Regal Revolution Vise...How many tie on them???

[DrVette 0]

I have only had one chip. It was after seeing hooks break while fishing that i found the problem. I have had 6 of those vises. Only one cracked/chipped at the hook set. I can not tell you why. I am completely unsure of when it happened. But i KNOW i was NOT doing anything that should have caused it. Yet Regal gave me the bum rush. That just isn't right, I still use them for teaching beginning tiers...they are just very easy to set a hook in...but they seriously need to address a problem they try to hide from...If they ever do solve that they will be one of the best vises in the world.

[Dave G. 0]

Dr V, I'm no engineer but been around mating surfaces, steel, aluminum, tooling, tools,parts fitting and machines all my life. I suspect they need to address the surface area of their mating surface and maybe the tempering of the steel. Lick that and I will guess the chip issue will fall by the wayside. And I agree with you that they should be addressing something and better working with the customer.. I've tortured two of my vises ( two different brands) and honestly thought I was running some risk of damage now and then and see nothing like a chip after 20 years of use on a lousy $30 India made vise that holds a #24 hook any way I put it in the jaws, without spitting it.. So I just can't even go down this path of user error on a spring pressured vise costing 6 times more money. No , I stand firm on believing there is a design flaw. Even if a hook gets tossed ( I could see that happening in a quick thoughtless insertion) then there should be enough surface area of the jaws coming together to support them coming together without chipping. In fact QC should be testing for that IMO. And now you are saying that you think yours chipped under normal use, strengthening my view point's position all the more. In the end though, it's my opinion not fact.

[Bimini15 0]

Cold, seems like you want to be right on this one more than I do, so I am not going to get into a long winded reply, but just a few points that the time I have will allow.

 

1. We are both going on assumptions. Can't accuse me of it to get the high ground and then admit to it yourself.

2. Never made a judgement on Regal, but general comments about design practice and a hypothetical "If I were...". I did say flat out that I love mine, though.

3. Mudding in a VW Beetle is just as unreasonable as digging a trench with the Regal vise jaws. Neither one is the tool for the job.

4. Crap! I am taking a lot longer to reply than I thought I would....

5. "You can put the hook anywhere..." Nope. Not anywhere. A Regal can spit a hook, with an audible snap of the jaws.

 

Bottom line for me is that a product should be designed with a range of users in mind. It should be forgiving of and survive at least the most common user mistakes. In my experience, the Regal is such product. I think it would be very easy for Regal to keep its reputation and make loyal customers out of the small, perhaps negligible, percentage of users that have an issue with the jaws. As long as they are not digging trenches.

[DrVette 0]

I have only had one Regal chip on me. I can not begin to guess how it actually cracked since it took a few months of breaking hooks while fishing before i figured it out.

I have bought several more since (used on eBay) because they are a VERY good vise for teaching kids on.

I teach them the grooves and most catch on in seconds.

But the one that did chip...I was the only that used it. I never set it wrong...And i just can't tell you how it happened. I honestly never figured it out. I think that is why i was so mad about their response.

There was no abuse, or anything that should have caused it...it really is a mystery i would like to hear an answer on. Over a decade after the fact...

[Cold 0]

.

[cheech 0]

Holy pissing contest. People need to get outside more often and realize that opinions are OK.

[Jokey 0]

I was going to jump into this debate but my microphone isn't working properly and I have a head cold.

 

J

[Dave G. 0]

Yeah, I'm done with this one. See ya around the forums.

[Bugsy 0]

or maybe you just don't have the stamina

[Bugsy 0]

Yeah, I'm done with this one. See ya around the forums.

You shouldn't be upset, Dave. You did send this into a tailspin with no first hand experience of the product.

[Dave G. 0]

 

Yeah, I'm done with this one. See ya around the forums.

You shouldn't be upset, Dave. You did send this into a tailspin with no first hand experience of the product.

 

I'm not upset but when forum topics degenerate to total OT I lose interest. They rarely recover, sometimes get shut down by the mods even.. It was about at the point where we started mug bogging in a VW that my interest started slipping, though it was humorous.

[DrVette 0]

After watching videos on how reagal makes their vices i think i might know the problem. They do a half-assed nitrogen hardening (they are doing that very wrong so???) while i think they should be doing a high heat treatment followed by an oil bath to set the crystal structure instead...Just my guess from researching Samurai swords. ONLY a guess...i am not a metallurgist.

[cheech 0]

Here is the point...

 

You won't chip your jaws if you don't place the hook too far forward.

 

 

Another point... I absolutely DESTROYED a pair of Thompson jaws in about 6 months. Why? User error. I'd clamp them down too tight. They wouldn't replace them either.

[Bimini15 0]

Apologies if I ruined it for some of you.

Bimini out.

[Dave G. 0]

After watching videos on how reagal makes their vices i think i might know the problem. They do a half-assed nitrogen hardening (they are doing that very wrong so???) while i think they should be doing a high heat treatment followed by an oil bath to set the crystal structure instead...Just my guess from researching Samurai swords. ONLY a guess...i am not a metallurgist.

I've done tool steel hardening. You have to temper it in an oven as a second step, this brings in the usable properties of torsional strength, impact resistance etc. Just heated and quenched steel for hardening does just that , hardens it but leaves it too brittle to use. Tempering is done at a much lower temp and leaves the metal a kind of golden brown but tuff. Of course different metals have various properties too. But that second process is what makes the item have it's attributes of the tool requirements, be that torsional strength impact etc.

 

All hardenable steel is heated to a high temp for initial hardening but some can take air or gaseous cooling to harden, other water, other oil and some oil or water Quenching. Hardening is done by often fire heat to very high almost molten or liquid state, where the surface wants to pool and the steel is very pliable, then rapidly cooled.

 

The annealing or tempering, is oven temps, a typical temp is around 325 deg f. for tempering and higher and longer for annealing, lower if air cooling vs a re quenching where usually just water is sufficient for tempering. annealing air cools slowly.. In this stage you find the metal surface turning some where from golden to brown, depending on what you need from the steel and the steel's properties..

 

No clue how any of this fits into Regal's process. But I'd be very surprised if they have no secondary oven process after hardening.