tomcraw 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2016 I've been tying for a couple months now, using Craven's book. I'm currently at the Copper John. I've been using the Loon UV clear fly finish in both thick and thin depending on the fly. I've been using the thin fly finish for where Craven calls for something to lock in the threads on the underbody or a threaded head. Is that OK or should I use something different? Is the thick fly finish the proper stuff to finish out the wing case on a fly like the Copper John? When should I be using the head cement instead? It's also $8 a bottle vs $13. Thick Loon on wingcase: Thin Loon on the head: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2016 the only time i use uv resins is to finish off heads on streamers or the wing case on a copper john or similar pattern. i dont waste $$$ uv resins on underbodies. dollar store crazy glue to hold on materials head cement works for just about everything else and like you say its cheaper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishinguy 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2016 Additionally, clear nail polish is a great alternative to head cement. Sally Hansen hard as nails has become the sort of standard for allot of tiers. Much cheaper, works great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tomcraw 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2016 thanks, that's very helpful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave G. 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2016 I think the last time I bought head cement I vowed that would be literally "the last time". As I recall it was around $4 and I thought how disgusting is that for a little bit of clear lacquer. I still have that bottle, it's like a treasure in it's pretty little bottle but I use Sally Hansen's mostly now. Sallys works just as well and at my local Stop & Shop store it cost $1.95, plus it comes with a brush. I also use a couple of iterations of super glue, also cheap. Well for me it's free actually, my wife supplies it from her fake nail sets, unless you include my wife's latest $40,000 addition on her kitchen, then I guess it's not so cheap. I've never used UV resin, I may or may not ever use UV resin ( and I have tied Copper Johns, seems to me it was a Thin skin Wing case coated with head cement).. But if UV resin costs $11+, plus who knows what for a light, it's probably not going to happen in this lifetime.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2016 For me head cement and uv resin can't be compared since it performs different tasks. Uv resins for building up heads. Head cement, super glue or Sally hansons for securing thread. If you want shiny with no build up I use Sally hansons. I try to avoid using uv resins at all costs even for some heads because it's just to expensive and I don't production tie where I need the speed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bimini15 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2016 UV only for quick and bulky or durable heads. Essentially, it replaces epoxy, which I never liked in any of its forms. Yes, it can be expensive, specially if you buy "boutique brands". I do not, but I still pay a small premium for the convenience of not waiting for epoxy to dry. So far, no yellowing either. I am not a speed tier, I am a rushed tier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 yup speed has nothing to do with my use of uv resins i try to tie the best i can and probably take more time tying a fly than others do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 I don't use epoxy or UV resin ... because I am too cheap to buy either. Bottles of nail polish from the Dollar Tree do me just fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vicente 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 The Loon hard head build up very fast for an epoxy/UV goo type finish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest rich mc Report post Posted September 24, 2016 also when using sally hansens or nail polish, trim the brush applicator for more a detailed application rich mc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kentuckysteve 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 Uv's are just too expensive for what i tie.I use the sally hansens. I have 2 bottles.One with the brush and one i pulled the bristles out and replaced with a toothpick.Works really well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave G. 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 I have patterns that work fine without the UV resin. If that were not the case and resin was the cure to that problem, then I might consider it. And I'm not curious enough to buy it just to experiment. I have to admit that it does look nice in some patterns though. The bottom line for me is how the fish respond.. We humans can go on and on and on looking for the best mouse trap, when snap traps always did the job fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaydub 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 I don't use UV glue and rarely use epoxy in my tying. I still have several bottles of Griff's thin head cement that I use for the heads of most trout flies. If I want a glossy finish I use Sally Hansen's. If I want more of a build-up I use either Liquid Fusion or Loctite GO2 glue. Sometimes I coat those with Sally's for extra gloss. For adhesive I use brushable Crazy glue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 different strokes for different folks nothing wrong with anybodies choices Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites