Stretch Flex Caddis Pupas

[Holger Lachmann 0]

Tungsten Bead Caddis Pupa. This Pupa looks quite natural, but it is not to complicated to tie.

 

Materials:

• Body: Stretch Flex colored with marker pens
• 
  
• Legs: Pheasant
• 
  
• Wings: Pheasant
• 
  
• Wing Case: Pheasant
• 
  
• Thorax: Siman Peacock Dubbing brown
• 
  
• Weight: Tungsten Bead black
• 
  
• Hook: Demmon Fly Hook DGE 300 BL
• 
  

 

[nick2011 0]

those are nice, i may have to tie a few my self!

[SilverCreek 0]

I use UV Chewy Skin instead of Stretch Flex. It is readily avialable in many iridescent colors. UV Chewy Skin is thicker than Stretch Flex and I think it gives a more lifelike feel to the fly. I think your fly would look great tied with UV Chewy Skin. For slimmer patterns, I think Stretch Flex would be a better material.

 

http://www.caddisflyshop.com/chewee-skin.html

 

 

Actual caddis pupa and UV Chewy Skin caddis imitations

 

 

 

 

[cheech 0]

Stay away from the chewy skin because about every third pack is very brittle and very hard to tie with. It's also one of the least durable materials I have played with. Curtis and I have switched to using other materials to make caddis bodies...

[mikechell 0]

... switched to using other materials to make caddis bodies...

Such as ?

[Piker20 0]

Chamois makes a great body and has lovely texture when wet.

For synthetic I've found Hends body stretch is good, especially for the price.

[cheech 0]

 

... switched to using other materials to make caddis bodies...

Such as ?

 

Latex. J:Son nymph skin is OK but spendy. The new Kiley's nymph skin (from Hareline) is really good.

[SilverCreek 0]

 

 

... switched to using other materials to make caddis bodies...

Such as ?

 

Latex. J:Son nymph skin is OK but spendy. The new Kiley's nymph skin (from Hareline) is really good.

 

 

 

Good to know. Thanks.

 

I used to use real latex material from medical gloves and latex dental dam. Real latex does degrade with time. Ozone and sunlight will damage it.

[Kimo 0]

 

 

... switched to using other materials to make caddis bodies...

Such as ?

 

Latex. J:Son nymph skin is OK but spendy. The new Kiley's nymph skin (from Hareline) is really good.

 

Kiley's nymph skin is made from natural latex.

 

Kimo

[Istripbuggers 0]

Dental dams? Haha, I didn't even know those where a real thing!

[whatfly 0]

So do this new 'nymph skin' hold up any better than the old? The original stuff did not hold up very well in my experience and deteriorated pretty quickly.

[Kimo 0]

So do this new 'nymph skin' hold up any better than the old? The original stuff did not hold up very well in my experience and deteriorated pretty quickly.

No, it is made from latex just like the "old" stuff. You will need to coat it with something like Loon UV Knot Sense.

 

Kimo

[whatfly 0]

Thanks Kimo, I'll pass then. I've been looking for a material like that but more lasting, and the search must continue it seems.

[Kimo 0]

Thanks Kimo, I'll pass then. I've been looking for a material like that but more lasting, and the search must continue it seems.

Have you tried the Nymph Skin from Virtual Nymph?

I am pretty sure it isn't natural latex and it doesn't need to be coated.

It isn't as translucent as latex but holds color really well.

I have several scuds nymphs made from it and has held up well for the last 3 years.

Perhaps Crackaig will chime in.

 

Scud using Nymph Skin from Virtual Nymph.

This one is coated in UV Knot Sense but it doesn't have to be.

I use the UV Resin to give it depth.

 

 

Kimo

[cheech 0]

 

 

 

... switched to using other materials to make caddis bodies...

Such as ?

 

Latex. J:Son nymph skin is OK but spendy. The new Kiley's nymph skin (from Hareline) is really good.

 

Kiley's nymph skin is made from natural latex.

 

Kimo

 

Yes I know. Hareline stopped selling Latex nymph skin for a while though.