Tying Parachute Flies - How Do You Do It?

[breambuster 0]

Do you guys use any type of vise accessory like a "Gallows Tool" or a "Parachute Rest" (two terms that I have found online) to hold the parachute post straight up while you are tying parachute flies? If so, what do you use and where did you get it? I've done a good bit of research online and I have found that Stonfo makes one, but I can only find it for sale in England. I have even heard of guys making their own, but I wouldn't know how to do that. Any suggestions?

 

Also, do you have any other tips or tricks that make tying these flies easier.

 

A final question has to do with hackle. Do you use a size #16 hackle for a size #16 parachute, or do you use a larger hackle, like maybe a size #14 hackle for a size #16 parachute? I would appreciate any advise in that area as well.

 

Thanks

 

Breambuster

[flytire 0]

watch the video

 

 

 

really dont need a gallows tool

[SilverCreek 0]

Do you guys use any type of vise accessory like a "Gallows Tool" or a "Parachute Rest" (two terms that I have found online) to hold the parachute post straight up while you are tying parachute flies? If so, what do you use and where did you get it? I've done a good bit of research online and I have found that Stonfo makes one, but I can only find it for sale in England. I have even heard of guys making their own, but I wouldn't know how to do that. Any suggestions?

 

Also, do you have any other tips or tricks that make tying these flies easier.

 

A final question has to do with hackle. Do you use a size #16 hackle for a size #16 parachute, or do you use a larger hackle, like maybe a size #14 hackle for a size #16 parachute? I would appreciate any advise in that area as well.

 

Thanks

 

Breambuster

 

Since the hackle has a convex (shiny) and a concave (dull) side, you must decide whether the hackle will cup (concave) up or down. I tie my hackle concave up so that the body of the fly will lie lower in the film. I want my parachutes to position themselves more as an emerger. Wrap the hackle concave down if you want a higher floating fly.

 

You must also decide what you use as a post material. I use white polypro sparkle yarn from macrame cord. If you use yarn instead of hair, you must decide whether to tie the yarn on the top of the hook or whether to take the yarn UNDER the hook and then tying it on. If you take the yarn UNDER the hook, the yarn cannot be pulled off the fly.

 

No parachute gallows tool is needed for the post as long as you wind the thread up and down the post to stiffen the post and form a base for winding the hackle down.

 

You must also decide where you will tie the hackle off; either at the bottom of the post or behind the hook eye. I tie my hackle off at the bottom of the post so that there are no trapped hackle fibers over the hook eye.

 

I whip finish on the post.

Directions for whip finishing on the post.

Finish the dubbing so the thread is hanging off the back side of the hook just BEHIND of the post. Then take the thread, and instead of taking it around the hook again, bring it around the post so it is hanging ahead of and on your side (front) of the hook.

Now wind the hackle down the post clockwise as seen from the top of the post. When it gets down to the bottom, take the thread around the hackle and post in a clockwise fashion and whip finish on the post.

Some reposition the fly like the Klinkhammer below but I just whip finish on the post in the vertical position.

http://www.flytierspage.com/hklinken/klinkhamer_special.htm

Here’s a video on whip finishing the hackle on the post

Once you have whip finished and cut the tread, you can add some more security by using a bodkin to put a drop of THIN head cement on some of the lower hackle fibers. Capillary action will suck the head cement along the hackle and into the post.

You can also use the way Charlie Craven does it. He ties off on the post but whips behind the hook eye.

Charlie ties left handed so you will need to look at it in the mirror to get a right handed view.

The key direction is this image:

This is the SBS:

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/details.cfm?parentID=131

[vicrider 0]

BB, okay, our poor cat has been sknned so many different ways it runs when I get out the clippers. My "skin a cat" way to tie a parachute is unlike any video I've seen, though I admit I didn't look through all the ones above. Best I can do is try to describe it verbally. I just got done tying you a size 30 parachute Adams for the next swap you're having though the dozen for the swap I did on a larger hook. A size #24. Here's the steps I use to knock them out with very little complications.

 

First, do the usual thread base and set my tail feathers in. Wind back up to eye and back approx. 1/3 way. I take my Poly, (other things work for post) divide it to size needed, put half on each side of thread and slide up to top of hook. Take three wraps to lock poly. At this point it is flared in two directions and I take thread and do a loop around, then under hook, then a loop on other side of poly and under. 2 or 3 or these loops will pull poly together at base. HERE'S where I do things different. I grab fly, loosen vise slightly and tip fly nose down. I can then hold poly out with right hand and wind thread around the poly up to where I want to start my parachute. At this point I tip fly back horizontal, wind thread to back, dab both sides of parachute base with Super Glue, do my dubbing full length of body and tie off at eye, put my dab of CA on thread as I whip finish. At this point I cut the thread. Body is done and parachute base is firm. I turn the fly down again, start thread on para base and give a few wraps to lock thread. Then I take my chute feather with right hand, hold it in position with bottom of feather at bottom of chute base, throw a few loops over the feather with left hand to hold the feather, switch back to right hand and lock feather onto base and take bobbin and hang it on something to your left. Wind the para feather the amount of turns desired, take bobbin and give feather about 2-3 wraps to lock it in. Whip finish thread UNDER parachute, dab with CA just before pulling shut, cut line and you're done.

 

All right, so that sounds like a mess but having done it several ways this is the best and fastest I have found yet. Tipping the fly down in the vise when working on base and para feather makes the process so much easier than holding your arm above fly and vise and trying to wind a poly wing that just tips and slips all the time. I also have a swivel hackle pliers which makes winding the feather so much smoother and easier to control.

[phg 0]

No gallows tool is needed, in fact, I think it would be in the way.

 

If you have a rotary vise, I find it helps to rotate the fly 90 degrees so the top of the fly it pointing toward me while winding the hackle. Also, I feel I get my best results winding the hackle counter-clockwise, as viewed from the top, and I tie it off against the far side of the hook shank at the base of the post.

 

Just minor differences in technique....

[m_grieb 0]

I tie hundreds of dozens of parachutes for fly shops and none of the tiers ever winded their thread up and down the post to stiffen in. tie the hackly onto the shank of the hook directly under the post, make one wrap towards the top of the post, and then proceed to wrap the hackle down over the hackle stem toward the shank of the hook. then tie off on the shank of the hook. much faster and you don't have to worry about doing anything awkward.

[SilverCreek 0]

Here is the way Charlie Craven wraps up post and then wraps the hackle up the post:

 

See Step 9 (see first attached photo)

 

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/print.cfm?parentID=131

 

See step 16 (see second attached photo):

 

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/print.cfm?parentID=32

 

The think a thread wrapped post makes it easier to get a consistent post diameter and neat touching hackle wraps down the post. Whether you wrap the post both before and after, or just after posting up the hackle is less important I think than getting a stiff and smooth post to wrap the parachute down.

[SilverCreek 0]

Alternatively, here's a method of UV cementing the post and hackle.

 

[rstaight 0]

Go to (sorry for this) Fly Anglers Online and check out the Para Glen.

 

Here is the link http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/fotw2/031907fotw.php

[SilverCreek 0]

John Gribb of Wisconsin ties a similar fly but with a modified hook and a post from seat belt fibers. See size 22 trico below tied by John and a Trout Unlimited Magazine article, Fall 2012 featuring John's flies.

 

http://online.qmags.com/TU0912S#pg5&mode2

 

 

 

 

"Typical Materials from John Gribb (note additional details below)

Hook: Tiemco 200R, size 12 to 24 Thread: Orvis black, or olive, or Gordon Griffith’s size 14 (preferred)

Body: 0.5 mm foam sheets sandwiched with carpet tape

Tail: silver ribbon V’s(they look like Microfibbets)

Post/Wing: seat belt fibers (1970's vintage or older from a junkyard) Hackle: various colors for Size 10 - 24 A.

Hooks: Tiemco 200R sizes 12 to 22 with hook bent 90 degrees.

Note: Recommend only hooks listed as they will bend without breaking, providing you use round jaw hemostat…most other hooks are too brittle! Bend hook at 90 degrees or 45 degrees and pinch the barb down leaving appropriate platform to tie the fly on.

B. Tying thread size 14 called “Sheer” (Gordon Griffiths) available from fly shops. This is by far the strongest thread available. IF YOU STILL HAVE YOUR OLD NON-ROTARY VICE, USE IT FOR TYING THIS STYLE OF FLY…MUCH EASIER!

C. Razor Foam (0.5 mm): Available in many colors from your fly shop or eBay (0.5 mm). Double stick carpet tape, 3M brand is preferred. Tape 2 sheets of Razor foam together using double stick tape (2 thin sheets for size 18 and smaller hooks); a thin and thicker sheet for larger flies. For example, I use tan underneath and green on top for a BWO. Use your own combinations of colors for whatever fly you are tying. Size is more important than color! Cut out the rough outline of the body for any appropriate size of fly.

D. Cut one edge of silver ribbon and pull off the silver strands (save strands pulled off) exposing the internal nylon filaments, which come out one at a time in a V shape and will be part of the tail. IF YOU DON’T PULL OFF V’S YOU CUT THE WRONG EDGE OFF!! This ribbon can be found in ribbon departments of stores.

E. Seat belt out of the back seat of old model cars, preferably 1970 or older, silver color works best. Cut both edges off and strip away outer fibers from both sides leaving a ¼” in the center to keep things together. Now you can pull out one bundle at a time which is the proper amount for larger sizes, and ½ bundle for tiny (size 22 or smaller) tied flies. Take one bundle (or ½ depending on size of fly) of seat belt fibers and add one silver ribbon filament and fold them over the hook from the bottom and make a single thread turn around the folded bundle above the foam head to complete the post."

 

[flyty1 0]

I do a few things that seem to help me with tying parachutes - hopefully, they will help you too.

 

I have gone almost exclusively to synthetic materials (there are lots of available options) for my posts.

I try to separate a group of strands that are 1/2 of the thickness I want for the final post. Since I like my

flies to exhibit a fatter thorax (relative to the abdomen), I loop the post material under the hook shank and

then tie around the base of the post above the hook shank. After attaching a tail and dubbing the body,

I finally tie in the hackle - which does not have to be very high quality and can even be oversize (compared

to a conventional hackle for the same size hook). Finally, I always wind my hackles counterclockwise which

helps greatly to reduce the fibers tied down when finishing the fly - it is not even necessary to whip finish - a

couple of double half-hitches make it easy to finish the fly (and with a half hitch tool, you can guide the knot

onto the smallest of hooks.

[BobHRAH 0]

I recommend Dennis Potter's videos ( riverhouseflyco.com) for some of the best demos of parachute techniques. His VISE LOGIC technique video is the most comprehensive. I don't know of any videos of him on the internet. I have had numerous classes with Dennis in the Chicago area and he is one of, if not the best, tying instructor I have known. (And I have had classes with a lot of big name national/international figures). The photography and clarity of instruction on the videos is outstanding. And no, he does not have me on commission.

 

thanks, Bob H

[carpflyguy 0]

I use UV resin. After I tie on the post and the hackles, I tie off my thread. I put some UV resin on the base of the post, wrap the hackles and then harden it with a UV light.

 

Tightlines on YouTube has a good video on it. The 'Bondic' one. I use a cheaper resin though than Bondic

[Henrik Thomsen (DK) 0]

When I do parachutes with a wingpost, I use the wingpost to tie off on also, that way no bare thread is seen crossing the front of the body down towards the eye. But hat is up to personal preferences.

More important is it to always turn the hackle below previous turns (between previous turns and hook) that way hindering the hackle to crawl up the post and unfold.

 

When tying a no-wing post parachute I use the hackle stem as loop to secure the wraps with. A little hard to explain, will see if I can find time to post a SBS.

 

/H

[Dave G. 0]

Anyone remember early on with parachute flies using mono as the post ? I do. I tied a few and thought " what a PITA" !