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carpflyguy

Superglue as Head Cement?

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For head cement I use lacquer or spar varnish mainly for their flexibility even when dry. For this same reason is why I would never use super glue on my thread as it is not flexible. Once dry thread coated with super glue will crack and break. In terms of cost $20 worth of spar varnish may last me two lifetimes...

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Super glue when used as a head cement tends to cloud over time, which doesn't hurt the fishing ability of the fly, but doesn't exactly add to the beauty of the fly.It's main use on my desk comes when I am attaching lead wire to a hook shank,or when I am tying with a delicate material, such as peacock herl. Apply a thin layer to the area that you intend to wrap, and then wrap the material over the superglue, which will make the fly much stronger.

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Super glue when used as a head cement tents to cloud over time, which doesn't hurt the fishing ability of the fly, but doesn't exactly add to the beauty of the fly.It's main use on my desk comes when I am attaching lead wire to a hook shank,or when I am tying with a delicate material, such as peacock herl. Apply a thin layer to the area that you intend to wrap, and then wrap the material over the superglue, which will make the fly much stronger.

Correct, forgot to mention the clouding issue, also can happen if not 100% cured. Remember it sets instantly but 100% cure takes longer. You use it as I do, in under body work.

 

Peacock Herl I form a rope with the thread for that, either rotary style or by hand.

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Since I come at this stuff from a saltwater perspective... my approach to "head cement" is a lot different than any freshwater tyer. I use quite a bit of super glue on my tying sequences for several different purposes.... On flies meant to be consumed (pretty much shredded by one or just two fish) a quick course of superglue works far better than any head cement for my needs. Here's a bug or two that I've done just that with..... Note, if these same bugs were headed for a flyshop order - after the superglue they'd get an additional course of Sally Hansen's.... As a guide I'm much more interested in flies that are quick to tie (and replace)... they may not have the high quality of finish that flies intended for sale with have but they must perform properly (get bit) or they're pretty much useless in my world.

 

My next use of superglue is to seal the thread on a large head that I intend to paint eyes on. Unsealed thread with a painted eye always has a problem of wicking wet paint into surrounding areas (no nice clear edges as a result....). The next few pics show me actually using Krazy Glue (pretty thin stuff - I use it just like a paint brush onto thread to seal it). By the way, although I use quite a bit of super glue I always do a whip finish on almost all of my flies first -the super glue, along with sealing thread, makes heads super durable. You actually will need a new single edged razor blade if you intend to remove a head that's been super glued...

 

Yes, thin super glue has serious wicking properties so you must make a point of not using it near feather collars, chenille bodies and other areas that you don't want to turn stiff and "superglued"... My first use of super glue on any pattern is usually as an anchor once I've gotten my first base material tied in - that first use is with the smallest amount possible since I'm trying to fix a pattern before other materials are added to prevent any shifting during the tying process...

 

Hope all of this makes sense, here's the pics....

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For me, head cement not only works better but is more economical. Head cement generally runs between $3 and $6 per bottle. A bottle will last me a year and I can add thinner if it gets thick. My super glue always hardens before I use it up. I do use super glue as adhesive, just not as head cement.

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I am in Jaydubs camp. I am still using a bottle of Loon that I bought years ago and I tie a fair number of flies for a non-commercial tier. I dilute the Loon cement as recommended (isopropyl alcohol if I remember correctly, it's the rubbing alcohol in your cabinet) and it works great and lasts a long time. Plus it is lower in solvents like acetone that you need to work with Sally's.

 

I don't use Zap a Gap anymore, I got tired of it turning to stone after a few months. The Locktite thin and gel superglues work and last much longer. Plus you can find them in a variety of stores at a reasonable price.

 

Steve

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Reposted as I originally posted this in another (wrong) thread.

 

I don't think scent is significant in trout fishing. Sylvester Nemes (Two Centuries of Soft-Hackled Flies) references a study by Alfred Ronalds about 1856 or so. Ronalds made a blind to study the habits of trout along a stream. Among the things he experiemented with was putting various things on insects, including honey, vinegar, and cayenne pepper. The trout took them all. Ronalds concluded that "if the animal has taste, his palate is peculiarily insensitive."

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Hi, Jack!

 

Captain LeMay,

Is there a published how-to on the night fly? Or another name for it? I'd like to scale it down for freshwater, and I can't see enough of the body to figure it out.

 

Un jacked!

 

I use two 3-turn whip finishes, and only put head cement (clear nail polish) on flies I want to paint eyes on. Like the others, I might use super glue if I have something I want to anchor down.

The only time I use it as head cement is if I have to make a repair.

If the thread breaks just as I am going to finish a fly, I will catch the end with my hackle pliers while I get out the SG, then run the tip of the applicator down the thread and make up to 3 wraps with the hackle pliers and leave them hanging while it cures.

 

Kirk. B.

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Wow, I'm blown away.When did a $5.79 for a one ounce bottle become expensive in a hobby that buys chemically sharpened Kryptonite hooks handmade by Belgian monks. I looked at my super glue and folks if you think it is cheaper, your math teacher needs a refresher course. When you get cheap super glue and you buy four packs of 0.07 ounces each for 4.97, it is only 0.28 ounces of glue.

 

Super glue, zap a gap and head cement all have their use. I too often don't put head cement on a normal everyday flies. The waxed thread whip finish is fine. What I see often at fly shops and meetings is many tiers rely on glues and lacquer because they can not tie a whip finish well or at all. They half hitch or single knot and and glue. Or glue is the cure for not tying a good head to the fly.

 

Glue is never as good as a whip finish.

 

If you are truly saving money by tying your own flies, this was a good thread. http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=42318

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Okay ... I don't know where everyone else is buying their superglue ... I buy mine at the Dollar Tree. one dollar for three tubes or bottles. Or for one large tube of super glue "fix all" which cures more like silicone sealant.

 

I will often put a little on my initial wraps ... just settles my own mind.

I always put a drop or two of thread sealant on the final wraps of a fly. I am skilled at the whip finish, by hand and with both the Thompson's and the Matarelli type tools.

I fish for sunfish, bluegill and the like. I've never had the head come loose on any of my flies. Something else happens long before the materials come "undone".

I have used flies given to me from others that have fallen apart. I do not know if the cement is the deciding factor, but it makes me feel more secure that my flies will last through several fish.

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I have a couple bottles of head cement sitting here but usually opt for the super glue in the bottle because it dries fast and is cheap. for a shiny lacquered look I use nail polish in whatever color matches the tie, I have at least 20 colors but mostly use black, clear or olive.

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Flies like the Clouser Deep Minnow have material attached at a steep angle due to the dumbbell eye. When forming the head, a virtual cone is formed. This shape makes it more likely (for those not skilled in the art of making a proper whip finish) for the whip finish to slide off. Especially if the fly is a little heavy on material. Evidently Mr. Clouser is not skilled at making a "good" whip finish so de decided to cover the entire head with epoxy. If only he could have tied a proper whip finish, look at the money he could have saved.

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Do what you want dude! One of the best salmon fly tyers in the new world uses only super glue, not even a whip finish & not even a half hitch, only super glue! And i would argue with anyone he is not a better salmon fisherman than anyone on this forum!

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I think cyanoacralate needs to cure for a while. If you wet it too early, it's been my experience that it turnes white.

 

I like Crazy Glue for a leader to line connection. Shave down the leader end, thread it through a needle, and then pierce the needle in the end of the flyline and pull it through. Very secure and no knot.

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