollar rods. With the exception of a rod from MidWestCustomFlyRods.com ... none of my rods cost more than $100.00.

BUT ... A good quality rod that only weighs a pound will definitely allow you to cast better than an inexpensive rod that weighs 3 pounds.

 

Don't start lecturing on rod weights ... I just used those numbers to illustrate the point.