swampsinger 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 I was wondering if those fine tip aplicator bottle would help. All I do now is dip the tip of my bodkin in the sally hanson and then carefully put a drop on the head or at the base of the post. The 2 main problems I have with this type of thing are, the bottle dosent seal properly and the contents harden or the tip turns into a narly thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hatchet Jack 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 The problem I've had with applicator bottles is that the needle clogs up rather quickly. With Sally Hansen's, I trim the fibres off the end of the brush in the cap, until there's about 2 - 3 remaining. One ends up with a fine 'applicator tip' and no cleaning hassle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bozemancreative 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 I use a bottle with a needle, that way my bodkin stays clean. They are cheep, I got mine for a few bucks at my local shop, but here is one online: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/griffin-applicator-jar-needle I have tried different applicator bottles and I always get the clogged tip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 For small drop applications, I use a bodkin and the polish bottle. I haven't trimmed the brush, as there are times I like the full amount of finish. As soon as I've applied the desired amount of finish to the fly, I close the bottle and stick the pin into the side of my chair cushion. The cushion has a nice glitter of tiny polish droplets. Once in a while, I'll rub those off, but they aren't that noticeable, and the needle is always clean. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 i use a bodkin. doesnt need to be cleaned out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 I use a Renzetti applicator bottle. Unscrew it and leave the top on the bottle. There is a cone shaped flexible plastic seal that sits on the bottle lip that seals the bottle while you tie so it limits evaporation. Lift the top off to apply cement and then place back on the bottle top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaydub 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 Push a steel wire through a cork. By pushing or pulling, you can adjust the length of the wire so that it only penetrates the cement by a small amount. That way it delivers a small drop. Readjust the wire as the cement level goes down. At the end of the tying session put the original cap back on the bottle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phg 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 I have been using something like this for years: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/crest-tools-head-cement-dispenser As long as the cap is screwed on tight, and you reinsert the pin after use, it shouldn't clog. I have had a new bottle "leak" when I used it the first time, but after letting it set, the glue filled in the threads and formed an air tight and water tight seal. The bottle itself is polyethylene, like a milk bottle, and nothing sticks to it, so the cap is still easy to remove when it's time to refill the bottle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralphs007 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2017 I have been using something like this for years: http://www.jsflyfishing.com/crest-tools-head-cement-dispenser As long as the cap is screwed on tight, and you reinsert the pin after use, it shouldn't clog. I have had a new bottle "leak" when I used it the first time, but after letting it set, the glue filled in the threads and formed an air tight and water tight seal. The bottle itself is polyethylene, like a milk bottle, and nothing sticks to it, so the cap is still easy to remove when it's time to refill the bottle. I use the same one and I like it. I don't like how head cement oozes out of the needle,so I take the lid off of the bottle and squeeze the bottle half way and then put the lid back on while holding the bottle in the squeezed position. This stops the head cement from oozing out of the needle,when I remove the inside needle. It probably wouldn't bother a normal person. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swampsinger 0 Report post Posted May 12, 2017 thanks for the info guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chase Creek 0 Report post Posted May 12, 2017 I'vealways used round toothpicks to apply Sally Hanson's. No bodkin to keep clean, just throw away the toothpick after each use, and CHEAP! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redietz 0 Report post Posted May 12, 2017 I'vealways used round toothpicks to apply Sally Hanson's. No bodkin to keep clean, just throw away the toothpick after each use, and CHEAP! Hackle stems are even cheaper. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Cummings 0 Report post Posted May 22, 2017 I found a tip that works great to clean the bodkin. Get a 35mm film canister those black plastic with lids and some steal wool. Fill it with the steal wool 3/4 full. Now when you use the Bodkin with Sally Hanson just push it in the steel wool a few times and cleaned up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deaddrifter 0 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 I like the applicator bottles and I've found I can control the amount more easily than with a bodkin. I will agree they will clog and become useless after a while but I can get a good year out of mine if I'm diligence about wiping off the tube after each use. For me spending a couple bucks a year on a new one is worth it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_Laidlaw 0 Report post Posted August 4, 2017 I use the Dynaking Cement Reservoir if I use anything, I normally use two whip finishes so don't bother using head cement, but the Dynaking is ok never seems to stick or clog up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites