UV resins, and lights

[flytire 0]

i like silvercreeks regular viscosity uv resin but not the 'flex thin' viscosity. i think its thicker than the regular and i've had it cure a bit tacky

 

i buy the rebranded 'misfit' brand from lunds fly shop (its silvercreeks brand just rebranded by lunds fly shop)

[Kentuckysteve 0]

i like silvercreeks regular viscosity uv resin but not the 'flex thin' viscosity. i think its thicker than the regular and i've had it cure a bit tacky

 

i buy the rebranded 'misfit' brand from lunds fly shop (its silvercreeks brand just rebranded by lunds fly shop)

 

Thank's for this info flytire.I would not have guessed it was the same thing.They only show the one bottle of misfit named UV Bond so i am guessing this is the regular.

[Gene L 0]

A friend of mine and a FF pard got about a gallon of the resin at Habitat for Humanity and sold it to members of our club for $2 donation to PHW for a film canister. I bought a couple, which is a lot. It's fine. I'm not convinced there's a helluva difference in the stuff.

 

As for lights, good enough is about as good as it gets.

[SilverCreek 0]

i like silvercreeks regular viscosity uv resin but not the 'flex thin' viscosity. i think its thicker than the regular and i've had it cure a bit tacky

 

i buy the rebranded 'misfit' brand from lunds fly shop (its silvercreeks brand just rebranded by lunds fly shop)

 

 

 

Flexthin UV Coat is thinner that Crystal UV Coat and Flexthin cures tack free. Keep the light on it longer. It has a different photoinitiator that flouresces even after the resin cures. You will notice a bluish glow with the UV light during and even after curing. So the flies coated with Flexthin are UV fluorescent. Lunds is relabeled Crystal UV Coat.

[flytire 0]

i must have a different bottle of flexthin than youre talking about

[Roland58 0]

Thank you for the input! I have tried the alcohol trick, and it left cloudy, hazy appearance to the resin. Perhaps I will buy new lights....but maybe a bit more expensive and of better quality.

Did you use "denatured" alcohol? It does not contain water.....usually the source of the 'milky' appearance. Hope you get it worked out, this worked for me.

[IgotWood 0]

 

Thank you for the input! I have tried the alcohol trick, and it left cloudy, hazy appearance to the resin. Perhaps I will buy new lights....but maybe a bit more expensive and of better quality.

Did you use "denatured" alcohol? It does not contain water.....usually the source of the 'milky' appearance. Hope you get it worked out, this worked for me.

 

ahhhhhh....thanks!

[flytire 0]

 

alcohol wipes are fine

[Roland58 0]

Flytire, what you show is isopropyl alcohol. If it works for you.....yay. I had to use the denatured for good results. Must be a difference in the uv resin.

[flytire 0]

yay for you

[despatiesim 0]

For canadian users, I jyst tried my new Whalesback resin and light(the more powerfull one). It cured in 10 seconds compketely tack free. This was the thick resin. This stuff is cool! I wonder if there are other sources for the resin rather than fly shops?

[Roland58 0]

You can always buy a UV lightbulb , available in varying wattages of 1000 plus! That ought to cure most anything, including a yeast infection plus you could get a great suntan in the process. Seriously, some of these may require eye protection!

[despatiesim 0]

You can always buy a UV lightbulb , available in varying wattages of 1000 plus! That ought to cure most anything, including a yeast infection plus you could get a great suntan in the process. Seriously, some of these may require eye protection!

I agree! I've been using eye protection and avoiding contact of the light on my hands.

[AKtrap 0]

You can always buy a UV lightbulb , available in varying wattages of 1000 plus! That ought to cure most anything, including a yeast infection plus you could get a great suntan in the process. Seriously, some of these may require eye protection!

 

Interesting... Not exactly about the resin from above posts, but a recent experience I had was that, in my impatience to wait for my "clear cure goo light" to arrive in the mail, I attempted to use a 75-watt blacklight bulb on some Loon UV Fly Paint with no success. Nada...not even after several minutes. Ended up just drizzling it back into the bottle to continue waiting for the light.

 

Is the UV fly paint all that different? (asking out of ignorance of the makeup of them - but I do get that one is called 'paint' and the other, resin ) It surely fluoresces, and seems resin-like...but the blacklight was bad juju.

[mikechell 0]

Black lights are not necessarily strong UV emitters. Ones designed for lighting effects are very weak, so that they aren't dangerous to eyes and skin.

Sunlight, on the other hand, is quite sufficient to cure most resins.