Jump to content
Fly Tying

Cork poppers

Recommended Posts

More like simple functional CONSUMABLES than art.... just getting started with the SallyHansens and glitter powder. No air brush, million stipples, etc. The lil utility corks with minimal effort can make some easy poppers. Just cut angle face, emery the back for roundness, cut a slot, and glue on the hooks. 3,4 coats of Testors, let em dry in the sun. Sky is limit on tails, eyes, glitter....used the puffy paint eyes made on wax paper. Just using big needle/pliers getting legs thru the body...the bugs work better. Just like my boat not scared to make a hole in it for sumthin I need. Prolly skip weed guards..

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting these.

You just reminded me that I need to make some.

I have been collecting wine corks that I get from friends and family to make poppers.

They are mostly made of shredded cork and dense foam rubber.

Have you ever used these type corks?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I get the lii utility ones at HObbyLobby they are just right sizes with minimal to do. Too much to carve for me on the wine corks. Mat'l prolly fine. The foam "letters" @$1 at Wlmrt are easy to shape with tiger wheel on side grind but again more envolved to shape. Good for big stuff though



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Wine bottle poppers. Mount them on a small drill bit,stick them in a Dremel tool or a drill and get after it with some 100 grit sandpaper...Done in a couple minutes.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow you guys are doing some really nice work.

The bass are gonna love em.

Thanks for posting Mike I am going to have to give this a try.

I will post my efforts here.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wine Bottle Popper





Denduke I was about to put eyes on this popper and looked down at the pile of corks on my desk and saw this one.

Funny I had just commented on you turning Gnarly old corks into works of art...Ha.

After seeing that cork I decided to let this one be Gnarly by only putting on a translucent coating with silver flakes.




Did a float test and it sits about like this.

Finished weight is 3.6 grams, I hope to throw this tomorrow and see how it casts before making any more.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Been my experience and prolly just me but I try to keep the hook as low in the cork as possible. Mainly cuz I noticed when trying to "pic the big up" when casting the center position tends to make the bug "dig in"/ dive causing "extra work" casting. Th other thing is can decrease the bite opening of the hook. Yours don't have that problem at all. Never tried the dremel deal, looks good! Are you doing the hook thru a drilled hole, how is slot, cut?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind words guys.

Mike...you forgot and Gnarly too..Ha


Denduke I will watch for the "dig in" when I try it tomorrow.

Might need to add changing hook position lower on lip for Rev 2.

Hook was a 2/0 mustad large bass type that I made a custom shank for.




Stone Grinding Attachment:

I was at the hardware store yesterday, and on my way out I noticed the 11/16" stone grinding attachment.

It looked to be about the right size for the cupped face, and for $2.50 it was a no brainer.


Creating Cupped Face:

The stone worked like a charm on the rubber type corks as it comes off in string shaped chips fast (less than a minute) if you peck drill it.

If you drill without lifting often (peck drilling) if will melt into a lump and rip out big awfull gouges and your cork will be ruined.

It does leave a small lump in the center when done, but can be easily picked off in a few seconds with your thumb nail while it is still warm.

Using it on the natural cork is slow because it removes material a little at a time as a fine dust.

What is known as a carbide burr would be a better choice for natural cork.

Note: I used a drill press vise to hold the cork and never my fingers.


Nail Chuck:

I ground down a 3-1/2" nail to the shape in the picture with a disc sander to make a nail chuck.

The nail gets chucked in my drill press and the drill press can be used to press the nail into the cork or just use a hammer if you are using a dremmel.

The nail holds the cork while it is machined with files and sandpaper.

When filing I used two files. The one on the left prevents the nail/cork from flexing while pressure is applied with the one on the right.

An added bonus doing it this way, both files are cutting at the same time = twice as fast.


Popper Back/Belly Shape:

I hold the cork with a vise grip then used a disc sander set a 45 degrees to make the belly and back.

The mouth sits on the move-able table and the belly gets sanded first.

To sand the back the belly sits on the move-able table and the back gets sanded.


Attaching Hook:

Their isn't a hole or a slot needed for the hook.

Instead when the nail is driven into the cork to be used as a chuck a slit is created.

To insert the hook first lay down a tight thread base on the hook and apply a liberal amount of super glue to the thread base.

Then quickly insert the hook into the slit of the cork to the proper position and your done.

Comment: I stumbled upon using the slit to attach the hook by accident.

However using a slit to attach a hook is a good thing because no material is removed like it is for a hole.

Because of this I have noticed that the hook is attached very well, does not rotate at all and requires very little CA adhesive.


Note: If I move the hook closer to the bottom of the popper lip I will use the nail to create a new slit since it works so well.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Search wood cutting burrs, they come in many shapes and several types of teeth, some are carbide and some are steel. Some are listed as router bits.

I like a four-in-hand rasp for fast rough shaping.

if cutting the hook slot from the surface with knife or fine saw, the resulting slot/gap can be filled with CA and baking soda

Cut from the surface allows a maximum hook exposure and allows the hook to be at any angle to the body axis-=float angle of hook.

Using something like a 6" piece of coat-hanger through the center of the cork as a mandrel to chuck in the drill and letting the wire extend past the cork a few inches (think skewer as in shiskabob) the part sticking past can be rested against the bench as a support to keep cork against the rasp/file while turning (actually a turkey skewer could make a good mandrel)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...