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branden_fritzemeier_67

Best Vice For $120

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Why be done ? Without discussion we won't know more about this vise as a possible option to a bunch of folks and funny thing about that but I thought this was a discussion board. But I can evaporate, it's not unheard of LOL !

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It's less of a good deal witih the extension arm, which I would want to un-clutter the head.

I'm up in the air about the extension arm because I don't know the result of the added leverage on that stupid plastic mount. Ya, that plastic mount for the jaws bugs me, I see room there for a lot of flex. More so than from within the head ( the collete, or coolit as the video pronounces it).

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Danville, as far as I know, have not made any changes to the Danvise, other than the extension arm. The "inline" pic is taken with the rotated to where everything lines up.

I've had mine for about 6 years, and the only problem I had with it is the adjustment screw on top, which extends the jaws away from the body, jammed on me. The screw is metal with a plastic cap on it. The cap twisted off and I had to glue it back on. I probably managed to glue it to the rest of the vice.

As near as I can tell, since I haven't disassembled mine, the only metal parts on the vice are the jaws and the 10mm shaft. The rest of it looks like glass-filled nylon. The bearings are the only part that are Delrin.

I have tied from size 22 up to around 3/0 worm hooks, including stacking and spinning deer hair. I have never had an issue with the vise that wasn't operator error. I have no problems at all recommending the vise to anyone looking for an inexpensive true rotary vise.

You have to sneak up on setting the grip on the hooks until you get accustomed to the vise. That is just part of the mystique? charm? enchantment? huh.png of tying on a Danvise. I will admit that I have bought and installed a replacement set of jaws on my vise. I kept the old set as a backup, just in case. The only problem with the old jaws was cosmetic. They still hold a hook as well as the new ones do.

 

Kirk B.

 

oops! They make a set of midge jaws, too. I never needed them.

I didn't know they made midge jaws. But I can see why you wouldn't need them, some folks have claimed tying down to size 32. My limit is size 24 and at that I am using a magnifier light and reading glasses combined, so I'm not all that comfortable with anything below those anymore . I can see #24 well enough when tied this way though. And I don't have all that fine a vise jaw set right now myself. I make due and have for about 25 years with this present vise. The Danvise standard jaws appear finer tipped than mine.

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I have owned both the Danvise and the Mongoose (which I currently tie on) and I can tell you that the Danvise is a very good piece of equipment. It was my first rotary vise, and it held anything I threw at it. Just be careful not to over tighten the jaws on the Danvise or you will run into issues over time. The Delrin on the vise was very solid and at no time did I feel like I was going to break it... Probably the best rotary option for under $100.

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I have owned both the Danvise and the Mongoose (which I currently tie on) and I can tell you that the Danvise is a very good piece of equipment. It was my first rotary vise, and it held anything I threw at it. Just be careful not to over tighten the jaws on the Danvise or you will run into issues over time. The Delrin on the vise was very solid and at no time did I feel like I was going to break it... Probably the best rotary option for under $100.

Ok cheech ! Now you are the second person within the thread who liked the Danvise yet who feels/felt they either needed or wanted to upgrade from the Danvise to the Mongoose. I'll ask you the same question I asked the other poster, why ? And how is the difference working out ?

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I have owned both the Danvise and the Mongoose (which I currently tie on) and I can tell you that the Danvise is a very good piece of equipment. It was my first rotary vise, and it held anything I threw at it. Just be careful not to over tighten the jaws on the Danvise or you will run into issues over time. The Delrin on the vise was very solid and at no time did I feel like I was going to break it... Probably the best rotary option for under $100.

Ok cheech ! Now you are the second person within the thread who liked the Danvise yet who feels/felt they either needed or wanted to upgrade from the Danvise to the Mongoose. I'll ask you the same question I asked the other poster, why ? And how is the difference working out ?

 

It's kind of like fly rods... You start with an entrance level rod for $150, and as you progress you become curious about other products out there. Eventually you are fishing a quiver of rods that maybe fit your skill set and the situation a bit better. Will the entrance level rod still catch you fish? yep. Is a higher end rod going to perform better in certain circumstances? yep.

 

I actually went from a Danvise, to a Renzetti Traveler, to a Montana Mongoose. I think it was mostly due to my financial situation improving. The Mongoose is easier to adjust, and holds a wider range of hooks more easily. Other areas where the Mongoose is superior: space behind the jaw for hotdog fingers, material clip, made in USA with a very responsive customer service dept, comes with both pedestal and c-clamp.

 

All this being said.... If I were on an island surrounded with bonefish, tarpon, steelhead, 20+" brook trout, largemouth bass, peacock bass, and Rattlebass, and could only take the Danvise and 3,000 pounds of materials.... I'd be a pretty happy camper.

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I see cheech. I'm hoping the OP is still with us and is taking in everything said here. It's his thread after all !

 

So I guess we can assume the same answer applies to changing from the Traveler to the Mongoose. They will all tie flies and apparently with some volume involved.

I'm still tying with my 25 yo semi rotational, relatively inexpensive vise because it still serves it's purpose. I would use it in all the scenarios you mention above as well. I'd be more happy just to be in that situation actually !! Than what vise I was tying on, as long as it did the job while there. Over the years I've fallen for the rod stuff but thus far not for the vises. I've owned exactly two and my stepson now posses the first. Non of the jaws have worn out on either vise. But if I were production tying I might then reconsider my options more seriously. Well actually, I would, no "might" about it.

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Im still here dave. Im deciding between the danvise or possible the peak

I'd get the peak... I have that one too, and I use it as a backup all the time. Great vise.

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Im still here dave. Im deciding between the danvise or possible the peak

I'd get the peak... I have that one too, and I use it as a backup all the time. Great vise.

 

I've used a Peak and the tensioning screw for rotation was very rough. In other words it made the rotation rough. I've read where people upgrade the screw for that, seems there is a brass one available. For $150 you would think they would have this much sorted out since it's advertised as a full rotary vise.. in the end I'm not a fan of screw drag anyway, my own vise has that and I never liked that part of it's feature set. I just find other things to spend my money on before replacing it, so far for 25 years !

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Sometimes people just like shiny metal things... or black metal in the mongoose case.

 

eric

fresno, ca.

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Could you polish the end of the tensioning screw to make it smoother?

On my existing vise , no. I never disassembled it but the screw has a chamfer in it. It's really not worth the bother, one day I will buy a new vise. I came really close to buying a used Norvise last winter but I put that money saved into funds for the purchase of a wood lathe, skew set, chisel set and chuck instead..

 

And on the Peak the fix seems to be this brass screw. Not sure what else Peak owners do but that seems to be a common mod.You can buy a pair of brass screws for the vise, one for the base, the other for tensioning.

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Just buy one of the Wolff Ind Atlas vises for 125.00 shipped. Lifetime warranty and totally US manufactured. Comes with both a clamp as well as a nice heavy base

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