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mhackney

knotted leader question

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Hello all. I thought I would spend some time learning how to make leaders. I've read a bunch of stuff here and on the web and found the LeaderCalc spreadsheet. I can tie a blood knot too(!). I picked up 1X, 3X, 5X and 7X Cortland Precision II tippet mono at my local shop. However, all of the recipes call for heavier mono for the butt, etc. I've looked at local shops for Maxima and Mason mono that folks recommend due to its stiffness. I have not been able to find these locally. All I'm trying to do is make a Schweitzer's 4 Segment All Purpose leader (from LeaderCalc) in 9' for a 5wt line and a 5x tippet. Any suggestions?

 

Michael

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I enjoy using the LeaderCalc formulas and for me I like the Nymph variation (for subsurface) and if I want to fish dry I shorten the 3x tippet to about 10" and add 18" of 5x tippet. Anyway, any regular mono of about 25# test will be close the right diameter and stiffness. Actually the cheaper brands will be stiffer than the expensive ones (and they should still flex the same as the last 6-8 inches of your line). Bring cheap they may take more straightening when you first start your day, but strength will not be an issue because the weak link will be the tippet or 3x to 5x connection. I have one friend who puts yellow Stren (if you can find it) in the 3x section as a strike indicator. Enjoy.

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Thanks Greg. I have found some Climax hard mono in 20# and 30# and I have 0x to 7x Precision II tippet spools but I am at a loss for the sizes above 0X called for in LeaderCalc.

 

When I calculate a Nymph Variation at 9' and 3x tippet the formula calls for .021, .019 (08X), .017 (06X), .015 (04X), .012 (01X), .010 (1X) and .008 (3X). I understand the 1X and 3X but I have not found a source for the others - not even online. The 20# hard climax is .019 and there was nothing between that and the standard 0X. Also, being hard mono, shouldn't just the very butt (the .021 size) be hard mono and the rest soft mono?

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The conventional wisdom is that the butt can be about 60% of the leader. On the Nymph Variation the first 3 sections could be hard mono. The two things I believe you have to watch for are that the flex of the line at the tip matches the flex of the butt, and that once you introduce soft mono in the steps you should stay with soft mono. I have found (per the Maxima website) that above 1X (.010) the leaders are not marked in 'X’ but just by pound strength. I think most monos in 15# and higher will be sufficiently stiff to work. Here is what I use for my 6wt leaders (as an example):

Material ... Size ... Dia. ... Length

Maxima ... 30# ... .022 ... 34

Maxima ... 20# ... .019 ... 19

Maxima ... 15# ... .016 ... 13

Trilene ... 12# ... .014 ... 12

Trilene ... 10# ... .012 ... 7

Trilene ... 6# ... .010 (1X) ... 7

Trilene ... 4# ... .008(3X) ... 19

 

On my 4wt I start with the 20# mono at 34” and work down from there, ending at 4X. As you see, most of the material is not marked as ‘X’. I have a micrometer ($20) that is a help, but as you can see, by using the breaking strength of the mono you can do quite well without knowing the exact dia. of the mono - some may disagree, but I say, 'get some spinning mono for the heavier weights'. And as I mentioned, if I have to go to 5X on the stream (changing to dries) I cut the 3X back to about 10” and add 16” of 5X.

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Ok, I ended up mail ordering what I needed and it came in today. I also bought a Dennison research Blood Knot Tier - it was less than 10 bucks so I thought what the heck. All I can say is "WOW" this thing makes tying blood knots a piece of cake. I can tie them by hand but the larger diameter mono is always a challenge. This thing does a supurb job. Highly recommended!

 

Michael

 

BTW - tied up 6 of the Nymph Variations - went really fast.

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