Bobbins... rough on thread, and best spinners?

[Chris_NH 0]

Wondering what you all prefer for bobbins...

 

I've got so many bobbins, but so few really good ones.

 

I've got 4 Rite bobbins that I really like, but they don't spin very well. I like a bobbin to really fly around efficiently when I give it a good spin, and the Rite bobbins wobble too much.

 

The best spinners I've got are small and cheap, but they spin perfectly, but many of them are hard on thread. Nothing more aggravating than having to restart broken thread halfway through ever third fly. Even many of the ceramic tubed good spinners are rough on thread than they should be. I find myself using a cheap Sunrise (I think it is) regular metal tubed bobbin that never breaks thread and spins like a top. Trouble is you've got to go through a half dozen to find one this good on thread.

 

So, what do you consider top notch bobbins, and why?

Thanks.

[Dave G. 0]

Even my old copper tube bobbin and stainless tubed bobbins started working fairly flawlessly once I discover the thread was fraying when I had the bobbin set too tight , or used a finger pressure that was too tight. Even so, my favorite bobbins are Griffin ceramic tubed ones with the delrin/nylon bearings because of how smooth they work. The big deal is spool pressure, spend some time getting it "just right" and 9/10 of your rough on thread issues will go away I think..

[flytire 0]

25+ years on the same tiemco bobbin holders. ive never had the ceramic tube break any thread. the hook point yes. wrapping with too much tension yes

 

every bobbin holder is gonna wobble if you spin it too fast/hard

 

2300 rpm is not required to spin thread into a ribbon

[Al Beatty 0]

Hi group,

The comments about adjusting the bobbin arms are spot on. Also, many bobbins have micro burrs in the barrel ends. We use a short (2-inch) section of #10 copper wire (insulation removed) to make a "reaming tool" to use in a Dremel Tool to clean out those burrs. The reaming tool is just a piece of wire sharpened on one end using a belt sander. Take care & ...

[whatfly 0]

Would be happy to take those Rite Bobbins off your hands it you do not like them. I have to always scratch my head about the complaints about them spinning, because it has never been a problem for me, and their advantages more than make up for this very minor shortcoming. YMMV.

[JayWirth 0]

My favorite is the Renzitti with the ruby tip

[Chris_NH 0]

Would be happy to take those Rite Bobbins off your hands it you do not like them. I have to always scratch my head about the complaints about them spinning, because it has never been a problem for me, and their advantages more than make up for this very minor shortcoming. YMMV.

Instead of scratching your head simply make me an offer.

[Chris_NH 0]

ive never had the ceramic tube break any thread.

I've got a Rite bobbin HOLDER sitting right here that will sever any 6/0 Danville the first time you go to wrap any material hard enough to cinch it down. I fairly certain the tip is ceramic.

 

You tie 3 or 4 hours a day and you get to where you know how much pressure certain threads can take, and when they break prematurely, before that pressure is reached, regularly on one bobbin HOLDER and not another you can properly call the holder at fault.

[Chris_NH 0]

My favorite is the Renzitti with the ruby tip

Thanks, I'll check it out.

[cphubert 0]

Still using old S&M bobbins have a nor-vise auto also but use my S&M's 91.6777777 % of the time. sorry I couldn't resist.

[whatfly 0]

 

ive never had the ceramic tube break any thread.

I've got a Rite bobbin HOLDER sitting right here that will sever any 6/0 Danville the first time you go to wrap any material hard enough to cinch it down. I fairly certain the tip is ceramic.

 

You tie 3 or 4 hours a day and you get to where you know how much pressure certain threads can take, and when they break prematurely, before that pressure is reached, regularly on one bobbin HOLDER and not another you can properly call the holder at fault.

 

Do you think it is supposed to do that and if not what exactly is preventing you from contacting Rite Bobbin? My experience is that they will fix anything wrong with their product. Have had them refurbish multiple bobbins over the years and I'm not sure I ever paid more than shipping to them. Very helpful folks.

[Dave G. 0]

 

ive never had the ceramic tube break any thread.

I've got a Rite bobbin HOLDER sitting right here that will sever any 6/0 Danville the first time you go to wrap any material hard enough to cinch it down. I fairly certain the tip is ceramic.

 

You tie 3 or 4 hours a day and you get to where you know how much pressure certain threads can take, and when they break prematurely, before that pressure is reached, regularly on one bobbin HOLDER and not another you can properly call the holder at fault.

 

Chris, the thread I've had the most trouble with if the tension isn't set right is Danville 6/0. Especially a particular run of tan that I had. I blamed the bobbin, I blamed the thread. Over time I adjusted some more and settled for when I want that extra tension, to use my finger . Upon close inspection of what was going on I could see the thread fraying as it came off the bobbin and then snap, when it was set tighter. I'm really doubting it's your bobbins. But meanwhile pick up a Rernzetti or Griffin, a Slick ceramic and see what happens. I surely could be wrong but I doubt it. Just sayin.

[cheech 0]

#1. Here in Murika it's 100% acceptable to call it a bobbin. If you travel to the other side of the pond it is not. Here in Murika we say Aluminum (just how it's spelled.) On the other side of the pond they say AluminIUM even though there is no extra vowel. That REALLY pisses me off.

 

#2. If you want a smooth bobbin that spins, get the C&F bobbin. You can put 2300 RPM on that sucker and it will NOT wobble.

 

#3. If you place you finger tip right at the tip of the rite bobbin tube while you spin it will work really well.

[Gene L 0]

I have a bunch of bobbins, which is what the majority of the country calls them. It's a shortened version of "bobbin holder." I'm good with that, since I perfectly know by the context what the writer means. Additionally, I call "bobbins" "spools". To me, bobbins are the either things that hold a whole lot of thread and are kinda cone-shaped, or fit into sewing machines.

 

The only kind of bobbin I don't care for are the expensive ones. S&M bobbins are fine with me.I buy bobbins whenever they're on sale and have a lot of them and can't tell much difference. Rite Bobbins (I believe they're called exactly that, however improperly) with that open side are kinda hard to manage intuitively, but work just find once your hand adjusts to them without un-threading.

[Chris_NH 0]

#3. If you place you finger tip right at the tip of the rite bobbin tube while you spin it will work really well.

Interesting. I haven't tried that. But it's better when they just don't wobble at all. I tie a lot of nymphs with tapered thread bodies and it's nice to get the thread flat with one quick flick. Wobbling bobbins are a pain in the butt for impatient tyers like me.

 

And I hate swapping out bobbins of different threads, and as a result have well over a dozen bobbin holders loaded up, so I'd really like to find one type that spins tightly and handles all types of threads well so I can buy a bunch of them and be done with the aggravation.