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Weather is nasty out...good time to be tying. Anyway, I have been messing with the Czech style flies and seems that this is a unique type of tying that really makes you think how the fly will be used. I'm thinking of placement of the fly on the rig. Usually, the heaviest fly is on the bottom, with that in mind I been testing the jig style hooks to be tied as the heaviest to ensure it gets to the bottom to reduce snagging (it is supposed to dangle hook up). That was long winded...is there a way to tie on standard nymph hook so that it dangles hook up? Maybe through techniques or weighting?

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Sure, bead chain or hourglass eyes, tied to the top of the hook, will flip it over. Also, many tiers are using jig hooks with slotted beads to achieve the same effect. Also, take a look at the 45 degree and 60 degree jig hooks, as they are particularly good for this application. Jig hooks are available down to size 12.

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Weather is nasty out...good time to be tying. Anyway, I have been messing with the Czech style flies and seems that this is a unique type of tying that really makes you think how the fly will be used. I'm thinking of placement of the fly on the rig. Usually, the heaviest fly is on the bottom, with that in mind I been testing the jig style hooks to be tied as the heaviest to ensure it gets to the bottom to reduce snagging (it is supposed to dangle hook up). That was long winded...is there a way to tie on standard nymph hook so that it dangles hook up? Maybe through techniques or weighting?

Perhaps the Turle Knot will let that hook ride up ...

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A non-jig hook used with a slotted tungsten bead can be tied to have the bead ride above the center line of the hook shank.

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Hareline also makes an "insta-jig" bead head. IT has an offset hole to place a majority of the mass on the top side of the hook. I haven't used them yet, but have seen plenty of flies tied with them and they look like they'd get the job done.

 

http://www.jsflyfishing.com/hareline-insta-jig-tungsten-head

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Very nice, I am going to be experimenting with all the comments to find the best and quickest to use for the bottom fly. I just need to figure out how to not let work interfere with my fly tying and fishing!

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so a fly tied with a regular brass/tungsten bead wouldn't end up with the hook point up?

 

all the weight is at the eye

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so a fly tied with a regular brass/tungsten bead wouldn't end up with the hook point up?

 

all the weight is at the eye

 

If you're talking fore/aft angle, maybe. The line tied to the eye will offset the bead weight in terms of front to back. Also, if you tie a trailer to the bend of the beadhead, it will generally pull the bend down.

 

Jig heads are more about hook point above hook shank than front to back.

 

When I used jig lures with spinning gear, they rode hook up most of the time.

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so a fly tied with a regular brass/tungsten bead wouldn't end up with the hook point up?

 

all the weight is at the eye

The times I've watched my bead head nymphs, tied on down eye hooks, they rode right-side-up, or hook down. With materials distributed evenly around the shank of the hook, I've always assumed that the hook point serves as a keel. I could be wrong on the "why," but that's been my observation on numerous clear mountain streams where I can watch the action of my nymph.

 

Dead drift, now, the fly tumbles in the current.

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Another way is to tie on your fly with a turle knot, but go through the eye from the "wrong" side. That is for down eyed standard hooks or straight eyed hooks. It means you have to tie the flies a little short of the eye, to accommodate the knot. These days I do this on most of my weighted nymphs as it gives you a double option from the one fly. Tie them on normally to fish "normally", or with the turle knot to fish hook up. Here are some GRHE bead heads I tied this way recently.

post-43582-0-12258700-1484188848_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers,

C.

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Hi group,

A number of years ago, a supplier called us and offered to sell us his complete inventory of unweighted jig hooks, so we bought the bunch (10,000 or so as I remember). The way these jig hooks were manufactured there was room for the weight and a bit of extra shank for the jig skirt to be slipped into place and not much else. In other words, the shank was a bit short. We needed a way to add the jig head while not losing any of the hook-shank length which we needed for the body. We ended up melting a mono ball on the end of a heavy monofilament strand (50lb if I remember right), slipped a large bead on the mono then tied it to the hook so the bead was slightly in front of "angled-up hook eye. The resulting Wooly Buggers, Cone Heads, etc. worked great and were the base for a series of flies we called Bottom Bouncers we sold to a group of Montana guides during the 90s. The concept should work just as well today. Take care & ...

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