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Quacker

Tying hackle onto a parachute post

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I need some more of your expertise to help me with another problem I'm having. I've been tying parachute Adams flies and I'm having trouble tying off the hackle at the bottom of the post. I've tried several methods to secure the hackle to the bottom of the post they all seem to work to some extent and I'm sure the fish don't care if they're not perfect but I'm not satisfied with the way they look. Does anyone have a good way to tie off the hackle without trapping fibers and produce consistent results. It's not hard to tie this stuff but it's hard to perfect them with consistent quality. Looking forward to your expert advise.

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Hi Quacker,

 

I tie the hackle to the post so that the concave part of the feather is up against the post and tied up to the spot where I will later commence wrapping. I then complete the fly without wrapping the hackle. I then reposition the hook in the vice so the post is horizontal and I tie in spider wire at the base of the post. I then wrap the hackle and tie off using a whip finisher. I find this does not grab the hackle barbs normally.

 

Hope that helps

VB1971

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By the way. This not expert advice (far from it) as I have only been tying for 12months. This technique is common for the Klinkhammer and so I now use it on all 'post' flies

 

Cheers

VB1971

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Examine a dry fly hackle feather. You will see that it has a natural curve to the fibers and it has a shiny side and a dull side. The shiny side is convex and the dull side is concave.

When you decide to tie a parachute, you must decide whether you will tie the hackle so that the the tips of the fibers curve down toward the water and extend below the body of the fly (the fly will ride higher and the fly is supported on the tips of the fibers), or whether you will tie the hackle so that the tips of the fibers curve up away from the water (the fly will ride low with the body in the water and the fly supported by the shafts of the fibers, tips curving up and away from the water).

If you want the fly to ride low in the water, tie the hackle so that you rotate the hackle around the post, shine side down and dull side up, tips of the fibers curving away from the water. This is my preference.

This upward curve of the hackle allows the body of the fly to ride IN the film AND with the feather curving AWAY from the bottom of the post, it is easier to ship finish the hackle on the post

Charlie's Fly Box (Charlie's FlyBox - Colorado's Best FlyShop and online Fly Tying Tutorials) shows the method for a low riding parachute. Note how the body of the fly is well below the the hackle and would ride in or below the film when supported by the hackle. This is where the nymphal body of an emerger positions itself. On the final side view, I would use a much shorter post, since the the post mimics the body emerging from the nymphal husk. When this pattern gets wet or the tail fibers do not support the back of the fly, it acts even more like an emerger, with the body sinking well below the surface film. One can substitute zelon for the tail fibers to imitate the nymphal shuck just as the sparkle dun did for the comparadun.

Charlie whip finishes the hackle behind the hook. I whip finish on the post. The directions for how to tie in and post the hackle follows.

You can determine how the hackle fibers will wrap by whether the shiny or dull side of the hackle is against and facing the post as you tie in and “post” the feather up the post before winding it down. You will see what I mean after a few tries.

I tie so the concave (dull) side is toward the post. When I bend the hackle stem back 90 degrees from vertical to horizontal away from the post, the concave side will be facing up. As I wind the the hackle down the post, it will be concave up. Do the opposite if you want the concave side down.

I should note that some hackles will twist on the first wrap, so if your hackle does that, just reverse the side that faces the post to account for the twist.

Now lets assume you have posted the hackle but not wrapped it down the post. You have tied in the tail and now you will dub the body and thorax including in front of the post and behind the hook eye.

Here is how to postion the thread so it is in position to whip finish the hackle ON THE POST.

Finish the dubbing so the thread is hanging off the back side of the hook just BEHIND (tail side) of the post. Then take the thread, and instead of taking it around the hook again, bring it around the post so it is hanging ahead of and on your side (front) of the hook.

Next wind the hackle down the post clockwise as seen from the top of the post. When it gets down to the bottom, take the thread around the hackle and post in a clockwise fashion and whip finish on the post.

Once you have whip finished and cut the tread, you can add some more security by using a bodkin to put a drop of THIN head cement on some of the lower hackle fibers. Capillary action will suck the head cement along the hackle and into the post.

Some reposition the fly like the Klinkhammer below but I just whip finish on the post in the vertical position.

Dry Flies Patterns: November 2011

Here’s a video on whip finishing the hackle on the post.

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With parachutes I don't like having to work around a loose hackle while tying the body etc. of the fly. That is my number one reason for tying the hackle to the wing post. For me it is a speed issue. However, I doubt that it is for many. Convenience will be a factor, it is always easier to work without something in your way.

Here is my version of how I do them. You might find something useful in it.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/SZEdbN099io

You will note that I have a very different way of preparing a hackle to tie it in prior to winding it. When I am doing a demonstration I will do this with a full saddle hackle. then hold the hackle at its tip, often 12 inches from the hook to wind it. Te point is that the method I use to prepare the hackle stops it from twisting as you wind it. I hold the hackle so far from the vice to show that I am not manipulating the hackle to stop twist while winding.

There is no need for you to try to whip finish as I do (only put it in to wind up a mate). Instead turn the hook in the vice.

Cheers,

C.

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I don't tie a traditional parachute. For some reason wrapping the hackle around the wing post gives me fits, don't know why, just does.

 

When I tie a parachute style fly I start with a ferruled body and have it 90 degs. to the hook shank. Add an indicator of white Z-Lon tied inline with the shank going past the eye. I then wrap the hackle around the hook shank.

 

This allows the hook gap to ride below the surface instead of in the film. I have had good luck with these.

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"When I tie a parachute style fly I start with a ferruled body and have it 90 degs. to the hook shank."

 

huh? what is a ferruled body?

 

post a pic please

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I can't make any promises but I will try to get one tied and post it. Or at least let you know where to look it up.

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"When I tie a parachute style fly I start with a ferruled body and have it 90 degs. to the hook shank."

 

huh? what is a ferruled body?

 

post a pic please

 

I think it is probably a furled body.

 

Maybe this.

 

furled_body_parachute.jpg

 

extendedbodycreamcahill1.jpg

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I understand that, Silver ... but I am interested in how he's using that as a "parachute". Actually, I think I am reading that the hook shank is the "parachute" and the hackle wraps around that. Leaving the hook perpendicular to the water's surface. (Straight up and down)

Like this ... I think.

 

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