C LeBo 0 Report post Posted February 26, 2015 This is for you rod building guys: what varnish/lacquer do you use on the rod blank itself? Thank You and Tight Lines, Carson LeBoeuf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnyquahog 0 Report post Posted February 26, 2015 There are certain formulas and brands of varnish still used in dipping tanks or wiped on for bamboo rods. Most composite or fiberglass rods use a two part resin but only to coat thread wraps. Real varnishes are tough to get through the US mails. Last time I picked some up to do bamboo thread wraps was at an ACE hardware. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Capt Bob LeMay 0 Report post Posted February 26, 2015 That great finish that most all new blanks come with... is usually a proprietary item that also involves low temp baking at the factory - so it's just not available to the hobbyist (or small scale builder, like me...). If you go to Mudhole.com or Anglers Workshop.com you can access catalogues that list quite a few choices in the way of finishes, but as already noted most are meant for the wraps. Over the years I've built a few rods (my first in 1971) and every rod I hand one of my anglers is usually one I've built myself. At best I've only had mixed results attempting to re-finish the blank so you might want to use a piece of scrap or an old rod of some kind until you're satisfied with the results... For fiberglass or graphite blanks (these days many times called carbon fiber - so they can raise the price, my opinion only....) there is a viable alternative to using any finish at all. Here's how I do it when re-wrapping or re-building something like Thomas & Thomas or Sage blanks. I first scrape the blank by hand (no chemicals or strippers ever....) using the side of a single edge razor blade -not the edge.... Once every bit of old finish is gone you're left with just a gray blank (many finishes these days have coloring added so the slightest scratch shoes the gray and any scratches are quite difficult to repair as a result...). Starting with the scraped blank I lightly water sand the surface using 400, then 600 grit paper trying only to work the surface (in other words don't get carried away with the sanding...). Allow the blank to dry then use a good quality rubbing compound meant for fiberglass and polish it smooth. At this point you're ready to build handle if needed then re-wrap and finish the rod. After everything else has been done then one or two coats of wax on the blank and you'll have a good looking rod that's ready for hard service -but it won't have a bit of finish on the blank.... I've used this process on both spin, conventional and fly rods with great results... One word of caution though about high end name brand rods - if you re-finish one yourself you've voided your warranty.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rolf Jacobsen 0 Report post Posted February 26, 2015 If you are doing bamboo, this sie may help. http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=66 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phg 0 Report post Posted February 27, 2015 I only use varnish on bamboo rods. On graphite I use a 2-part epoxy-like finish. For bamboo, you need to use spar varnish, for it's flexibility. Helmsman is OK, Man-O-War (original formula) was the best, but has become hard to find. Ace Hardware's Spar (rebranded from someone else, of course) is highly recommended. Remember, it takes multiple coats to get a good finish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
portlyjoe 0 Report post Posted February 27, 2015 Spar Varish on Split cane. You must mix the spar varnish equally with mineral spirits then apply with either a spray gun or foam brush, at least three coats.I hung my rod pieces vertically . light sanding in between the first two coats. Flex coat on all manufactured rods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites